Jump to content
HybridZ

Differences between z32na vs z32tt?


Guest mrl

Recommended Posts

I am new to HybridZ so I hope you guys will be tolerant to my obvious questions, and I know very little about Z's. I did a search, but could not find the info a was looking for. My question basically is, what are the differences between the two cars, other than the engine, of course, such as suspension, steering, brakes. I have read that the tt has a beefier diff. I have a gen 1 SBC rebuilt and ready to be installed into something, and I was wondering if a na z32 could handle 400-500 hp (I may add nitrous) since they are less expensive than the tt's (I haven't bought the car yet). What, if anything, needs to be done to the car for this swap? Thank you. Marty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Differences:

 

TTZ:

- HICAS 4 wheel steering system - earlier models used hydraulics to move the rear wheels and later models went electric. Most disable the system with a HICAS eliminator kit (simply a bar that bolts in place of the rack with arms to keep the rear wheels in place). To make things easier, you would definitely want to eliminate it.

- Adjustable suspension - allows adjustment for a soft, medium, or firm ride for best handling (if I remember correctly).

- Ride height is slightly higher (my guess is probably due to the suspension)

- Differential and axles - Uses an R230 differential (slightly larger than a Ford 9") and has a 3.69:1 ratio. Axles are very heavy duty being 32 spline (flange axles that go into the differential are 30 I believe).

- Gauge cluster has a boost gauge

- 250mm clutch/flywheel setup (shouldn't matter for a swap though)

 

NA Z:

- R200 differential with 4.08:1 ratio. Smaller unit than the TTZ with smaller axles but are still said to be nearly bullet proof. If you're going with an NA V8 setup, this will likely be the differential you want unless you're going for a performance and economy setup.

- 240mm clutch/flywheel setup (again, not very important for a swap)

- Slight lighter than a TTZ

- Available without t-tops, but are very hard to find... I want one baaaaaaaaad :lol:

 

 

I'm doing a hybrid Z32 as well and I recommend going the NA Z route. They're pretty easy to find and much cheaper than the TTZ. Should also be cheaper to insure as well. That's all I can think of at the moment. Good luck with the swap!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mtcookson, thanks for that great reply. You mentioned that the non t-tops are hard to find. I don't mind t-tops but are the chassis with t-tops strong enough for the torque of a V8? Also, do LSD's come standard with all z32's or maybe just for the TT? As for the diff's gearing, I probably will have to lower the gearing since I already have a close ratio muncie m-21. I know it's not the ideal trans (only 4 gears, no overdrive) but I'm not conserned about fuel economy and I don't feel like spending $2000 on a Tremec. This car will definately not be a daily driver.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The slick top Z32's will have a stiffer chassis but the majority of the high power Z32's will have t-tops so its not really something to put too much worry into (torque wise, the VG30DETT can be a torque monster so its definitely not something you'll need to worry about). Most of the time, if you're making enough power to worry about chassis flex you'll likely already have or be putting in a roll cage which should take away any potential issues.

 

LSD wise... both do have a viscous limited slip differential... but being viscous they offer minimal lockup and, with the mileage of most Z's, won't be working very well. If you're going to do drag racing with it you could probably just weld the diff. or you could look for an aftermarket unit (Quaiffe probably being the strongest but definitely probably the most expensive).

 

As far as diff. ratio options... the 90-96 Q45 R200 is a 3.538:1 but uses TTZ sized flange axles, axles, and wheel hubs making for an even stronger setup than the NA Z and you should be able to bolt it in (I'm doing this in my Z since I'm going with a boosted V8 setup so I'll know shortly if it works). For the TTZ, Specialty Z carries a 4.10 ring and pinion for the R230, if you get a TTZ and want a higher ratio differential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Reading up on Braap's post, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123262, it seems like the HICAS IRS's are a pain in high stress driving. Does the N/A have such issues - are they designed much different with the lack of HICAS?

 

Looks like mostly a bushing deflection issue, which the NA will still have, but would definitely be remedied by getting suspension arms with the heim joints (check out http://www.splracing.com for one company that makes them) or even polyurethane bushings would likely eliminate a lot of the flex.

 

 

hey mtcookson, is the R200 from the Z32 swappable into a 87 Z31 at all?

 

4.08 sounds like it'd be one hell of a final drive :D

 

That I know of... no. I would check out http://www.z31performance.com for info on that though.

 

Personally... I wouldn't use that differential on a turbo equipped vehicle. Turbo engines generally produce a wide enough power band that wider gearing works better. Search around on this site and you'll see many guys going faster with lower ratio differentials on turbo setups.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators
Reading up on Braap's post, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123262, it seems like the HICAS IRS's are a pain in high stress driving. Does the N/A have such issues - are they designed much different with the lack of HICAS?

 

 

 

 

Pete, my report was from the N/A NON HICAS cars, (my N/A ’90, and ’93 Z-32 and my ’96 Q-45, same rear suspension). Not sure how much the HICAS adds to the “feel" of the multi links vague unpredictable rear suspension.

 

I’m on the fence with poly bushings in the rear of the multi link suspension as bushing flex is a key aspect of how this suspension functions, i.e. the bushings HAVE to deflect for the suspension to articulate, if the bushing are harder that forces the control arms into bind and increases suspension stiction, and if those bushing were solid such as aluminum, the control arms would be locked and would not move, other than the control arms flexing. Hiem joints sound like the way to go, I’m curious, if ALL of the rear control arm bits were 100% heim jointed, if the rear suspension would move or be locked into position? In looking it over up close, I think it will still articulate, though some of the designed in attributes of this suspension will be lost as bushing deflection would be 100% lost and is one of those attributes. For the hard core discerning track driver, that could be a good thing, or a bad thing.

 

 

RearfeelCustom.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...