streeteg Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 So I pulled the stock manifold and transferred everything using common sense... as well as the pictures out of the japanese texted directions.... however there are a few hoses that I need to hook up and I am lost. First and Foremost the TPS sensor. pics up RB TPS Q45 TPS The stock harness does not adapt to the Q 45 TPS so I need to cut and hardwire it looks like. Anyone done this before? Next I have a few hoses that I can not figure out where they go.... I know coolant lines pass through the throttle body, but anyone with experience who can chime in that would be great! Thanks Eric UPDATE: Coolant Sender Now after following your advice this is what I did.... Took "Coolant Line" and attached it to the hardline going to the turbo behind the head. Capped off Bleeder Valve Ran the PCV system to the bigger port on the GIM Here is what she looks like Pre-tuck of fuel lines, and all vacuum hoses. All ports on the Intake mani will be used from a vacuum standpoint: AVC-R BOV Fuel Rail PCV System Brake Master Cylinder Now finally--- I need to know how bad this is--- which I am assuming it isnt horrible--- but Just incase I need to order my injectors early LMK... This is what I found when I took off my rail- 1 was already like it and 2 were hanging on by nothing when I got to them so they eventually came off before they went into the head: The right is for comparison--- Are they stabilizers? Crucial to fuel control? They dont look THAT important but I would rather be safe then sorry....As the cold approaches the only thing I need the car running for is to make it to my parents storage garage. Thanks again Guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple B Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 yeah i would like to know this as well i have the same manifold and will be buying the throttle body soon can't you just use the q45 TPS or are they that different of a setup wiring and signal wise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 Not sure--- Although I thought i read somewhere that the rb and Q's Throttle position sensors were interchangeable... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 found this on another site. If you can cross-ref with RB wiring diag (maybe I can do it for you on lunch at work), then you can do this easily. Unless you need a signal conditioner. Not sure why though. Red is the 5 volt input wire White is the TPS signal wire Black is the sensor return wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 found this on another site. If you can cross-ref with RB wiring diag (maybe I can do it for you on lunch at work), then you can do this easily. Unless you need a signal conditioner. Not sure why though. Red is the 5 volt input wire White is the TPS signal wire Black is the sensor return wire thank would be awesome--- I always thought it bolted right up--- i guess I got a different year? -E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 sorry my lunch break whizzed by and went straight into my belly i think if you refer to the wires on the MAF that you have and the one in the service manual, you can probably figure it out pretty easy if it tells you what they're for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 Where can I find this RB wiring diagram?.... I cant be the only one who has had this problem.... its such a common upgrade.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple B Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 i found a pdf service manual online for the R33 family and it has all the wiring diagrams i will have to track the link down and see if it still works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcar? Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 if you pm me your e-mail address i can send you the R33 service man. i have it on a pdf file Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 don't make it harder on yourself. use the q45 tps it plugs right up, the wires are the same. nice top hat valve cover ...cover btw =D good job on going with an actual GReddy and not a freddy i love mine i'm happy i did. you can call mike at top hat and ask but i got mine from balanced performance, Gizmo makes it, it's a phenolic (plasticbasically) intake manifold gasket, it reduces heat transfer from the head to the manifold, helping keep intake air temps a little lower, it's bout $80-90. as far as the coolant lines going through the throttle body, nissan actually did that to lower nox by raising intake air temp thus lowering the air's density in the intake = rich = less power. you don't have to cap em off either, the vacuum bungs you do have to cap off and make sure you put zip ties on every vacuum cap/hose. your idle air control valve 3 bolts never line up, so you may have to wallow out where the bolts go through on the iac itself, i'd definately not try to tap new threads into your pirdy new manifold. i myself just plated off my iac but before i got power fc i wish i hadn't as the idle was fubar at times. the q45 also has a little wax element built into it that will kick open the throttle plate a hair in order to raise the idle when the car is cold, so since you won't have coolant flowing through your tb heating the wax up, you may have to back the little screw out a tiny bit to close your throttle plate a little more so your idle's not too high. other than that just make sure you put teflon thread tape on all your bungs and be careful installing your coolant temp sender and sensor that you don't strip you new mani. use permitex GREY on your little coolant tube that runs underneath it, and while you're in there and already have the coolant all drained, might wanna just stick in a new thermostat as all rb's came factory with brown ass coolant (NOT) haha make sure you cap off that big ass vacuum bung that's kind of inbetween the runners for cylinders 5 & 6 on the underbelly of the plenum. i couldn't see it and i already had everything hooked up that i was gonna hook up so i was like "wtf, why is my idle 2500 rpm, oh duh" it'll save you time to plan out which bung you're gonna use for what before you end up bolting it up to the head. sorry for getting long winded, good luck man =] Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 wow i didn't look at ur picture long enough, my bad. the hose coming off your valve cover goes to your pcv valve. plug that into one of the bigger bungs on your intake manifold, if you end up breaking the rubber grommet that the pcv valve sits in in the valve cover, it interchanges with early 90 hondas i believe so that' shouldn't be a big deal. the coolant bleeder line is retarded cap that off. the coolant hose in the back should be the the other coolant hose to your turbo, it should go to a hard metal pipe that runs behind the head...i can't c your turbo