Slammed68 Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 Im almost halfway done with getting rid of all the unneccesary wiring in the Z. When you're taking it all out, all you should keep is everything pertaining to the body controls correct? Are there ANY wires that I should be keeping that are actual engine wires and that are not listed in the JTR manual which I gladly bought? It doesn't really tell me what I need to know. I figured some of you LT1'ers would have a breakdown of what color wires to get rid of right at the firewall where they all come out, and then go from there, but I guess not. It would make the ease of this night and day Also, is there anything besides the fusible links that I should be keeping on the relay bracket? The PO did a wiring wonder and there are alot of things that aren't according to the FSM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammed68 Posted October 4, 2007 Author Share Posted October 4, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 The JTR book does a good job of telling you which wires you should keep and what you should remove. I installed a new fuse block for supplying power to the LT1 harness. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRF%2D70103&N=700+%2D123976+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammed68 Posted October 4, 2007 Author Share Posted October 4, 2007 Which book, the 350 sbc swap book? It tells about 10 wires that you need to keep. Are those pretty much all the same as you need for the LT1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Bart, Did you keep the original Datsun fuse box or did you change that out too? The JTR Datsun V8 Swap Book tells you which wires to keep to fire up a GM V8 350 engine. The book with a 240Z on the front cover doing a burnout. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 I did not read the JTR book, but I don't see how you can hook up the LT1 following the directions from a how to install a 350 book. I would recommend removing the fusable links and getting a fuse block with a few extra plugs. I put my fuel injectors on there own fuse. Look over the diagram I sent you, look at the starter and you will see its a blue wire going to plug C2. You will see how I wired the MIL, data link connector, alternator etc.. Its very accrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammed68 Posted October 5, 2007 Author Share Posted October 5, 2007 Wow.. I now understand haha.. you should see how huge I blew up your diagram too.. It spans about 3.5 feet wide and about 1.5 feet tall and is hanging up on my garage wall.. Helps alot if you dont like to use a magnifying glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 Bart, Did you keep the original Datsun fuse box or did you change that out too? The JTR Datsun V8 Swap Book tells you which wires to keep to fire up a GM V8 350 engine. The book with a 240Z on the front cover doing a burnout. Danno74Z I kept the original fuse box and used the additional one just for the LT1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Slammed, You made my day. I blew up the original diagram and had to tape it together. The pages were different sizes and it was black and white. It was a pita! I drew every line on that diagram in paint. It took a looong time. I'm sure glad someone is using it. I hope it goes down in a history book somewere. I don't know, maybe some poor employee has to draw all the diagrams by hand? All I can say is, it was a lot of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammed68 Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 Yea, that looked like it sucked horribly, because everything is so strung out and everywhere yet so tidy at the same time in the diagram. With it blown up though it is a hell of alot easier to see stuff, especially tracing it from the pcm and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 I did 2 LS1 swaps and I didn't use any wiring diagram. To clean the engine wiring harness I took the whole harness and put it a table. Cut all the tapes and open up the harness. Start from the front of the harness (where the head lights) label each connectors. You don't need any diagram to figure out which connector is for which function. You should have 2 connectors for headlights, 2 connectors for the running and signal lights, 2 spade connectors for the horns. Everything else other than that you can trace them back to the 2 big connectors at the fire wall and cut. For the wires I cut I leave 6" of wire from those 2 connectors just incase you need to run extra wires to the engine bay. You can use these pig tails to run your wire thru the fire wall. You will need to run thick wire for the electric fan and alternator or A/C. Don't tape the harness up until you completely got everything working. GL V. oops I forgot one more connector for the wiper and some connector for the ground and brake fluid sensor. I didn't keep them so I cut them too except for the wiper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 Vin, These guys are referring to the engine harness not the chassis harness. To really know what one is doing and to make it easier a schematic to the PCM pinouts definitely helps to sort things out. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 The engine harness should be completely removed since you will be using the LT1 or LS1 harness. For the 280Z this would be the EFI harness and everything else attach to it. On the 240Z I don't think there are many wires there. Yes you will need the diagram to tell you which wire goes to which gauges so you can splice them in but it's easier just to ohm it out from the dash harness. Most of you running with new gauges anyway. What I did was label all the sensor wires at the connectors for the dash harness and at the end of the LT1/LS1 harness. Make sure you have everything matched up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammed68 Posted October 12, 2007 Author Share Posted October 12, 2007 Well I just dug into it really in depth tonight, took the dash out, unwrapped all the looms, everything. All I have to say is why would anyone need a book for that It was seriously mindboggling how easy it was to reduce the amount of wires for unneccesary stuff.. Did it in like 3.5 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragefear Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Well I just dug into it really in depth tonight, took the dash out, unwrapped all the looms, everything. All I have to say is why would anyone need a book for that It was seriously mindboggling how easy it was to reduce the amount of wires for unneccesary stuff.. Did it in like 3.5 hours. And so what did you end up doing? Getting rid of all the engine wiring? Did you just leave pig tails and the rest of the chassis wiring? What unneccesary stuff did you get rid of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammed68 Posted October 12, 2007 Author Share Posted October 12, 2007 headlights, turn signals, ground, horn, gauges, heater controls. I think thats it, the rest is ran back to the harnesses and removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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