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Update on Project 240Z Turbo


S30TRBO

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After this past weekend with some long hard days the motor is 90% done. New brakes are installed, clutch, and brake master cylinders, TWM ball joints and e-brake cables are in.

 

All that is left is 280ZX alternator conversion, Diff is almost in, trans, OS Giken clutch and oil cooler.

 

Thanks to Amy, Todd, and Tony.

 

Here are the pics tell me what you think?

 

http://www.putfile.com/240ztt/images/139271

 

Here is a taste:

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Well I have been on the phone for the last few days with Todd. Here is what's going on:

 

~ Need e-brake L brackets for the 240SX rear calipers (ordered from Nissan $25) I guess when I got my cores from the j/y I remember unbolting that bracket and leaving it. :bonk:

 

~ R200 diff in, but he had a bitch of a time getting the left CV axle in and then the right he said no f-in way. A quick email to Ross (M/M) and he called Todd and gave him the pointer of compressing the suspension while on the lift to make the axles go in easier.

 

~ Re bent the brake master lines to allow the ZX master to work. A side note: on the 240Z the front reservoir is for the front brakes and the rear is for the rear drum brakes. On the ZX they are reversed front is rear and rear is front. When upgrading to rear calipers first take the guts out of the proportioning valve in the rear as it is setup for drum brakes. This allows more fluid to flow for the rear disc brakes.

 

~ Euro pulley w/ SDS magnets on it was cracked from the key slot back. Todd said the crank bolt hole was scratched up leading him to believe the crank bolt backed out and chewed the key slot thus cracking the pulley at some point. I bought this used w/ the SDS system from Austin I bet he didn't even know it was cracked, not blaming you man. Using stock pulley until the motor is broken in and switch to EFI w/ SDS w/ Rebello single groove pulley or another Euro pulley if I can find one.

 

Other than those few set backs the motor should be in today and after the 20 minute cam break-in session I should be good to go. He plans on keeping it until labor day weekend and drive it around to make sure there will be no issues with everything. Wish me luck!! :cool:

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Lookin' good! The work looks good so far and the color choices (hammer finish?) for the backing plates and the rear brackets was a good choice--certainly sets off the red calipers. Nice! Undercarriage looks equally clean as well, almost detailed, but hard to tell from the photos.

 

Davy

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Davy,

 

Thanks! It's called silver vein hammertone. Black and silver mixed in a rough texture. I did the exterior of the 280Z stub axles, M/M rear disc brackets to match the existing rear suspension powdercoating. Entire Z was Ziebarted, underbelly is still that way until paint.

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I'm curious about something. Which engine is going in? Is it an L28?

 

Whenever I can buy the Z i want (should be able to within the next month) I'm planning on going 1 of 2 routes. One will be a 3.0 stroker, the other would be an L24 turbo. ^^

But i've no clue about what sort of power i could get RELIABLY out of a DD 3.0 or a DD l24 turbo.

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I'm curious about something. Which engine is going in? Is it an L28?

 

Yea L28ET in n/a form NOW for break-in.

 

 

Whenever I can buy the Z i want (should be able to within the next month) I'm planning on going 1 of 2 routes. One will be a 3.0 stroker, the other would be an L24 turbo. ^^

But i've no clue about what sort of power i could get RELIABLY out of a DD 3.0 or a DD l24 turbo.

 

DD? Daily Driver. Well if you are talking a 3.0 liter stroker n/a or turbo is one thing. An L24 turbo would be neat both would be reliable but the stroker would cost more.

 

Questions for you are how fast do you want to go and most important how deep is that bank account? Next what is your horsepower goal? This will get you started and start planning a realistic goal.

 

3.0 liter stroker and L24 turbo is only the tip of the iceberg. There are so many other combos out there for horsepower and reliability and it all goes back to the money factor again. Tell me about it shhhezzzz :rolleyesg

 

I would start by searching the website and if you don't find your answer then post it in the appropriate forum.

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oh, for price, i'm not quite sure. I'm planning on saving at least 5-6k though, but that's my own personal estimate, without truly knowing the cost to build a 3.0

I'm actually looking for around 240-250+ whp

Enough to make you realize it's got some power, but not so much that it becomes a handful ^^

As far as how fast, probably mid 13's if i were to drag race it. but i'd rather set it up more for autox/track racing more than straight drag racing. If I went with the 3.0 I'd keep it n/a, but if I went with the L24 it would be turbo. Of course, I have to get the car first ^^

Money doesn't matter to me, since i'm starting from 0 i'm going to save up more than I need to build the engine. 5k should be enough to build a decent engine though, right?