set up, but that's why that's there. you need to hook up your fuel pressure regulator's vacuum bung straight to it's own bung on your manifold and try not to T into it unless your boost controller/other crap specifically tells u too. my throttle body is flipped the other way around, i know there's a place on the manifold where you can put a throttle cable bracket but because of my throttle cable's length as well as room in the engine bay i opted to make my own bracket and flip the throttle body so the cable goes on the other side. make sure you cap all the vacuum bungs on your throttle body, like those 2 that stick out East and West what you labeled as "hose coming out of the sensor on the intake manifold" you're gonna need to put a bung on your intercooler piping so it can get air BEFORE the throttle body. basically it goes to your idle air control valve air regulator valve which regulates the air that goes to your idle air control valve, hence the redundant ass name....so when you get your intercooler pipe redone make sure you put a bung for that hose in there so it can get air in front of the throttle body, you can see on the stock L shaped intercooler pipe that big bung right after the stock bov, that's where it went previously. good luck man Dave =] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted September 15, 2007 Author Share Posted September 15, 2007 thank you for the awesome answers! I am gonna start to do the piping very soon--- just have to make a few cuts to get the intercooler to fit--- ( have a 1 piece front end) ....Cant wait to get it all hooked up... Just a few more things... Where does that turbo coolant line connect to? I don't see any openings for it on any of the hoses... Can I just remove the bleeder valve and extend the hose to make them connect? The TPS sensor is like 2 female ends when I tried to get it to hook up--- I will take a pic Also---My stock manifold was drilled and tapped for a coolant temp sensor-- but I really dont want to tap the greddy for the sensor---where is the next best place to put it? and finally.... did you have to extend your fuel lines? Cause it seems mind arent long enough to make it with the greddy--- -E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 yes i had to extend my fuel lines. when you get fuel line make sure you tell them you want FUEL INJECTION hose, it's more expensive but it'll safely handle the higher pressure of a fuel injected system (especially a walboro) when they sell fuel line it's typically meant for carbeurated cars (low fuel pressure like 4-10psi). now i've never busted a fuel hose from the regular cheap fuel hose but it's kind of something you don't wanna have happen to you for a couple extra bucks. i don't know what turbo set up you have, but the stock rb turbo has a coolant hose on each side of the turbo, the top of the turbo is the oil feed, the bottom is the oil drain. (off memory and could be vice versa) but i believe the hard coolant pipe towards the exterior of the turbo ends up going to a banjo bolt and into the block, and on the interior (inbetween the turbo and the block) is the hard line that runs behind the head and ends up going to that hose we're talking about. for a time i just capped it off and didn't have coolant flowing through my turbo, but when i got my ball bearing turbo, i bought steel braded lines and earl's fittings and made sexy hoses to cool the turbo since bb turbos don't have much oil flowing through them anyways, and i'd like to have SOMETHING to cool that $$$$ puppy off. basically you can cap it off too, or run it to your coolant bleeder it doesn't matter, capped would probably get rid of some more clutter. i ran my fuel lines under the manifold and then they come up and into the rail from underneath. fyi the fuel line that comes off of the fuel pressure regulator is always the return hose (the one that doesn't have the filter on it). your tps, if your rb harness has the 3 pin grey oval plug, and there's no chord like that on your tps, you're gonna have to buy a tps for a q45. that tps you have by your q45 looks like it's for an automatic, as one plug is for throttle position %, and the other is for the kickdown, so when it's at wide open throttle it downshifts the auto tranny so it takes off. i guess get a tps for a Manual q45??? or possibly try to get an early early model one when nissan was using different connectors. my GReddy has 2 holes tapped for the sender and sensor right behind the water neck for the upper radiator hose... do you have any coolant pipes hooked up on each side of your turbo? what turbo are you using? good luck man, lemme know Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 ZUL8r.... the coolant sender pics are attached above. I have a custom dash and autometer water temp guage--- and was wondering if I could tap off of one of those? On the old manifold the installer of the guage tapped right next to those 2 and added an aftermarket valve.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 just curious.. why do the connectors matter at all? if they have a pigtail that hangs off them, you could always get a weather-pack connector and just re-solder the connections where they need to go. Heck you could even get the harness side of the auto TPS and wire that in. unless the auto tps doesn't work at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 cool cool, ya that's what i meant by where to put the coolant sender/sensor. the coolant temp sensor (ecu) should have a crush washer that seals it, the sender seals by the threads, recommend thread tape for that. please jesus tuck your pcv hose hahaha, and the other big hose that comes out of the bung on the top looks like it's going in that direction but just making sure, that's what's gonna supply vacuum to your brake booster, make sure your one way check valve is good, it keeps boost from going to the booster, and only lets vacuum through. if you don't have a one way check valve in there you're gonna boost your brake fluid out of your master cylinder in a mile or two and you won't have brakes once the fluid in the resivoir is empty. looks good bro, take it easy =] Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 What does a one way valve look like? haha The last thing i need is to be boostin and lose my brakes lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcar? Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 well photobucket is down i guess so i cant post a picture of one so copy and paste http://www.gadgetjq.com/cc_check_valve.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 exactly =] it's got a nipple on each end and sits on the driver's side of the hood latch if memory serves. kinda glad i mentioned that check valve now lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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