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street/track suspension


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what i'm looking to have is a suspension that will work well for both auto+ and drag strip usage. i'm looking at coil overs all the way around for better rim and tire sellection as well as function. what would you guys suggest. what pound springs,length,ect.......

 

who makes a good decently priced kit that is not trying to rip you off.

i'll have close to 600 hp and around 5oo lbtq so the suspension will really be put to it's test. i'm looking at already doing a five lug conv. and would also like to have bigger, better brakes.

 

as always any help is greatful 2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I'd talk to Mike SCCA or Ross about coil overs, they can give you suggestions. To me they both require different setups, but thats my opinion. As far as tires, sticky auto-x tires might work ok for drags, but personally I'd go with auto-x tires and get a pair of drag radials for when you want to go to the strip, again a opinion.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Well, here's my $.02 worth. Road course and drag strip suspensions differ greatly, so much so, that one is not really compatible for the other. IMHO, decide which you want as a priority over the other, and then go for that one. The same adjustable shocks may be the only thing that can praticably be used in both set-ups. Sway bars can be removed for drag applications, and you may try soft springs/stiff sway bars if you feel you must do it this way, but it's going to be a "jack of all trades, and a master of none" if you choose this idea of "one size fits all" suspension.

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more than likely it will be primarily used for the strieght line saturday night drags. i know that it's almost impossible to get the best of both worlds( :rolleyes: one can dream though).

 

i don't want to "loose" of a suspension for drag race only. but one that will hook up good and have relativily good "street" manners for the occational curvy roads. i don't need it to handle like a ferrari on the curves but i would like to feel safe.

 

i plan on using 17x8 rims with 275's on the rear and 245's on the front. the way i figure (and im probly totally wrong) is that the increased contact patch of the tires should help out in the handling over the stock setup.

 

i would really like is to find out what type of setups people on this sight are using and how they perform. ie spring lengths, lbs , ect....

 

i know that with the hp my motor is putting out that it should be in the mid to low 10's in the 1/4 mile. i would be willing to give up a few tenths in lew of safty on the street.

 

by the way . i went to the dyno yesterday with my friends motor which is almost identicle to mine and it belted out 590hp @ 6500 and 511 lbft @ 5500 through mufflers. with a little bit more tuning it should hit that 600 hp mark we were hoping for. bonk.gifbonk.gif2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gifrockon.gifhail.gif

 

and again thanks for the help

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Your tire size selection will build in understeer for the occaisional autox and track days. With the torque you are planning on you should be able to use the throttle to drive around it.

 

I suggest the following if your car weighs around 2,500 lbs or less.

 

Front

 

Shorten the front struts 1.5".

Install Tokico Illumina Toyota MR2 struts.

Install 10" long, 2.5" diameter Hyperco or Eibach springs with a 200 lb. in. rate.

Adjust for a ride height of 6" measured att he front of the rocker panel.

Install a 1" (25mm) diameter front anti-roll bar.

Install camber plates or slot the strut towers.

Poly bushings all around and offset bushings in the lower control arm.

1.5 to 2 degrees negative camber.

6 degrees positive caster.

1/16" toe in.

 

Rear

 

Shorten the rear struts (I forgot exactly how much).

Install Tokico Illumina 240Z front struts.

Install 10" long, 2.5" diameter Hyperco or Eibach springs with a 225 lb. in. rate.

Adjust to a 6.5" ride height measured at the rear of the rocker panel.

Install a 5/8" diameter rear anti-roll bar.

Install camber plates or slot the strut towers.

Poly bushings all around and offset bushings in the lower control arm inner pivots.

1.5 degrees negative camber.

1/16" toe in.

Some kind of LSD (no welded or locker).

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I've been running around for 400+ miles on an eyeball suspension alignment (going to fix that this weekend). Well, 2 degrees neg camber on the rear means not much straight line traction!

 

I think you really need to consider camber when drag racing, to get the tire/wheel perpendicular to the ground (i.e., 0 camber) when traction is the worst. That means in a bump suspension position in the rear.

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