hughdogz Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 I've searched around and couldn't come up with a straight answer so... I want to use the stock idle air controller (air regulator) with an aftermarket EMS to control the cold idle speed. With my stock one, the valve is open with no signal going to it. This would make my idle really high since it has almost no restriction. I tested it with a 9V battery and it didn't seem to close it at all. Is it broken? It seemed to work fine when I had it hooked up last. I have a different one from a VW / Audi / Volvo and it is closed with no voltage. I would rather not use it since I have to make (another) bracket for it and it has a bigger openings than the OEM one. I read someone said the 240SX is a good one to use...if I didn't have a bracket for the stock one already made, I'd probably go for the 240SX. What are you guys using? Thanks for your time reading this. -hughdogz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 It's supposed to be closed with no voltage. It has a little heater in it that heats up and opens a little flap to raise the idle, that one is probably bad. I'd get one thats a valve instead of a flap. Some older carbd cars used a little solenoid with a wedge that would prevent the throttle to fully closed when energized. I've wanted to try one of those too. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted February 10, 2008 Administrators Share Posted February 10, 2008 The OE valve is 'normally open' and closes slowly as voltage is applied (heated element). Its not an integral part of the EFI (ECU has no control over it and isn't aware of its existance). All thats needed to make it work is a ground on one side and switched power on the other. You can use your fuel pump relay to power it if you wish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 Hey thanks for the replies Ron and Mario! Well, I decided to install it anyway. The inlet is plugged for now so I can mess with it later. Install pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted February 11, 2008 Administrators Share Posted February 11, 2008 The inlet is plugged for now so I can mess with it later. You won't be able to use a filter on that else you'd have a boost leak. It needs to return somewhere downstream of the turbo (pre-throttle). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 You won't be able to use a filter on that else you'd have a boost leak. It needs to return somewhere downstream of the turbo (pre-throttle). You're totally right Ron...thanks for catching this. I don't know why I was thinking it could be hooked up differently if there is no AFM. Boost leak = Bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm Go to pdf on bottom of page. I forgot who posted this frist but it was one of the best reads for me. FI bible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted February 15, 2008 Author Share Posted February 15, 2008 http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htmGo to pdf on bottom of page. I forgot who posted this frist but it was one of the best reads for me. FI bible! Thanks for that link Worldson. That really helped me understand how the AAR works. Initially, I re-located mine so the in / out would remain the same. However, it fits much better now that I flipped it around. Since there isn't a check valve, I think I'm still safe flipping it around? I wish there was an easy way to retain the hookup for the coolant passage though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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