Stock radio, new speakers ?

[nbesheer]

Okay the stock speakers in my S130 say 8-OHM anyways I wasn't able to find new 8-ohm speakers, so I have two options, I have a pair of Jensen Triax II speakers, they look pretty old but have no OHM markings so how could I tell what they are, also how would I go about hooking up new 4-OHM speakers ?

[Six_Shooter]

If you have a DMM (Digital MultiMeter), set it to Ohms, place one probe on the positive terminal and the other on the negitive terminal. Polarity doesn't matter for this. You will find that the speaker will not read exactly 4 Ohms, or 8 Ohms, etc, but will be fairly close. Most 4 Ohm speakers that I have tested usually read about 3.6 Ohms. A very few have read over 4 Ohms. If you have a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) AKA "Analog multimeter", you can use this the same way, but the reading will not be as exact.

 

The speakers that you want to test will most likely be 4 Ohm. Most aftermarket speakers in the mid and high freqeuncy range are 4 Ohm. There are a few exceptions, but are not very common at all.

 

You would connect these in the same way as you would an 8 Ohm speaker. This will cause the amplifier (in the head unit) to put out a theoretical double the output at the same volume setting. This means you would not need to turn the head unit volume dial up as much for the same level of output. The increased efficiancy of the speaker will also help in this regard.

The only time you would experiance any problems using a 4 Ohm speaker on a head unit that originall ran 8 Ohm speakers is at higher output levels, where the highest demand of the amplifier is desired, which you would probably not want or need to turn to with a new set of speakers.

Most times there are no problems however, since the automotive amplifiers, especially older ones (even those inside the head units), had little to no current limiting capabilities, which means that it will just keep playing, without turning off. This can lead to a problem if you only listen at higher volumes as this can cause the amplifier to over heat.

In the '80s MANY rear speakers of GM cars were 10 Ohm, and I would regularly switch them out for aftermarket 4 Ohm speakers on the OEM head unit and never be told of any problems. The customers were always happy with the increased output and clarity and most commented on how they didn't need to turn the volume knob up as much as they would previously.

[nbesheer]

Okay I have a DMM and under the OHMΩ section I have this.

 

20M = 0.00

2000K = 0.00

200K = 0.00

20K = 0.00

2000 ->|- = 025 (and the speaker starts making static)

200 = 5.5, 6.0, 10.3 etc

(squiggly line) = 000

 

I kinda know how to use a DMM but I really have no idea what I'm reading here.

 

[Six_Shooter]

Ok, well, you need to use the lowest setting. I keep forgetting that some (most) DMMs have seletable ranges, mine is auto ranging, so I forget to mentin that often times. Sorry about about.

 

It seems that either the cone of the speaker was moving, or your batteries are dieing. You should get a steady reading. Make sure you measure the speaker in a non-windy environment, and don't push on the cone of the speaker. The moving cone creates a voltage and change sthe resistance reading.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "squiggly line", might be a continutity test or ACV. Usually AC Volts is signified by a "~". You shouldn't read anything on ACV.

 

Can you get any pics of the speaker, especially the sticker on the magnet? and possibly your meter to show what's going on?

[woldson]

Good write up six shooter. Clipping will be easier to achieve with the 4 ohm set up I believe. Ethier way even a lower powered amp can blow high wattage speakers with clipping.

I always had a rule of thumb that I followed with stereos, 70% speakers, 30% gear. Cheap amps and great speakers will give you amazing results, vise versa will give you moderate results. (plus this weird smell emminatting from the coils;)!