strut sectioning/how to?

[denny411]

Could someone point me in the direction of a previous thread on strut sectioning? or maybe to some how to pics? or maybe some first hand info. Hell, I`ll take whatever I can get. Maybe chicken scratch something on a postit.

[Guest JAMIE T]

Hey Denny, I think Pete has a pretty good right up on his site.

 

I just did mine also, no pics, but I could try and explain it.

 

I am using coilovers, but the cutting part should be about the same if you are using stock style srings. I cut the tube about midway down, took out a 1.5" section. Welded them back together using a peice of angle to clamp the two halves to. So, the round part of the strut tube would sit in the "V" fromed by the angle. I think someone here also stuck a peice of tubing inside the strut tube to help hold it square, but I don't think that is neccesary(plus I think he said it was dificult to remove the tube after welding). Since I was using coilovers, I cut the spring perch off with a cut-off wheel and ground the tube smooth with a soft wheel(flexable type) on an an angle grinder. I actually cut my tubes in a cold saw(metal blade with coolant) for VERY accurate cuts. Others have used a SawsAll with success. If you are are keeping the stock style springs, then it seems to me, you would need to cut the tube below the spring perch. Or, above the spring perch to help reduce the chance of bottoming the strut. I don't know.

[denny411]

Cool, thanks

[Pop N Wood]

I think Lone suggested this as one option for cutting

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5983

[Guest Anonymous]

Jim and Jamie have got you in the right direction and here are some more details: 10 inch coilovers are about ideal since you can use the original weld bead from the sheet metal OEM sring perch as a starting reference location. Going to 10 inch coilovers without any sectioning and using the oem spring perch welding bead on the strut tube as the bottom location of a new spring perch will net you about 2 inches lower than stock. If you want to section 2 inches out of the strut tube use the center of the weld bead and cut an inch on each side.An inch section cut 1/2 inch on either side of the old weld bead. I use a Rigid pipe cutter to get an accurate and stright cut started on the strut tube and finish the cut on my little bandsaw that follows the precise groove cut made by the pipe cutter very easily.The pipe cutter can cut the strut tube but compresses inward reducing the total inside diameter. I use both the angle iron/c clamps and a buffed "3" foot section of exhaust tube to fit firmly inside the strut tube (and long enough to grip or place a pipe wrench on for turning).I insert the exhaust pipe and clamp to the angle iron and c clamp and tack weld. At each weld, rotate the exhaust pipe to prevent the weld from sticking. You will also have to re-locate the angle iron and c clamps as you alternate your short welding beads around the strut tube and the exhaust pipe keeps it all straight. The exhaust pipe is a quality control measure to check on straightnes and warpage thru out the welding proceedure and can be relied on more than the c clamp and angle iron. The strut tubes are thick enough to take some real welding heat. Ross C supplies a really good thick washer for a coilover "spring perch" which you can lay upon your new welding bead which will be located in the old spring perch welding bead's former location. You can lace up a new bead and join the spring perch (washer) to the welding bead that holds the strut tube together for added strngth In sectioned tubes you will use the front strut cartridges in the rear tubes which will require some spacers placed in the bottom of the strut tube to take up slack. I found that KYB GR2 #364014 Rabbit fit the front 280Z 2 inch sectioned (2.185" inside diameter tubes) like a glove. And heard # BZ3099 adjustable Illuminas for the MR2 fit 2 inch sectioned 240 Z (2.02" inside diameter) front tubes

[BobsZTwins]

Have you checked out the article in the Summer 2002 edition of Sport Z Magazine? Lots of detail and pics. Uses parts from MA, Ground Control and Coleman Racing.