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critique my basic turbo build!


LeX

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Doing a budget but effective turbo build. Let me know what you guys think and what could be improved keeping it as a budget build :ugg:

 

 

motor: L28E , 78 , rebuilt with OEM parts 8.3:1 compression, dished pistons $0

 

turbo: holset hy35w (he351) @ 1 bar boost $325

 

injectors: RX7 redtop 450cc injectors $40

 

fuel pump: MSD inline $100

 

fuel rail: Pallnet O-ring style $110

 

FMIC: 24x12x3 core , 2.5 in and out $65

 

Full Engine Management (MEgasquirt or Emanage or other) $300?

 

3" full turboback exhaust $275

 

STI boost gauge $40

 

non EGR intake manifold $50

 

stock turbo exhaust manifold $50

 

turbo valve cover (+30 hp) $10

 

eclipse 1G Blow off Valve $34

 

TOTAL COST NOT INCLUDING i/c piping, tuning, fittings and lines

$1399

 

 

looking for a safe street tune for 93 octane. What do you guys think is the most boost i can run safely for the street with a good tune. I was thinking 1 bar to be safe-ish.

 

-Alex

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From my research, I would at least double the amount for Megasquirt. Unless you plan on building it yourself.

 

Do you have most of these parts already?

 

50 for the intake can be questionable. I've seen them go for 42 to 125.

 

Was your "not including fittings" line, including modification of the oil Pan?

 

Just double the figure and I would think you would be safe.

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"Full Engine Management (MEgasquirt or Emanage or other) $300?

 

3" full turboback exhaust $275"

 

I would double the cost for MS as well. Additionally, I highly doubt you will be getting a 3" turbo back exhaust (mandrel bent) for only $275. You forgot a muffler which in itself is $65 to $150+.

 

The FMIC is a little low as well. I know you are probably quoting an Ebay SSAC I/C, but you have to figure in shipping too. I would budget $100 for the I/C.

 

The turbo valve cover is not $10, more like $50.

 

You need to have the injectors bench flow tested and cleaned if they are used. Figure another $80 for the injectors.

 

These are but a few examples. If you purchase all new bolts for the engine, figure another $100. Powdercoating engine parts, figure another $200. You need a new fuel filter and those run $50 minimum. What about a fuel pressure regulator? An Aeromotive FPR will run you around $150. Fuel pressure gauge is another $40. An intake (piping and K&N filter) will run you another $70.

 

I agree with JSM. Double your figure for a safe estimate of a 'budget' build.

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"Full Engine Management (MEgasquirt or Emanage or other) $300?

 

3" full turboback exhaust $275"

 

I would double the cost for MS as well. Additionally, I highly doubt you will be getting a 3" turbo back exhaust (mandrel bent) for only $275. You forgot a muffler which in itself is $65 to $150+.

 

The FMIC is a little low as well. I know you are probably quoting an Ebay SSAC I/C, but you have to figure in shipping too. I would budget $100 for the I/C.

 

The turbo valve cover is not $10, more like $50.

 

You need to have the injectors bench flow tested and cleaned if they are used. Figure another $80 for the injectors.

 

These are but a few examples. If you purchase all new bolts for the engine, figure another $100. Powdercoating engine parts, figure another $200. You need a new fuel filter and those run $50 minimum. What about a fuel pressure regulator? An Aeromotive FPR will run you around $150. Fuel pressure gauge is another $40. An intake (piping and K&N filter) will run you another $70.

 

I agree with JSM. Double your figure for a safe estimate of a 'budget' build.

 

I already have the turboback, turbo valve cover, no muffler on car, 3" resonated with tip (mufflers kill the amazing Z car sound :) ) already have FMIC , already painted some engine parts with engine enamel . Having the emanage i suppose control fuel adn everything else. Have a fuel pressure gauge and already have an intake. I also have a fuel cell and have newer fuel filter

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From my research, I would at least double the amount for Megasquirt. Unless you plan on building it yourself.

 

Do you have most of these parts already?

 

50 for the intake can be questionable. I've seen them go for 42 to 125.

 

Was your "not including fittings" line, including modification of the oil Pan?

 

Just double the figure and I would think you would be safe.

 

right modification of oil pan i would include with fittings and etc i suppose :)

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what do you guys think would be a safe level of boost to run on the street, 93 octane tuned properly with the above mods.

 

I was thinking a max of 1 bar boost (14-15psi ish) but some folks have told me they ran 18 on theirs. 18 just seems a bit high on a non turbo but it is the 8.3:1 comp one.. i know the pistons aren't so much the issue as the rings and seals and all that junk. What do you guys think

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I'd agree about the eManage versus standalone, but since the limiting factor is the pistons, or namely the piston rings, a lot of it boils down to keeping it from detonating. If you can do that, you can get more out of it before the power breaks the ringlands. That's the reason for the engine management comments and whatnot. Keep the A/F safe and/or run some octane booster (as in, a gallon of race fuel per tank or torco additives, etc.; not the useless garbage at auto parts stores) to try to suppress detonation until you get a longer term solution.

I'd recommend a clean standalone like a megasquirt and EDIS, etc.

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