If I were to go with the l24 turbo route, i'd like to keep it carburated, mostly because I don't like dealing with electronics (I come from a 60's vw background) And of course, i'd like to stay away from stock internals. My original plan was to just rebuild the engine with beefier, lighter parts, then turbo it in the future.

oh, and DD=daily driver lol

 

Anyways, i sort of want to just stick with the 2 platforms, mostly because those are the two engines I'd want to do the most. I'm also not the best as far as engine builds go (I've built 2 vw engines in the past for my dad's friend, my dad wanted to see if I could do it, both engines SHOULD still be running if the owners are taking care of them)

I suppose the biggest problem is my lack of tools. I suppose I could ask a shop for help with building the shortblock though.

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Awsome work and pics[/Quote]

 

 

Thanks man!!

 

keep the updates coming!

 

 

You got it..

 

ITS RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mparty:

 

 

One problem.

 

I need a '72 or later brake booster. I have an early 240Z (short booster rod) w/ combination '79 280ZX master cylinder. The '72 and later brake booster has a longer (adjustable rod) which will allow the rod to go further into the master plunger which will allow me to me... oh I don't know.. to have a brake pedal again. Now it goes to the floor and barely stops.

 

Philadelphia PA is hoarding all 9 of them all but I will have one in the next day or two. If anyone has one in the VA area let me know.

 

 

Thanks,

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I'm actually looking for around 240-250 whp

 

L28, cam, Z Therapy SU's or L28ET and turn the boost up to 10psi.

 

 

5k should be enough to build a decent engine though, right?

 

That will get you started. If you are talking about using stock internals, manifolds and upgrade turbo... yes.

 

Just in comparison I have over that just in machine work and the bottom end ONLY!

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L28, cam, Z Therapy SU's or L28ET and turn the boost up to 10psi.

 

 

 

 

That will get you started. If you are talking about using stock internals, manifolds and upgrade turbo... yes.

 

Just in comparison I have over that just in machine work and the bottom end ONLY!

 

ah, ok, for the l24 that was my plan. stock internals and manifold and a turbo.

the car I want actually doesn't have the stock head. the guy said the one on it screwed up a couple valves in it, and instead of fixing the stock E31 head, he put a head that has less compression in it, but at the same time, he said it gave better performance.

Ok, say I use stock internals on a 3.0, how much would I be looking at with that setup as far as costs go?

Luckily for me, a 70 240z is my dream car, so I'll stick with it and probably build several engines for it throughout my life ^^ I appreciate all the help.

 

Anyways, for the L24 turbo, I'll probably just freshen up the engine I have with new bearings and rings, get everything re balanced if necessary. That hopefully would save me some costs on the turbo route, ya think?

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Ok, say I use stock internals on a 3.0, how much would I be looking at with that setup as far as costs go?

 

There is no such thing as a stock internal 3 liter. You need to gather parts which will equal increasing the stroke. Try this: http://zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/3031FAQ.html

 

 

Anyways, for the L24 turbo, I'll probably just freshen up the engine I have with new bearings and rings, get everything re balanced if necessary. That hopefully would save me some costs on the turbo route, ya think?

 

It is a good thing to do but you need another head assuming it's a E31 (not ideal for turbo app) you need an E88 or P90. Now if those will work on the L24 is another question you need to ask around. As far as "saving costs" if you cut to many corners you will end up breaking something and starting over again.

 

Like I said have a plan, RESEARCH, RESEARCH, ask questions in the appropriate forum. You got a long way to go my friend, take your time and be patient. Think 8-12 steps ahead before doing something. I have been collecting parts for 7 years for my build.

 

If you have any other questions email me: a240ztt@yahoo.com and if I can't answer you I can try to point you in the right direction.

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oh, no no no,i meant going with parts that would be stock on the different engines, instead of aftermarket hi performance parts. I know i'm going with the ld28 crank and 240z rods, but i'm not quite sure which pistons to go with. i'll need 88mm pistons with the right pin hight to get me in the neighborhood of 9:1 compression ratio. a lot depends on which head the 240 i'm getting has. I'll have to wait and see which one it has. (is there a stamping on the head for the model?)

