mobythevan Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 I am very close to having this running correctly. I have spent the last two weeks working out issues with the new 029y4 code and the LS1 sensors. The car has been running, but the trigger inputs are not decoded correctly so RPM is not steady and therefore it doesn't run very good. I finally completed experiments last night that are very promising, so I am building a little extra circuitry and should be running 100%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted August 20, 2007 Author Share Posted August 20, 2007 Fixed 3 things and now I get steady rpm and the car is running pretty good. I am working on tuning now. I updated the settings in this thread to reflect what I found. 1. I had a bad opto transistor, it finally quit all together. 2. I had some settings wrong in megatune. 3. I had a bunch of higher frequency noise all over my MS setup. I added bypassing caps to the following wires on the relay board (.01uF and .22uF): battery 12volt, switched 12v, crank sensor input, cam sensor input, injector bank 1 control, injector bank 2 control. Now I am going to install the knocksense module to monitor while tuning. Also, I get a little bit of popping out the pipe at about 80kpa and 2000rpm. Could that happen if I'm too rich, it is definitely rich right now as I am just starting tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 Found the problem with the popping, I had a bad plug after all the troubleshooting. Replaced that last night and now it runs great. I think I am now comfortable in saying that the writeup in this thread works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 An update to the LS1 megasquirt notes was that the .01uf cap needs to be installed directly on pin 11 of the processor (to gnd). The tach input pin (14) already has a .01uf cap on it from the original circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240_to_miata Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 would you mind posting up your .msq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 OK, I'll try the attachement feature here. This zip files has two msq files, both work with HiRes10e code. That is what I run on all my cars right now. One msq is for gas, the other for e85. My car has 150lb injectors so you will need to change virtually all of the settings to make this files work. Warmups, accell, ASE, cranking PW, required fuel, etc. But at least it will give people a starting point. EDIT: I can't get the zip file to attach, the manager says upload failed every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240_to_miata Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 no problem. im familiar with Megasquirt, my miata is running MS1 right now. Just tryin to grab these for a buddy. My email is fendermaniac1988@gmail.com if you prefer to send it that way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 Ha ha, it worked today. Let me know if you can download them and view them. Also, I will be making some updates to the LS1 writeup soon. I am doing a second setup and I will refine the instructions and give some more details about the board mods I did and wiring harness color codes. This second setup is a v3.0 board so I will be able to provide instructions for both v2.2 and v3.0 mods. msqfiles.zip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240_to_miata Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 files opened perfectly are those really your AFR targets?????????????/ jeez and how much boost are you running.. your maps are only scaled to 7psi? Thanks for all your help. That writeup for the hardware assembly for v.30 board would save me A LOT of research and headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 I'm not running any boost, my turbo is bad. That was the AFR targets I entered to begin tuning, but never got to tuning yet because the turbo took a dump. What you don't like 11.0 everywhere? ha ha. That is why I never posted msq files before because they are in such a state of no tuning that somebody that doesn't know better is going to have problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 I am in the process of updating this thread because I have received a bunch of emails lately about megasquirt on the LS1. I moved the installation write up to the top post and also put the msq files in the top post. I will be updating for v3.0 board mods shortly. I also stuck this thread because I had more than one copy and I am just linking everyone here now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Did your stock Ls1 purge valve end up working ok for the Fidle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 No, it is too small and does not move enough air. I have had good luck with air valves from an rx7 that are as big as the brake booster line. Also, I am verifying the correct spark setup and trigger return tomorrow morning to remove the last quirks from my write up. I will update after the tests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 I was able to verify the new spark and coil wiring works. The trigger return also works. I have made the updates to the document in post #1 and attached the new msq files. Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 Made an update to crank sensor input mods on v2.2 boards. I did not include instructions for all the components that need to be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Made an update to crank sensor input mods on v2.2 boards. I did not include instructions for all the components that need to be removed. Any updates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 No updates, these instructions should still work for v2.2 and v3.0 MSI installs. I am waiting for my money situation to be right before drag racing my rx7 with LSx engine. I still run my car routinely to make sure everything is working, no other problems so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 I am in the process of building an LS1 setup for a MS2. Reason is that we have drivability problems on the turbo/LSxRX7 that I believe are related to a lack of ignition resolution. My configuration is pin compatible with the MS1 version covered here. Questions for Bryan: is the trigger angle between the LS1's cam signal and the desired trigger tooth 60 degrees? And should I continue to use rising and falling on the second trigger setup? MS2 doesn't have the trigger/return settings of the MS1. I have the LS1 MS2 setup with all outputs correct running on my Jim Stim - will be trying to get it going on the car in the next few days. When I get it working I'll post the V3.0 upgrade process from MS1 to MS2 and my msq. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30red240z Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 How can i swap the 24 tooth wheel into LS1 crank, or i have to install another wheel on the pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I saw on your other build thread that u have changed your cam and crank powers to 12v instead of the 5v first mentioned... Did you have to do anything special for this? What powers those? The relay board or are they straight to the Batt...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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