Jump to content
HybridZ

l26 is mean to me


PapaSmurf

Recommended Posts

my l28 was very tired I was getting low compression on all cylinders and I was tired of puttin money into it. I decided for now I'd go out and buy another one that was running at least and was cheap. So I went out and bought an l26 with an e88 head for 100 bucks and installed it. I got it to start up and putter around the block but the timing was way off. I checked the belt and sure enough it was slightly stretched. I replaced the belt and it won't even start now. There's a valve noise sounds like it's knockin a bit while I try to turn it over. I know I got that belt on right, I even had a (professional) mechanic come and check my work. Could it be that having such bad timing for a long time screwed up the valves and they just need to be adjusted? My plug wires aren't in the best of shape, my Taylors (lousy investment) just died and I'm using the stock ones that could be part of the problem. I'm just hopin for some insight. thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had the same problem bro! sounded like i was running a diesel tractor!!! all i did was adjust the valves to spec once when cold and a second check after warm up. after that ran really smooth. chances are if the person you bought it from did not change the timing belt for so long that it stretched what makes you think he did any type of maintenance on it at all... good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators
it's a CHAIN jsm and everyone knows what I'm talking about so don't get your panties in a bunch

 

 

Papasmuf,

Take it easy there fella. Not everyone knows what you were talking about. If you go back and read your post, you specifically quoted a “belt” not once, not twice, but all three times you made mention of the part and even claimed the “belt had stretched”! Being somewhat versed in Datsun L-series, my first thoughts in reading your post was what belt is he referring to? You wrote it, these guys “politely” asked for clarification. No need to get huffy at someone else for your terminology swap.

 

Back to your dilemma. A few things come to mind. One in particular being as you replaced the timing chain, that means you pulled the front cover. Is there a chance that when you reinstalled the quill shaft and distributor that it could be out of time now?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's a CHAIN jsm and everyone knows what I'm talking about so don't get your panties in a bunch

 

No offense intended. I don't know everything, but I thought maybe you had a special motor or something. You never know, anything is possible with the talent on this site.

 

You seemed very intent on it being a belt, thus the question.

 

And leave my panties alone, that's no ones business but mine! :wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was just jokin around not being huffy, the chains stretch (thats why there is an adjustment for tension on the cam sproket) it was adjusted already on the 3rd pin hole. I adjusted the valves and set the crank to tdc and come to find out i had somehow put the distributor gear shaft on 90 degrees off (what i get for letting people help) i got her started but it ran poorly. Turns out the timing chain was a tooth off hopefully ill have her running today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I corrected the timing chain, it's now exactly right. The iginition timing is correct as far as I can tell also. However for some strange reason she'll start and try to catch unless I advance the timing and then she'll ping and knock loudly until I rev the engine to 2-3k rpm. New plugs, new cap and rotor, new oil, new everything. The only thing I would suspect would be the vacuum advance on the distributor. I reused the 260z distributor because it has dual pickups and I had to rewire it but it works great. The only thing I am not sure of is the vacuum advance. Any thoughts would a bad advance cause this? Also another question the distributor shaft when properly placed should be straight up and down at tdc with the fat side on the right facing towards the transmission.. correct? thats what puts the rotor on the #1 cylinder point, or should I retard it a bit? Thanks for all your help guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...