 

I know as a fact the car i'm getting doesn't have the stock head. the head on it gives less compression, but apparently it performs a bit better, so i would have to assume it means a bigger combustion chamber with larger valves. the E88 doesn't have much bigger valves compared to the E31, so I'm thinking it might be an N42/P90

funny thing, the site you gave me, i've had bookmarked for a month ^^

I'm not really looking for cost savings, but if the car i'm getting has a good set of internals, i'll rebuild the engines and put new rods in it (i've never liked the thought of putting used rods in an engine) and have the head rebuilt. i'll deffinetly get stronger rods if i can find them.

thanks for the help. I've already decided to do this engine build in the next couple years. that way i can save up a massive amount of money to build a nice l24 turbo

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~Drivers side freeze plug is leaking.

 

~Nissan Comp oil pan gasket is leaking too. Bolts and have retorqued. Might have to put in a stock gasket. Oil pan is straight and I have all new hardware too.

 

 

Picked up my new '72 brake booster yesterday. Getting close!!

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~Oil pan gasket leak fixed. Stock one in place! The Nissan Comp would not seal WTF :rolleyesg

 

~'72 Brake booster installed. I now have brakes YEAH!!!

 

~Drivers side front Freeze plug #2 LEAKING but barely :fmad:

I guess it's time for a steel plug. Todd is going to check the hole again and see if there is any burrs in there. What else can it be? This is the second brass plug? :hs:

 

 

Now for the good news. MORE PICTURES!!!:

 

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More pics here: http://www.putfile.com/240ztt/images/142812

 

I took her for a ride around the block at 10 degrees timing and it was really good. Todd took it out earlier in the week at 30 degress and said Holy SHEOT!! Now she sits at 10 degrees. Hard to keep her under 4000-4500 rpms. The clutch grips hard and you have to be easy and rev a little to get going into first, that is the price you pay for a twin plate. No chatter yet guess that will come when the clutch is broken in more. :-D

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Headlight and Parking light upgrade harness came in yesterday. I would recommend these to anyone in addition to the ZX alternator upgrade on an early Z Cars. Money well spent!!

 

Headlight Upgrade Harness: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20365

Dave Irwin said "You'll see the OEM style plugs that'll plug right into your Z. It IS a Plug & Play unit so there is NO cutting or drilling needed to install the harness. The HLH (headlight harness) is $125 and worth every penny, when you consider the fact that you'll no longer have over 20 amps running thru the fusebox and combo switch and your wiring will never over heat again. My relay harness (HLH) reduces the amperage thru the fusebox and combo switch by more than 98%. The relays only require 0.230 amps to operate and transfer voltage from the battery to the headlights."

 

 

Parking light Upgrade Harness:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20365

Dave Irwin said "Normally the 3rd fuse down on the right, in your fusebox, melts due to overheating from all the draw thru the parking light circuit. This is also the cause of most Combo switch failures. The PLH also only requires 0.30 amps to operate and is also a Plug & Play unit. Just uplug your combo switch, plug in my "T" harness, mount the relay under the steering column and run the supplied power wire from the battery to the relay socket.

 

Both harness have inline fuse holders and use common 30/40 relays that can be replaced at your local auto parts store. PLH is $40"

 

Contact David at wolfin32z@yahoo.com tell him I sent you from hybridz. He normally hangs out on classiczcars "Zs-ondabrain".

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After a very long weekend she made it back home safe and sound. She ran great and it was hard to keep her under 4500rpm but I did. Varying my speed, watching my R’s, listening for noises. It was a nice 3 hour ride home.

 

I think the SU's are running a little rich. On deceleration or shifting into 5th sometimes I get a little flame shooting out the exhaust pipe. I think I might turn them 1/4 turn forward.

 

I am not that much worried. Soon enough I will have something similar to this on her, this is only a rough draft: Whacha think?

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I need a few things if anyone out that has them:

 

~New diff strap

~Speedo gauge. I really only need the two phillips head screws that holds the face plate on.

 

I will get pictures up as soon as I clean her up (not much w/ faded paint) more or less to get the bugs off from the ride home but more important once I get the Wats back on her. I had some loaner Enkei 92’s 215/60/15. Thanks daddsun.

 

Pretty soon I will be unloading a ton of parts. Here is a small list for ya’ll before they go up on Ebay. This is a small list of what I have taken pics of right now:

 

http://www.putfile.com/240ztt/images/143913

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