Armand Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 Like jmortesen and Clifton said, check the length of the pushrod. I had the same exact problem as you. My master was leaking, replaced it, booster started leaking, replaced it. After putting the larger mc and the new booster the push rod need to be adjusted quite a bit until the brakes engage at the right point in the pedal throw. It's going to be a pain in the butt to adjust it just right, but I am very sure that's your problem. While your doing this check if your reaction disk is in place like the others said. That's also a very common problem. I THINK your brakes should engage after 2 inches of pushing down the brake pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 I think Armand may be on the right path here. As I read his post I remembered that last summer a friend doing upgrades on his 71 had the same symptoms and in the end it was the length of the pushrod that caused him all his grief. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Mine Motors Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 ok here is exactley what you have to d. i know becouse the same exact thing just happened to me so listen! you said you have the maxima calipers right. i know that in order to make then fit you have to put the right caliper on the left side and the left on the rightside. when you do this it causes the nipple to be lower than the caliper is designed to be at. so there is air getting stuck somewhere in your caliper, and it won't come out when you tri to bleed it becouse the nipple is no longer the highest piont on the caliper (since you have to switch them to get them to fit). now. this is how you fix the probllem: came you calipers off but leave the brake lines on. then hold the caliper with your hand in a different angle so that the nipple is sticking straight up in the air. this will make the air bubbles in the caliper go up into the nipple and come out when you bleed it in this position. belive me this will work. i had the same exact symtoms a few days ago and my brake barley worked. but after this method of bleeding it works great.make sure you are holding the caliper the right way. if you dont see air coming try changing the angle. tell us if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ZonRed Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 Thanks everyone!!! It was a combination of bleeding the maxima calipers off the car with the bleeder at the 12 oclock position and increasing the length of the push rod by 1/8th of an inch to get more pressure to the rears. Stock prop still on as I couldn't get the lines to connect properly to the adjust prop. Seems a 1/8th-27NTP connector is not the exact match for the stock lines as it got to tight to soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 I did this swap and had my calipers on the wrong side. Had the exact same problems you are experiencing. After I chnaged sides all went well. Check those calipers.....my bet is they are installed wrong.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 Stock prop still on as I couldn't get the lines to connect properly to the adjust prop. Seems a 1/8th-27NTP connector is not the exact match for the stock lines as it got to tight to soon. Being a Japanese car, the brake line fittings are metric, and the correct size is M10 with a 1mm pitch I believe. Also, there is a lot of confusion out there about the proportioning valve on Z's. Up to '72, the proportioning valve is at the rear of the car, mounted in line with the feed to the rear brakes. Starting at some point in '73 (maybe from the beginning of the model year), it was moved to the firewall (this distinction in 240Z's is not made in the Haynes manual). Unlike the earlier models, the valve is also tied to the front brake line, using pressure to the front right caliper to modulate pressure to the rear brakes. For the record, if you have a '73 or later Z with the proportioning valve on the firewall, you SHOULD NOT gut the proportioning valve, or you will tie the front and rear brake circuits together! If you want to replace the stock proportioning valve on a '73 or later Z with an adjustable valve, you need to splice the line going to the front, right caliper back together again once the stock valve is removed. Nigel '73 240ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 Being a Japanese car, the brake line fittings are metric, and the correct size is M10 with a 1mm pitch I believe. M10x1.0 is correct -- they are also regular inverted flare NOT bubble flare fittings. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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