first drive today WOW

[MaTTSuN]

ok i got all the wires away made sure it did not leak anything

took her for the first MS drive down my street

first off i cant rev it out since my tach dose not work hehe so i prob reved it to like 4k rpm

for those who dont know thins is my set-up

stock 81 l28T with the crank sensor on the front pully

240sx throttle body

stock fuel injectors

3 inch Down pipe amd exaust on the stock T3 turbo

MS controlling spark and fuel

metros MSQ

 

wow as soon as it makes boost about (8psi) it sounds like a jet engine wow its loud i have a ebay greedy knock off BOV and it sounds pretty cool 2

im in love all over again

 

so the only problem i have is when i rev the car sometimes it shuts off unless i touch the throttle a little bit befor it dies

 

i figure its sometihng with the TPS but i havent had a chance to put a computer on it and see what its doing

anyone have any ideas?

 

other than that it seams to be running good

 

also i have a wideband hooked up and was wondering what i should be shooting for to get this thing to pass smog? im going to put a permit on it for the weekend and get this bad boy on the road, is a leaner mixture better or should i be going for stoich? or maybe just shy..i know if i get it close it will be a hell of allot better then the stock system

 

oh yeah and how do i get my tach back? should i just hook the 2 wires that were on the coil in the first place or will that mess up my MS ? i know one is power and im not to keen on putting that on since the ms is controlling the spark

 

and OH YEAH hehe when i start the car and the ms is kicking the coil it seams to slow the starter allot and its a little rough about it, is that normal?

 

thanks allot guys

pics are comming soon as i clean it all up

MAtt

[naviathan]

For the tach reconnect the blue wire that was attached to the negetive side of the coil.

To pass smog you should be looking for a 14.7 AFR which would be a good clean burn.

The car shutting off when coming off the throttle probably has something to do with your idle air control.

Check your coil with a multimeter. I believe the primary windings (probes on + and - terminals) should be around 1.02 Ohm and the secondary windings (negetive and center) should be between 8.5k and 12.4k. That's just out of memory so the numbers might not be completely right, but they're close. If it checks out have your battery tested. You may have a bad cell.

[cygnusx1]

Congrats. As far as idle air controllers go. I dont really see the need for the added complexity. I use the stock air bypass valve with a 12v source to heat it up and bingo the car warms up at about 1500rpms and gradually drops to a steady idle as it warms up. No fuss no mess. Stalling and stumbling are going to happen until you really get your timing, and VE, and warmup maps dialed in tight to your specific engine. You will have a tough time getting the engine to idle smoothly at any mixtures above 14:1. Mine idles smoothly only at about 12.3:1.

[naviathan]

I'm a little curious why the table generators for advance and VE tables don't work right in MegaTune? Everytime I run the numbers it comes up with an advance table that's just horribly wrong.

[mario_82_ZXT]

I'm a little curious why the table generators for advance and VE tables don't work right in MegaTune? Everytime I run the numbers it comes up with an advance table that's just horribly wrong.

 

I believe they were designed for N/A applications.

Even B&G recommend to only use them as a last resort.

 

Mario

[naviathan]

I'm running N/A and they still don't show up right. The VE tables come close depending on your required fuel, but the spark advance tables NEVER calculate right.

[MaTTSuN]

thanks allot guys ill try all that today after work

i dont have a idle air controller i took everything off the engine

just a throttle body to controll air

i think i put the blue wire to the positive side oops hehe

well im going to be late for work if i dont get on my 929 and rip outa here have a good day everyone

 

Matt

[naviathan]

Have a safe trip. Don't worry about the blue wire on the positive side, it's not going to hurt anything. I did the same thing then realized my tach didn't work and switched it back.

[randy 77zt]

i have a/c on mine -run my idle at 1000 rpm.but i have old ms 2.2 that cant control idle and i dont feel like upgrading.you might need a cat convertor to pass -but you will probably need time on the machine to tune for smog.if you get too lean or put too much timing on you will raise nox.is your wideband used for an input to the ms?the ms can be turned to autotune and run on the a/f table-but it will run better with a good fuel map loaded.i have been using the megalogviewer program to rewrite my fuel map and a datalog run.it will correct your fuel map from a 1/2 hour datalog.you can watch it rewite the fuel map while it replays your datalog at realtime speed.

[cygnusx1]

i have a/c on mine -run my idle at 1000 rpm.but i have old ms 2.2 that cant control idle and i dont feel like upgrading.you might need a cat convertor to pass -but you will probably need time on the machine to tune for smog.if you get too lean or put too much timing on you will raise nox.is your wideband used for an input to the ms?the ms can be turned to autotune and run on the a/f table-but it will run better with a good fuel map loaded.i have been using the megalogviewer program to rewrite my fuel map and a datalog run.it will correct your fuel map from a 1/2 hour datalog.you can watch it rewite the fuel map while it replays your datalog at realtime speed.

 

I also have AC so I idle it at about 1000. I am also addicted to MegalogViewer and it's table analyzer. I love watching it go over the drive data and update the VE tables. It works very well. Try it.

[MaTTSuN]

got the decel turning off problem fixed yesterday

got my tach working

but my wide band is not reading right

when i start up it says 14.7 but then when it starts reading it reads 4.8 i figured it might be the wrong lead off the LC-1 so i swapped them

but by then i unhooked the computer so didnt get a chance to see if it worked

one of my injector hoses started to leak so i couldnt tune anymore

im going to use my palm today and see how that works need to pick up an adapter for the serial port then ill plug it in

 

is one of the outputs on the LC1 for narrow band and the other for wideband?

or is there something im missing for the tuning on MS

 

oh yeah and the timing reads like 20 deg advaced when idle and jumps up to like 40 when i rev it... is that good? or normal?

[cygnusx1]

There are different outputs from the LC1. You need to use the one that's preprogrammed to run 0-5volts. I think it's the brown wire. Also make sure the ground for the sensor is very good and wired according to the LC-1 manual. Don't forget to setup Megatune in the Configurator to use the LC-1 0-5v sensor.

 

Yes one of the outputs emulates a narrowband sensor. I believe the brown wire is your wideband output (0-5v). They can be reprogrammed but it's easier to just use the right wire.

[naviathan]

Not sure on the timing, sounds alright though. For the palm, make sure to get a good serial to USB. I use a Belkin that I picked up at Circuit City for $20. No problems with it at all. As for your WB, the sensor could be bad. I've done a bit of reading and it seems they're quite sensitive and if your EGTs get too high it can burn them up. Check your heater connections and also let it run for a bit and see if it starts to correct any. Otherwise you'll probably need a new sensor.

[MaTTSuN]

i have a cradle for the palm im just going to run that prob tape it down to it so it doesnt move around. the wide band is new so it should be fine, i think it was the wrong wire but i didnt have a chance to check it again since one of my fuel injectors was leaking... ill try it again today after work when i put a new hose on that injector.