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Why does my 240z stops at 138F(59c) every time?


Tatsuki

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I have 73 240z 28et with megasquirt. And I'm having a trouble. She runs fine till water temp gets to 138F. And module gets really hot, so I did think it was from engine heat. however I kept it outside of engine room during testing, it didn't help. Please help me!!

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The needle of tach meter moves rough for couple of times. And engine stops right after that. I can't start my car till temp goes all the way down.

The engine can be started up again if it's before this problem shows up.

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The engine is from 83 280zx l28et, so I'm pretty sure the CAS is from 83 also. Unless somebody have changed it before I got the car.

And I'm using 4 pin module.

If I be honest, I'm not so familiar with electlic stuff much.

MS was installed already when I got the car. And MS got burned from electric problem. So I had to take the car to a shop.

The mechanic was really nice and studied MS for me...

Unfortunately, I'm still having a problem.

 

I atacched MSQ down below. I used a japanese program for zip.

you might have to install Japanese.

If it's problem, I'll look for english one.

megasquirt200710232253.zip

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It's located near coil.

I know that shops hate to do it.

At first, He was willing to do it for experience as a mechanic.

So,I paid about 2k for setting and fixing up MS for the shop.

And, car died on me on the way back from shop. Not once.

I towed my car so many times for that. Sometimes stuck in texas heat for couple hours. But I'm not gonna blame about it.

But, I'd like my car to be done professionally.

I'm a sushi chef. And if I'm charging money for something, I'll do my best.

even I like it or not. I know working on car is not easy as cooking.

I really want him to finish it. So, I can respect him as a man.

when this time doesn't work out, I'm gonna find some Z owners who suceeded with MS.

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Sounds a lot like the old CAS problem - when they get old, they start going flaky with heat. If you look under the slotted wheel in the distributor, I bet you will find that what would normally look like caked wax looks like it is jellied...

 

That is why I am going to put magnets on my dampener and use aftermarket ignitors and COP units when I MS my '83ZXT - I literally can't trust the car to take me anywhere anymore.

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If the meqasquirt got hot or possibly shorted like you describe then it might be best to find someone with a stimulator board and test out the MS box by itself. You could buy one and it might help with learning some more about megasquirt if you have time. The other choice would be to find someone near you and see if they are willing to swap their MS box into your car, but the stim board is what I would try.

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A rebuilt CAS from Autozone is under $300. I almost went that route myself.

The HEI is susceptible to bad ground, and something 'just stopping' sounds like internally heating and stopping.

 

Mine did that on a cheapo Wells HEI. Once I swapped to the aftermarket Perlux HEI Flame Thrower, the 'just stopping'...er...'just stopped'!

 

But I agree, putting the MS on a Stim may reveal a lot, and letting it sit on the dashboard in the Texas sun will get it plenty hot to reveal heat-related faults.

 

Good Luck!

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