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TORQUE CONVERTER QUESTIONS


MYRON

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I started this question in the brakes suspension and chassis so i will re-post it over here...

 

I think I have the wrong converter, here is what it does and tell me what you guys think... Mike mentioned that it is for a heavy car. how much performance can i get going to more of a stock converter?

 

When I brake torgue the car it comes up to 2700 rpm and then starts to spin and push the locked up front tires. when I release

the brakes, it jumps to 4000 rpm and stays there until the car "catches up"....

 

When i am just cruising in any gear and

punch it, it jumps to 4000 rpm and stays there until the car "catches up"

 

The converter is a B&M 10" that is supposed to be a 2500 rpm stall. I had it cut open

and an anti-balooning plate added and some work done to the vanes and snout.

 

Is this a 2500 rpm stall or a 4000 stall?

and should i go back to a stock converter?.

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Aren't the stall rpm numbers for converters really dependent on the weight of the vehicle? In other words, if the weight of you car is lower (like 2700 lbs) than the weight of the big 'Merican muscle car that it was designed for (or the stall speed is advertised for) then the effective stall speed in your lighter car will be higher?

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Guest Anonymous

Very true Pete, you need to talk to the mfgr of your tc before you buy it. When I called TCI they asked for weight, tourqe and cam profile. Then they told me what to order.

I thought I needed a stall of about 2600 but TCI said no way, I need more like 3500 because the car is so light and would not be very streetable and would require both feet to keep it from rolling at a stop sign.

 

------------------

Dan "I need bigger tires" Porter, 78 280Z, 383, 475hp, Comming soon T56, Move outa my WAY!!!

http://24.4.88.44/members/dporter/DanZ.html

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I still dont think that I follow.

When i stomp the gas my engine jumps to 4000

rpm and starts accellerating. I feels like it is not pulling as hard as it should.

By the time it does feel "right" i am

way beyond the power curve..

With the 700r4 and stock converter you felt

firmly planted in the seat as long as i was in the gas. with the th350 it feels like i am waisting the 1500-4000 rpm power band..

maybe I am coo-coo. Someone with a big stall please tell me how this thing is supposed to feel.

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Guest Anonymous

Myron

I hate to tell you this but you have a bad converter, it's doing what they call blowing through the converter in other words slipping. Cheat rebuilted converter are known for doing this, but B&M are known for having good converter. Jack

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Jack, this converter is a brand new B&M

2500 rpm stall. I messed up the snout

and had to get a new one put on. I had the most popular race shop in town cut it open

put in a new snout and anti-ballooning plate in and they also did something to the vanes,

but i cant remember what. I can hear a

swooshing sound (like alot of fluid being forced through a small hole) when i start off

and just drive easy on it.

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Guest Anonymous

Myron,

 

Did your car pull hard from 1500RPM before you went to the new converter? If it did, then I am just wondering why you went to the 2500-"maybe 4000" stall??? Maybe I missed something in your earlier posts, but if it pulls good from 1500 then yeah, you are waisting ALOT of your valuble power rang, and I would go back to the stock converter unless you are running a REALLY big cam and just need it or something. But if you are not used to driving a car with a high stall, then it will drive you crazy because it just doesn't feel right after being used to the "immediate" stock take-off. But that's just my measly opinion. wink.gif

 

Lee

 

 

------------------

260Z, 327, T5, JCR California Z

http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/ripnshred.html

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Guest RON JONES

Myron,like Dan,I also run a TCI converter.Mine was custom built(like Dans).To get the most performance out of your combo,your converter should be built acording to rearend gear,weight,cam,ect.I tryed to use an off the shelf coverter in the past,never with good results.

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heh just a thought

it is my understanding that you should select a stall right where or about where your peak torque happens for max perfomance....

forget horsepower as that is just a state of mind...

torque wins races hands down.

so get the numbers and tune your converter as needed......

 

Stan

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Guest Anonymous

Myron,

 

If your engine build wasn't the reason for getting a high stall, then in my worthless opinion, I would go with a stock TH350 converter. I had a TH350 in mine when I first got it running and used the stock stall converter and it pulled like HE!!...it wasn't worth a S@#$ on the highway...but from a dead stop, it was a rocket! But if you don't have a BIG cam and a hi-rise intake then there's no reason to waist all of those bottom end "torquing" RPM's by eliminating them with a stall converter, especially with a really light car, ya know? Big cams and hi-rise intakes have a power rang starting at 3000-3500+ RPM's, so unless you REALLY need the stall to match the power rang of your engine components...just go back to pulling hard from 1500 RPM's. Just my opinion... smile.gif

 

Lee

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