zgn Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 I have a 1973 240z which is in great shape except for the framerails all the way to the radiatator core support. Should I ditch it or fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgn Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 I am thinking about purchasing both of the front frame rails from motorsport. they sell them for $400.00 does anyone have any specs on the dimensions? If anyone has done this before in the birmingham al area please feel free to stop by and give some helpfull advice. Car is on the lift now, motor/trans out, passenger floorpan out. ready to cut some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 there's quite a bit of information on the topic in the archives. I assume you're posting in HybridZ because you're not after a classic resto, so improving the structure is okay. Here's a couple of suggestions. If your rails have enough material on them you can cap them with: http://www.baddogparts.com/bdp.htm or you can use Pete's idea: http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgn Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 there's quite a bit of information on the topic in the archives. I assume you're posting in HybridZ because you're not after a classic resto, so improving the structure is okay. Here's a couple of suggestions. If your rails have enough material on them you can cap them with: http://www.baddogparts.com/bdp.htm or you can use Pete's idea: http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm I have been reading the alteredZ I have tried to contact bad dog z several times to orderparts. He is never available and I leave my name and number but no one ever calls me back. so I purchased floorpans and rails from Motorsport. Rails are gone, I am just worried about lining everything up when I replace them. Replaceing front engine frame rails, Floorpans & Rails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyfriend Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 i got my rails from zedd findings and that was $418/shipped for the pair. that was a week ago so i am still waiting on them to come in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4everDATSUN Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 ive just started getting into replacing rust. ive got it in the battery tray, pass. firewall, and driverside frame rail. i havent decided on rails but i know zeddfindings and baddogg rails are commonly recommended. im goin to have a local sheetmetal shop form me a new battery tray area so it looks original. good luck with your project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 i love my 1 bad dog rail, took around a week for install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blairjj Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Howdy, I contacted John @ Bad Dog via email and had a response with 24 hours. I ordered front and rear frame rails + a Roostmonkey RT mount. John was very diligent with email updates (I had to wait a week for new rear rails to be made). Things shipped via FedEx with a tracking number. John is a class act! Jay P.S. I also ordered Zedd Findings and Tabco... Zedd good... Tabco lacking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 I installed bad dog rails as well, but money talks. I ordered them and sent the payment right away. The front ones came in about a week. Later when I ordered the rear ones John told he was making a batch up in about two weeks and they were delivered a week after he said the would be ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyfriend Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 just a question, are the rails a direct replacement or a cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgn Posted February 12, 2008 Author Share Posted February 12, 2008 just a question, are the rails a direct replacement or a cap? Direct replacement, and I also have a cap to go on top of the direct replacement. I need the front one asap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 It's pretty simple to remove the old ones, sand the undercoating off. This will expose the spot welds. Drill through each weld, doesn't have to destroy the whole weld, just get rid of "enough" of it. Then, stick a prybar in between the rail and the car, and ream it down. It will pop any remaining weld, and rip your rail off. It will sound like a giant unzipping his pants. That giant is Yutaka Katayama, getting ready to f*ck you. Welcome to owning a 40 year old sports car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyfriend Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 i won't be doing the work, i am just asking so i know what exactly is going on. i will be bringing the car to a recommended welding location that has done z cars before. any idea how much this job may cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 too much. He'll rip the rail off and notice the battery box is totally rusted. Also that your floor board is rusted. Let the fabrication begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHP Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I capped my frame rails on my early 74 with the Baddog full length rails this week. It took two of us 6 hours to fully install them. My car had rust free rails and and the floor pans were solid too. I was adding the rail caps for extra strength for my Ford 302 conversion. To access the rails we attached a chain to the seat cross member and used a motor lift to tilt the car about 45*. The car is only a rolling shell. We bolted the rails in place to pull them up tight to the car, then welded the upper side of both rails, then flipped the car to the other side and welded on the upper sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Love those Bad Dog rails--they make the car very stiff compared to the stock ones. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Love those Bad Dog rails--they make the car very stiff compared to the stock ones. Davy I second that. I wouldn't recommend doing this, but after installing one side I got fed up with the car being so low and me being so cramped, I raised the car up another 6 inches with bigger jack stands. While raising the car off the shorter jackstands from the diff, the car raised very unevenly (about 2 inches). Before that the car would raise pretty evenly, maybe a half inch difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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