280zwitha383 Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Ok so I burn a good bit of oil in my 383. I can't remember if I always have or if it started after a certain time. Compression is good all around. Will overheating cause the seals to harden? I've never had a head apart but I do have some spare ones and a spring compressor to play around with before I try it on my 383. Now, an old timer up at work told me I could cut off a spark plug (the ceramic part) and braze a compressed air fitting to it to keep pressure on the valves and keep them from dropping (does that work?). Then I could take the springs off and... they're right there? haha. Now my dart heads have dual springs, is that going to cause problems? Also, I don't know if it was him or someone else that asked me either what kind of guides I have or what kind of seals I had and of course I don't know. What is he talking about? I know I need to figure out which type I have to order some more but this is a new ball game for me. From what I understand if the guides aren't worn then I can just replace the seals. How do I know if the guides are worn? Can you wiggle the valve and tell? Need advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dead2me Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Ok so I burn a good bit of oil in my 383. I can't remember if I always have or if it started after a certain time. Compression is good all around. Will overheating cause the seals to harden? I've never had a head apart but I do have some spare ones and a spring compressor to play around with before I try it on my 383. Now, an old timer up at work told me I could cut off a spark plug (the ceramic part) and braze a compressed air fitting to it to keep pressure on the valves and keep them from dropping (does that work?). Then I could take the springs off and... they're right there? haha. Now my dart heads have dual springs, is that going to cause problems? Also, I don't know if it was him or someone else that asked me either what kind of guides I have or what kind of seals I had and of course I don't know. What is he talking about? I know I need to figure out which type I have to order some more but this is a new ball game for me. From what I understand if the guides aren't worn then I can just replace the seals. How do I know if the guides are worn? Can you wiggle the valve and tell? Need advice! yes it does work.. but you will need a decent spring compressor to do it with the heads on... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D62370&autoview=sku before you try to undo anything, take off all of the rockers, then get a socket that fits on top of the retainer, but doesn't touch the valve head. then whack each one to break the retainers loose. once you have done that, then go cylinder by cylinder, put the hose or fitting you made in there and go through each one replacing the seals.. it works fine, just don't drop a valve.. if you try the wiggling part, good luck.. you will need them off of the seat to see if they are loose, and if you drop one, you won't like the results.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted October 28, 2007 Author Share Posted October 28, 2007 So would the little compressor that you screw by hand not be sufficient? Basically what you are saying in the last part is that if I'm going to do them while they're still on the engine I'm just hoping the guides are good because I've got no way of telling, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z48LT-1 Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Now, an old timer up at work told me I could cut off a spark plug (the ceramic part) and braze a compressed air fitting to it to keep pressure on the valves and keep them from dropping (does that work?). FWIW, I fashioned my cylinder-inflater from a spark plug anti-fouler ($3/pr from Napa), an air hose fitting and a little JB Weld. The threads matched well enough (i.e. "bottomed out" under finger torque) that I figured the epoxy would seal the deal. Haven't used it yet but a dry run didn't blow the fixture apart. Keeping the piston near TDC when you play this game might help avoid the catastrophe that dead2me alludes to. Best of luck, and keep us posted, eh? Cheers -- Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95187 its a waste of time and effort to build your own when HF sells complete compression test kits for under $15 with them included youll NEED to pull the heads to correctly measure the valve guides or install new ones,( BOTH jobs best left to a QUALITY machine shop) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dead2me Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 So would the little compressor that you screw by hand not be sufficient?Basically what you are saying in the last part is that if I'm going to do them while they're still on the engine I'm just hoping the guides are good because I've got no way of telling, right? if you want to do all 16 that way, knock yourself out..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z48LT-1 Posted October 31, 2007 Share Posted October 31, 2007 its a waste of time and effort to build your own when HF sells complete compression test kits for under $15 with them included Durn! I was hoping for my MacGyver merit badge, too. Grumpy, you're one hard scoutmaster! Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 31, 2007 Share Posted October 31, 2007 Durn! I was hoping for my MacGyver merit badge, too. Grumpy, you're one hard scoutmaster! Gary YEAH! the TRUTH SUCKS AT TIMES, but theres little to be gained in fabricating a tool when the comercial versions easy to aquire and dirt cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z48LT-1 Posted October 31, 2007 Share Posted October 31, 2007 ouch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 IM certainly NOT knocking your skills or enginueity,which I applaud, Im just pointing out your time and efforts better spent elseware Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z48LT-1 Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 Grumpy, Yeah, okay, thanks, I guess. One of the benefits implied by the sign a good friend gave me for my garage door, "My garage, my rules" is being able to work as slowly as I want to. I would greatly enjoy your company in the garage but only after the tools were put away and the beers came out. Otherwise, each of us would undoubtedly contemplate homicide... Best regards, and thank you, seriously, for your hard-learned contributions -- Gary Don't ask me how much time I spent taking apart a Camaro wiring harness to go in my project... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 Looks like I'm headed to harbor freight. I hate how long it takes me to actually do stuff.... I'm just going to replace the seals and not the guides. I've been all over google and talked to two different people at jegs. I can't figure out exactly which seals to order. I know they're 11/32" valves and I THINK they're 1/2" guides and I THINK they're umbrella seals??? Anyone know? If I can think about it I'll call dart tomorrow and get the details from them. If someone knows off the top of their head please clue me in. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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