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Interior Stripping Q


SmogSUX

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OKay, I've gone ahead and started to strip my interior and it's going well. Just using a hammer and chistle (sp?), only using the hammer for some parts.

 

Anyways back to my question:

Who here has removed the caulking as well as sound deadening? How hard was this? I'm just asking since the sound deadening was coming off really great then I hit what looked to be caulk in a seam. (Where the factory caulked over the welds?) Anyways should I remove this and recaulk it all? In the end all I know is I'm removing all sound deadening POR-15 everywhere, then install some good sound deadening/insulation then recarpeting for my Daily driver :D

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most of my seam sealer just pealed up. Especially in the rusty areas.

 

If the seam sealer is still really well attached and you don't have any rust issues, then you might was well POR over it. If you do remove it, then make sure to reapply new sealer.

 

By the way, putting dry ice on the tar for a minute or two then smacking it with a hammer is a lot easier than using a chisle. I got dry ice from the local Safeway grocery store.

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Yeah I have super minor surface rust, but around the seam sealer it's nice. The sealer is on pretty well so I'll leave it. My chistle is working great with the sound deadening though. No dry ice needed :) It's chunking off with some areas needing a little work. After I get this done I'll go over the whole interior with 100 grit sandpaper to rough it up a bit since I read POR-15 loves to be applied to rough areas. And my dad's giante shop vac is proving ver useful for sucking up all the smaller bits

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Yeah I have super minor surface rust, but around the seam sealer it's nice. The sealer is on pretty well so I'll leave it. My chistle is working great with the sound deadening though. No dry ice needed :) It's chunking off with some areas needing a little work. After I get this done I'll go over the whole interior with 100 grit sandpaper to rough it up a bit since I read POR-15 loves to be applied to rough areas. And my dad's giante shop vac is proving ver useful for sucking up all the smaller bits

 

POR-15 doesn't really care if its rough or not, but it doesn't like shiny automotive finishes, better to be down to bare metal. It also needs the metal to be very clean and completely dry. Any moisture at all will give you fish-eyes. Clean it well after getting all the dust out and then hit the area with a heat gun or propane torch to burn off any water residue. I have found heating the metal make POR-15 work much better. WEAR GLOVES, I love this stuff but it is a bitch to remove from your skin if you don't remove it quickly!

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Hmm interesting thanks for all the tips guys. I'm mostly to metal on the floorboards, but after looking in the hatch area the paint is perfect :o so I'm thinking I'll borrow my friends DA and hit that really quick. haha the paint in the hatch area looks like factory new.

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