Edelbrock top end kits?

[janaka]

Well I'm looking for a reliable combo for my motor that I'm planning to put into the Z hopefully over the winter/spring.

 

block:

350 bored .030" over, stroker kit

eagle stroker rotating assy

forged rods and pistons (7cc flat tops)

HV oil pump, double roller timing chain set

 

what are your thoughts on the Edelbrock Top end kits.

to me it seems to take some of the guess work out of the infinite combinations available on the market place. I'm looking at the Edelbrock part # 2098 as seen on summit racing

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2098&autoview=sku

I've read that the dual plane intake (RPM air gap) is better for low end torque and will make about the same HP as a Victor Jr single plane intake till about 5000rpm (after which the single makes more power, but i plan on being under 5k more than over)

the aluminum heads flow pretty well, and for us keep the weight down which is a bonus. nice valve sizes to boot.

the cam isn't HUGE, 234/244 @ .050 total lift= 480/510, LSA 112*

 

with that cam and the specs from the rotating assy and the links from grumpy my CR comes out to about 9.7:1 which will be 91 octane safe.

This will be a street car with the occaisonaly run down the track. a fun weekend car. Gears are 3.90's R200 and will most likely be mated to a G-force T-5

 

opinions guys?

[dr_hunt]

cam is remarkably like the gm hot cam .474/.510 lift HR. I've used it before and it works very well. IMHO if your going to go that route then why go with the all forged internals? ie. rods, like h beams wouldn't be necessary, or even a forged crank for that HP level. Just food for thought when it comes to spending $$$.

 

If you were going to go with all forged internals and the engine is destined for a z I can tell you that it will have good manners with more cam and bigger heads as long as it's mated to the right stall converter or a manual trans, gears, etc.

 

Always build as big a motor as you can afford. Trust me on this one. 4 inch stroke 408 cubic inch sbc would really work well in the z. Get 9:1 compression, 240 to 250 duration at .050 and as much lift as you can get. and get some afr eliminator 210's or even 220's.

[Pop N Wood]

Z cars are really light. They don't need a lot of low end torque and can't really make use of it if they have it (traction limited).

 

Car mags are always talking low end torque, but that is because they are geared toward much heavier cars.

 

A Z car can get away with single plane intakes and more cam than a heavier car.

[janaka]

cam is remarkably like the gm hot cam .474/.510 lift HR. I've used it before and it works very well. IMHO if your going to go that route then why go with the all forged internals? ie. rods, like h beams wouldn't be necessary, or even a forged crank for that HP level. Just food for thought when it comes to spending $$$.

 

If you were going to go with all forged internals and the engine is destined for a z I can tell you that it will have good manners with more cam and bigger heads as long as it's mated to the right stall converter or a manual trans, gears, etc.

 

Always build as big a motor as you can afford. Trust me on this one. 4 inch stroke 408 cubic inch sbc would really work well in the z. Get 9:1 compression, 240 to 250 duration at .050 and as much lift as you can get. and get some afr eliminator 210's or even 220's.

 

I'm going with the forged internals as it was only marginally more expensive than not using forged for the pistons/rods. My thought was that it would allow me to upgrade down the road when I wanted more out of the motor. Do the bottom end once and be done with it type of thinking.

 

With the pricing on the top end kit being about $1600 from my local shop it seems like a pretty good deal since its aluminum heads, intake, cam etc etc. I've been quoted almost that much from other shops just for those heads alone.