Guest jcarter Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 located a 72 with supposedly no rust. engine has 3000 miles on a rebuild bored 30 over. su's have been replaced with webers why i dont know. i thought that was a fix for the 73's and 4's. never been wrecked. everything else as far as i know is stock and original. dash has cracks and seats are worn and carpet is faded. heres the kicker....the car hasnt been cranked in five years or so. im thinking of taking a battery and trying to fire it up but am kinda scared to try that on a car thats been sitting five years, especially if i end up buying it. his asking price is a bit high in my opinion but he sounds pretty neg. on that. he says he is original owner but doesnt have the su's or remember if the intake had been changed when the carbs were ???. he also doesnt have the original wheels or covers. id like it to be driveable as i restore it and build a l28 to go in. i plan on going to see it next weekend, 2 hour drive, and look it over. why would someone not crank a fresh rebuild in 5 years? as i write this im getting less and less enthused about going to see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fhptom Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 I would go with trailer and a little less cash than what he wants. Just in case it is a good deal for you that way you won't have to make the drive twice. Plus if he sees you show up like a real buyer the price usually goes down. Just check everything that you have read about before on this and other sites. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 Good advice on the trailer. I still bought the car but had to make two trips when I got mine. If it still has the mechanical pump, bring a gallon of fresh gas and some extra hose and run it to the gallon. I would say 5 year old gas will not let you hear it run. Either way it might not run if the carbs are gummed up too, but one less thing to deciphere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 How much is he asking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 I replaced the SU's on my 70 240 with dual webers cause it was cheaper than trying to rebuild the SU's. You didn't say wether it was dual downdraft webers or triple sidedraft carbs. If it is triple webers they could have gone in as a performance upgrade. Dual webers might have gone in with the same idea in mind. Maybe he just thought they would be better carbs and/or got a deal on them. If I were you I wouldn't worry too much about the motor. They can be rebuilt cheaply enough. It is the "no rust" statement that should concern you. Fixing rust is time consuming and expensive. A truely rust free 240 Z, even with a blown motor, can go for $3k to $5K in your area. Look at a running motor as a perk. You are going to need to drain the gas and change the oil before you try to start it. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the plugs and squirt some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and turn the engine by hand a few times too. Find out how it has been stored. In a closed garage our out in the elements. That would mean more to me than a running motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 Well I saved this car from the crusher this spring. I still gave the owner a few hundred for it. It was left outside in the Forest for 13years including sitting through some nasty winters. It refused to start, but it instantly registered great oil pressure. I ended-up bypassing the tank buying a new fuel pump and connecting a hose into a Jerry Can and VR-OOOM she fired up... Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jcarter Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 its a 5500.00 obo car. here is the only pic he has of it. he said its been stored inside. he seems to really need to get it gone and commented about negotiating down for the tires and other things effected by letting it sit without being cranked or moved for so long. cant see paying anywhere near that amount for a non running car. the rust free and never been wrecked were what got my attention. thought about just turning the crank by hand to make sure it wasnt frozen. but would like to be able to check compression seeing that it has been bored once already and doesnt leave alot of room for another rebuild. i would like a driveable car without having to do a lot of work beforehand. a driveable project i guess you could say. im making a list of all the things to take with me for the inspection and another list of all the things to check. is there a sticky or thread here that lists what all to do when inspecting a potential s30. just in case i overlook something ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 That is steep for 5500, unless there really is no rust and the paint is pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 About half way down on the left side http://www.zhome.com I have seen people pay more for vehicles that came in baskets. Try and talk him down. It is hard selling a non running car so use that to your advantage. You can probably get a complete running L6 motor for $300 from someone on this site. I will sell you one with an attached 5 speed for that. Z car blocks often go 250K miles without needing more than a hone on rebuild. So don't let the idea of not being able to bore it out again discourage you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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