REISHOKIN240Z

Interested in purchasing a pair if your still producing... or have any left.

TOOOOO funny! lol:burnout:

NOT REALLY BUDDY! JUST WOULD NOT WORK THE FIRST TIME FOR SOME REASON.

Volks FRONT: 17X8JJ +37 TIRES: 225/45ZR17 REAR: 17X9JJ +37 TIRES: 255/40ZR17

i agree with randy cutting corners is going to cost you more in the long run. if you dont resurface the flywheel you wont break the clutch in properly. if you actually have the flywheel out sometimes you can see grooves from the old clutch and even hot spots. a local shop will do this for about 25 to 30 dollars depending on where you go. it just to make sure you get the proper break in and surface contact. and remember 500 miles of normal driving to break it in! that means reving to 6000 with your boost up to 15psi at every stop and dropping the clutch!!! joke joke dont do that! hehe

anywho... Papasmurf just in case it is your valves needing adjusting heres the specs and order... just in case you dont want to look thru a book. http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/13/47/0900823d801d1347/repairInfoPages.htm

haha i made the same mistake dont worry bout it! yeah its a chin not a belt for petes sake it was like 4am when i left a reply...

hold up guys last time i did my research, it was the 2+2 that had the 240mm cause of the added weight of the car. and i had a 300zx flywheel before and from what i remember it had a different bolt pattern...

i had the same problem bro! sounded like i was running a diesel tractor!!! all i did was adjust the valves to spec once when cold and a second check after warm up. after that ran really smooth. chances are if the person you bought it from did not change the timing belt for so long that it stretched what makes you think he did any type of maintenance on it at all... good luck

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250168199217

hey guys! another down pipe on ebay! makes me wish i did not buy the 2.5 down pipe a while back! anywho seems to be better than the one i bought. dont get me wrong it fit perfect but... 3 inches all the way to the TURBO!!! agh! im pulling my hair on this one since i just spent money on the 2.5!

Yeah i think its no reserve so it would be a good price at 75.00 bucks hoping it says that way...

I agree with both you guys.... it will flow way better. and it would probably be the same price with a muffler shop to do a full system but for some reason they dont have manderel bends around these parts. and if they do they get you in your tailpipe without the lube! also id hate to drive thru town without any type of DP although it just might be some fun hehe! atleast till you got 3 cops on you @$$!!! for the awsome 3 block radius noise.

Ok last time i found this on ebay it was already to late cause i never got a answer to weather or not this was a item i should have purchased. Anyhow its been re-listed at a lower price so should i get it? or just twist the arm of some poor guy at the muffler shop to make me one? i just remember my last l28et 240z they made a really crappy down pipe from the 3 bolt flange. it was a major crush bend at a 90 degree angle that hung so low cause they could not make the bend too tight. talk about major restriction... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-L28ET-TURBO-DOWNPIPE_W0QQitemZ130150709794QQihZ003QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

so from what im getting is this downpipe worth it? i used to know a guy who owned Bell Turbo in Stockton, California... he did mostly big riggs but man this old man knew his suff. talking bout atomspheric pressure to sea level determins what type of turbo you would need. but the main thing he states is the exauste flow needs to have the least resistance. he also stated 3 inches is overkill as he laugh at our mini turbo compared to the tire size turbos he worked with saying there was no point to that. so i figuered why 3 inches? 2.5 45degree mandrel is better than 2.25 90degree crush or two 3inch 90degree bends. think about it its not just about the volume at what its flows but the current in which i needs to flow effortlessly! is that even a word? hehe

I agree KTM i had to argue with 3 different muffler shops to even do 3 inch piping not even a down pipe. they just wouldent do it cause they said it would not clear under the Z. finally found someone 3 shops later and they charged me 200 +. but like i stated muffler shops dont just carry thes turbo flanges and they will charge an arm and a leg for the labor of taking off the old downpipe then doing all the measuring and fabricating.

Aluminized Steel vs. 409 Stainless Steel Both aluminized steel and 409 stainless steel are excellent products for automotive exhaust applications. Both offer excellent heat and corrosion resistance and both can be easily welded. Aluminized steel is steel that has been hot-dip coated with an aluminum-silicon alloy containing between 5 and 11% silicon to promote better adherence. It offers more corrosion resistance than galvanized steel and is 20 times more heat resistant than cold-rolled steel and 5 times more heat resistant than galvanized steel. Used widely in original equipment and aftermarket exhaust systems, aluminized steel is used by most muffler shops. It is a very long-life product and will generally outlast mufflers by years. It is very workable and accepts bends without stressing. The principal advantage of aluminized steel is its lower cost. 409 is a titanium stabilized ferritic stainless steel which means that it is a steel alloy containing chromium. It contains less nickel and more carbon than 304 stainless steel. Ferritics are best suited for high temperature applications that require corrosion resistance and high strength. The principal use of 409 stainless steel is automotive exhaust systems and most catalytic converter shells are made of 409. More workable and stable than 304, 409 will accept bending and heat cycling better than 304. It resists both atmospheric and exhaust gas corrosion. It is magnetic due to its higher carbon content. Through chemical reaction, it oxidizes to a slight brownish hue which aids in corrosion resistance. While it does not polish well, it offers the advantages of higher strength, lower cost and longer life due to its heat handling qualities.

