best way to repair??

[MJLamberson]

do I strip the paint before I bondo? can I find all the answers on a bondo label? am I asking to many questions?

[Guest TeamNissan]

You should always be down to the bare surface when doing any body work. That way it has max bonding.

 

I think the instructions on the can leave something to be desired but I'm sure if you google there is a step by step procedure with pics you could follow.

 

Too many? No, I mean thats part of what a forum is all about lol. It may be time though that you try and do some of your own leg work. We gave you just about everything you need to know.

[MJLamberson]

yeah and I really appreciate it, thanks a lot everybody (especially teamnissan)

[mikeatrpi]

Ah yes, I remember you - the kid with the most helpful turbo advice. "search and search some more". But, here- I'll throw you a bone.

 

 

For the fenders - I'd take them off the car. Leave them in the sun to get warm and shape the metal. For the sharp bend you might use vice grips. For the dent on the smooth metal, use a hammer and dolly. You can even use a block of 2x4 as a dolly and a regular old hammer if you're careful. Do one side at a time so the car isn't out of commission for too long.

 

Like TN said, bondo is porous. Apply bondo to bare metal for the best adhesion. That means use a angle grinder with a flap disc or just some 80 grit sandpaper to strip the paint. Always feather bondo out - put on multiple thin coats that are maybe 50% larger in diameter than the area you're working in. You want to hide the transition from metal to bondo. People drill holes and pull when they can't reach the back side of the panel. You can easily do that if you remove the fender - so don't drill. Always cover your bondo with something waterproof - you can buy nice aerosol primers at the autobody store for 10-15 a can. Explain to the counter man what you're doing and they can recommend a product.

 

Other bondo tips - wear a dust mask - it smells and tastes pretty nasty. Mix up a small amount of bondo at a time. Many thin layers is better than 1 thick one. You can buy a cheese grater from autozone that will help you shape the bondo before it is fully cured. That will cut down on sandpaper usage. Spend the $4 on bondo applicator squeegees... if you leave leftover bondo on the blade you can flex the squeegee and dried bondo will crack off. Silly me, I thought they were disposable at first. You can use a cheap lacquer primer (the $2 cans at 'zone) as a guide coat when you think the panel is smooth. Spray it on, and sand it off. Wherever you have primer remaining is a low spot - more bondo. Wherever you sand to bare metal is a high spot and you need to get out the hammer again.

 

You'll probably spend a saturday on each fender, time-wise.