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1979 s130 rear struts


silver280zx

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  • 1 month later...

Ok so heres an update, i have teh suspension apart. i am installing suspension techniques lowering spring, and i put them on the strut and am putting the bonnet on, but the problem is threads on the strut rod seem to end sooner, causeing the strut to be taller than the stock one, also there is a half inch gap between the top of the bonnet and the top of the spring. Any suggestions, i need help bad.

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the tokicos spring is shorter than the shock's expansion aswell, I just alighned the spring in the cup and sat the car on the ground, its just fine, handles great and have yet to have any kind of a problem, aside from when the dickwads at the tire store told me they didn't fit right and "adjusted them to be closer" by rotating them so they werent' sitting in their cups right.... needless to say I was ready to do some bitchslappin

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the tokicos spring is shorter than the shock's expansion aswell, I just alighned the spring in the cup and sat the car on the ground, its just fine, handles great and have yet to have any kind of a problem, aside from when the dickwads at the tire store told me they didn't fit right and "adjusted them to be closer" by rotating them so they werent' sitting in their cups right.... needless to say I was ready to do some bitchslappin

 

i appreciate it the info, i was thinking it would be fine, but how will it be when im Autox ing? if i take corners too fast, will it pick up off the spring, and get off track?

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I don't know the rates... but you'll notice a difference as soon as you pull out of the driveway.

 

the car will roll much less in the curves, hug the corners alot harder (before tire squeal) it still seems to squat excessivly though, but not as much as it did before. also I've noticed it has a great tendancy to throw itself sideways while engine braking in hard (autoX curves) but not on street conditions. I'm thinking either a stiffer front bar and/or LSD would solve that problem.

the car will be MUCH more responsive into corners and you'll definatly feel the road a little more.

the ride will be a little rougher than stock but still tolerable enough I don't give it a 2nd thought as a DD car.

the only other downfall is with the drop you gain a good deal of negative camber, wich will help cornering but will worsen tire wear, although I got just as much life out of my tires after the drop as I did before the drop...just watch out for drifting.. you'll REALLY eat the inside edge of the rears quicker.

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ya i have some supra wheels im working on right now, i paited them graphite with a polished lip. im goign to be running a 225/60/14 on them. those are my dailys, i am buying some avon slicks for my 15's for autox. Im also running the 1 1/4 front sway bar, and a 7/8 rear. it should be a nice setup, i just cant wait to get it out. but it might take a few weeks, due to fuel tank repairs, due to blown struts. I am also interested in all motor build if anyone has any useful info. I have an f54 flattop block on the stand, but i cant decide which head i want to try and build, i have a n47, p79, and an old e31 laying around. I can always find another one around as well. anyway, thanks guy.

 

oh ya, i forgot to tell you its not my daily, its my resto-mod, im trying out new things on it, so ideas are welcome.

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the easier skidding is caused by the fact you have more negetave camber, thus causing less of a contact patch of the tire while cornering. fixing the front is easy, the back not so much anymore. go get some 225/60's, theyll stick even better. if you are just auto-xing, then spend your money on the only thing touching the ground!!! when you lower it, but the front bump steer spacers, itll help with better handling and steering input, there kinda cheap, and correct the messed up geometry.

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