ok who cares if its stainless steel! thats really just to look pretty and its way to low down in there to see. yeah it has a better resistance to heat but seriously im about perfromance. aluminized steel will last a very long time against rust and corrosion. not only that, but with a l28et in a 240z it does not have much clearence so i would definitly heat wrap it. so no point in having show quality thats going to be covered. besides im not going to stick my head in the engine bay to see how pretty it looks while im racing down the road. ALL PERFORMANCE

Yeah I Figured It Was Pricy But Iv Seen A Webpage That Sells For More. Also Iv Tried Having A Shop Do One But They Dont Have The Flange Readly Availible To Them. Also They Charege Around 200 Just To Do It. Anywho If I Wanted To Get A Shop To Do A 3inch How Would They Do That? 2 45 Degrees? Or To 90 Degrees? Cause I Would Think Doing A 3 Inch With 2 45degrees Would Be Way Too Thick To Fit In Between The Tranny And Tranny Tunnel. Ahhh Any Ideas? My Stock Pipe Sucks! Eh I Dont Think 150 Is Too Much To Pay. The 300 Is A Buy Now Option Anyway And I Havent Seen A Bid Yet So Maybe Ill Finally Get Lucky And No One Bids But Me! Hehe Kidding

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-HYBRID-L28ET-2-5-INCH-TURBO-DOWNPIPE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ003QQitemZ130145890298QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW hey fellas just wondering do you think this thing is worth getting? i know these things are hard to come by. Does anyone know of a company who does make them or is this a pretty good deal?

heres what it looked like before i took out the restrictive filter heres a shot of the 1/2 nipple 1/2 inch!!!

Just a thought... in your constants page - injector control. Are you running SIMULTANEOUS or ALTERNATING? From what I’ve read on the MS instructions website SIMULTANEOUS will begin to lower your PSI. As far as your fuel pump growling! I had the same problem when I put an in-line fuel filter in-between my fuel tank and my fuel pump and it started to growl. So I took the in-line fuel filter off and it stopped. Anywho one of two things, ether your not getting the fuel to your pump by restriction (clogging) or by form of setup (like I had...). Also just a question where is your feed line coming from? In order to avoid the double pump e.g. fuel tank to feeder (low pressure pump) to main (high pressure pump) to motor. I took my fuel tank drain plug out and used that as my feed line straight to my high flow. I then set my tank and pump so the bottoms were at the same level so the gravity helps feed the pump. Kinda like a siphoning effect. sorry if this was usless rambling

Thanks HB280ZT for pointing me in the right direction. Problem solved! So this is what happened! I’ve been trying to set my timing by just turning my crank back 60 DEG BTDC and turning the DIST. till I got the LED on the MS to work. One problem though, the oil pump spline was off. So when I set the DIST to light the LED it was still on the #1 CYL window on the OPT. WHEEL when I adjusted it. Solution: Just like HB280ZT said, I took the cap, rotor and plate off so I could see the OPTICAL WHEEL with the 6 windows. I had the 300zx version so it had a larger window that indicated the #1 CYL window. Now I just had to get the sensor to be centered with the #4 CYL window (the window prior to the #1 CYL). The way I did that was to turn the crank back far enough BTDC till I was within the DISTRIBUTORS adjusting range (APPROX. 80 BTDC because of the oil pump spline being off.). PRESTO! The led went on. I then started the car and it was really rough because the TRIGGER ANGLE (DEG) on my MegaTune was at 81. And like I said my FIXED ANGLE on the MegaTune at 10 (DEG) BTDC. So I adjusted my TRIGGER ANGLE up from 81(DEG) and the car died. OK! So…., started it up again and kept LOWWERING the number from 81. The idle started to smooth out and became steady. When I hit TRIGGER ANGLE 55(DEG) my timing light matched my FIXED ANGLE 10(DEG) BTDC. Of course it will be a different FIXED ANGLE (DEG) for everyone. Now just to clarify cause I was not to sure myself till I got it to work! On the CRANK PULLEY your NOT looking for the mark where you set you angle BTDC (E.G. 80DEG BTDC from your TDC mark.) You’re looking for your 0(DEG) TDC mark. ATLEAST, that is what I did and now everything is all good! Just thought I'd throw that in cause I’ve read so much and got that part confused when post talk about marking your BTDC. One thing I learned…. just turning the crank back X amount (DEG) BTDC and loosening the DISTRIBUTOR to adjust it by hand till the LED lights up on the MS might not be enough. Take the distributor cap, rotor, and plate off so you can see what you distributor is doing. If your not a lucky as me to have a 300zx optical wheel make sure you mark your #1 CYL window before you start turning the crank back. I just used some white out and placed a dot as a mark to line up the next window. Hope this helps anyone who’s having the same problem or mistake... REISHOKIN240Z:mrgreen:

Finally! It's Alive...

OK.... WELL! that sucks! still the same thing... stops running at full TP. I even changed the ACCELERATION WIZARD from TPS-Based to MAP- Based and still the same. I know there was athread on how to set timing but i cannot find it now? Can anyone tell step by step cause I think I'm Doing it wrong...