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Gage Problems (tach, fuel, and temp)


Guest leitthouse

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Guest leitthouse

When either the left or right turn signal on, or the emergency flashers on, other gages moved in synch to the flasher. With the turn signals the tach moved about 1000 RPM up and down, with the emergency flashers it moved about 5000. Also the fuel gage and temp gage needles would windshield wiper along with the turn signal operating. The problem was easy to find on the schematic but not so easy in the car. With the dash out I found the black wire going from the instrument cluster to the green connector had about 2.7 ohms of resistance, downstream from this connector to ground was 0.1 ohm. There's a point where 4 branches of wires feed into one and the problem was here. Inside the plastic conduit three grounds splice to one at this point. The splice and wires looked great, but after 26 years of heating and cooling, I guess electricity didn't care how it looked. I wiggled the splice and the resistance dropped to 0.1 ohm. I just bought the car and the previous owner told me how sometimes he'd bump the dash and the gages would work right. It all makes sense now. Some solder and another squeeze on the crimp, should make it better than new.

 

Next, I don't want to put the dash back in because of the way it looks...old and cracked up. I'm thinking about going to a fabric store and having a go at putting new vinyl on it.

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It amazes me the auto industry relies on crimps. Solder is you friend.

Have you seen this thread about dash fixes? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123189

Check out #13

 

 

When either the left or right turn signal on, or the emergency flashers on, other gages moved in synch to the flasher. With the turn signals the tach moved about 1000 RPM up and down, with the emergency flashers it moved about 5000. Also the fuel gage and temp gage needles would windshield wiper along with the turn signal operating. The problem was easy to find on the schematic but not so easy in the car. With the dash out I found the black wire going from the instrument cluster to the green connector had about 2.7 ohms of resistance, downstream from this connector to ground was 0.1 ohm. There's a point where 4 branches of wires feed into one and the problem was here. Inside the plastic conduit three grounds splice to one at this point. The splice and wires looked great, but after 26 years of heating and cooling, I guess electricity didn't care how it looked. I wiggled the splice and the resistance dropped to 0.1 ohm. I just bought the car and the previous owner told me how sometimes he'd bump the dash and the gages would work right. It all makes sense now. Some solder and another squeeze on the crimp, should make it better than new.

 

Next, I don't want to put the dash back in because of the way it looks...old and cracked up. I'm thinking about going to a fabric store and having a go at putting new vinyl on it.

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Guest leitthouse

I've finished preparing the dash for the textured coating, but can't get a couple of things out. One can of this coating was just under $20, hope it's not a waste of money and time...

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