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HybridZ

Dumb pivot point relocation question...


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when measuring distance to relocate the front control arm pivot point on the crossmember, do you measure from center of the old hole to center of the new hole, or from top of old hole to the bottom of the new hole?

 

reason i'm asking if it's measured from center to center, the effective moving distance between the edges of 2 holes wouldn't be 3/4", but more like 1/4."

 

and another ridiculous question: i assume "bumpsteer" spacers fit on top of the steering knuckles, not underneath?

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Center to center. (Or top of old hole to top of new hole or bottom of new hole to bottom of old hole - you get the idea).

 

The new washer you put in there and tack in place will make up for the fact that there's only a tiny strip of metal between old and new holes. (They also make for a nice smooth surface for the bushing to rub against).

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Guest Anonymous

Aux... I made a template to precisely locate the new holes.It is hard to drill the front hole to align in the same place as the back pivot hole. I fitted a wide strap of metal in the radius of the lower control arm by grinding and trial fitting.. After two attempts I had a single template that could be used to locate all four holes front and back and one side to the other side. I then located the lower hole with a transfer punch from the backside hole all the way thru to the template covering the front pivot hole.. After I had the template centered and aligned in place on the control arm, I drilled an 1/8 inch hole for the original hole and measured up 3/4 of an inch and located the new hole and drilled another 1/8 inch hole. I then drilled out the lower template hole to 9/16 which is the same size as the pivot hole. I then bolted the template onto the original pivot hole and marked the new upper pivot hole thru the 1/8 inch template hole with a 1/8 inch transfer punch. The template can be reversed to the back side and bolted on the lower pivot hole to mark the new upper pivot hole on the backside.The template will locate the front and back hole in alignment with each other. Drill the 9/16 holes with a small drill bit to begin and graduate to larger sizes. The 9/16 drill bit wants to really wallow out and rip thru the hole. Being very patient a person can drill the 4 holes with an electric hand drill but I took the crossmember off and drilled on a drill press. I got some good clean holes on each side and in alignment with each other. I used about an 1/8 inch strap welded with the 9/16 holes on each side as doubler plates for the control arm bushings to fit between. I ordered some 3 piece bushings from MSA that fit great. On one control arm, I used my porta power with the expanding jaws to open up the control arm a wee bit for a better fit for the MSA bushing. IF you move the control arm pivot points upwards , you will not need the bump steer spacers and they go on the top of the knuckles but I have heard of putting them on the bottom (?)

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Probably not as effective but here is what a friend of mine did with his Z. He bought the offset bushings from Motorsport that allow you to adjust your camber and installed them to lower his pivot point rather than change the camber (he has a camber plate that allows him to set his camber correctly).

 

Dragonfly

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