WHP

Before you go tearing everthing out as mentioned above check the hoses and valve. Get the motor real hot, turn on the heater and stand on your head with a good light and inspect carefully. That little 4" elbow hose is often the culprit. Mine took a dum on my wifes feet. Lucky she was not burned. Check the heater hoses too. It has been about 2 yrs ago but I got valves from the Nissan dealer.

I have not bought it yet but I am going to soon purchase one of these. Anybody using one of these? http://www.southernrods.com/search.php

I capped my frame rails on my early 74 with the Baddog full length rails this week. It took two of us 6 hours to fully install them. My car had rust free rails and and the floor pans were solid too. I was adding the rail caps for extra strength for my Ford 302 conversion. To access the rails we attached a chain to the seat cross member and used a motor lift to tilt the car about 45*. The car is only a rolling shell. We bolted the rails in place to pull them up tight to the car, then welded the upper side of both rails, then flipped the car to the other side and welded on the upper sides.

Well I sent an email to AFR bashing them for building heads that no exhaust fits and they admitted they blend the step just like I was planning to do. So plan well guys. I spent hours researching heads, but I don't remember anyone mentioning this problem.

I basically will have to make a .1" transition in the thickness of the flange. I contacted AFR and was very disappointed in their answer. Basically they made a large port with no provisions to connect properly to any off the shelf exhaust system. I would think a smaller port but smooth connection to header would outflow bigger connecting to smaller= turbulence? Here is their reply: Hey Will, You are not going to find any headers off the shelf that will completely clear the port. The problem is the stock 2" bolt pattern, then factor tube thickness, weld thickness, then room to actually remove and install the bolts. Just doesn't leave manufacturer's much to work with. Feel free to contact me again by phone or by e-mail with any further questions. Thank you for choosing AFR, Jason Dow AFR Tech./Sales Dept. (661) 257-8124 Ext. 124 Am I too much of a perfectionist or is this mismatch an expensive mistake on my part?

Nice. What kind of headers are those that fit with no steering rod mods?

Great post! Rarely do we get real apples to apples comparisons. At work we used to say- In God we trust, all others bring accurate data.

What I was trying to describe, is weld the tubing to the outside of the flange and remove it from inside the flange only. I was not looking to thin the tubing. It seems all too common for header mfgers to cut the flange to match the port then stuff the tubing inside that. Well that was a MSA header I once threw away was.

I am putting a 302 in an early 260Z. I bought the Summit blockhugger headers because they look like the best fit in the engine bay. But they do not match the larger exhaust ports of my AFR 165 heads. The flange is the correct size, but by the time the pipes are inserted and welded they are .1" undersize all the way around the port. Would it be possibe to weld around the outside flange and grind out the tubing from inside? Any suggestions? Thanks! Will Piatt

MY MSA headers matched up so poorly to my exhaust ports I trashed them and ported a P79 manifold and hooked it up to an oversize twin downtube. Heavy, but cheap, no leaks, and pulls good to 8K.

not a V and not an 8 but I want one in my Z!! 2.4L = 34 lbs http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Massive_Yet_Tiny_(MYT)_Engine

85-86 XT 4WD 86-87 GL 4WD 86-91 Loyale/GL 4WD 88-91 GL and XT-6 4WD Look at all the above. Remember it was frequently and OPTION. The big silver "LSD" sticker on the rear cover is a quick way to tell. Of course do the rotation test to be sure. The common 3:7 ratio is a fantastic ratio for street with a 5 speed.

I have them in two of my 240Zs. To bolt in you need to remove the R160's side stub shafts. They are retained by a PITA bolt requiring a very thinwall 8mm socket that will probably break. The easy way is to cut the shaft with a cut off wheel to access the bolt. Then withdraw the shaft and replace with stock 240Z stubs that have the flange to bolt the halfshaft to. The nose flange will work with a shorter driveshaft or swap it with the stock R180 one, but that requires removing the difficult retaining nut and maybe a puller. I have run one 70K hard miles behind a hot street L28 so they are tough. I would not expect it to hold up to hard drag style launches. They are considerably lighter than a R180. The LSD diffs have a big silver "LSD" sticker on them. The ones you want came as options in early to mid 80's Subarus and are 3.7:1. A few 411:1 LSDs are out there, but rare. The clutch pack from a 3.7 r160 will fit a 4.11 r160 but requires special bolts for the ring gear.

I'm running a 1mm over 2.8 with flattops, Isky L9 cam and a modified E31 head (not my first choice, but it's what I had at the time) with 280Z valves and 5cc removed from each chamber. I have had 2 sets of tripple Webbers, 3 different 4 bbl setups and dual SU's. The SU's ran out of punch at 5800 until I put in 3/8" fuel lines. Now it pulls clean to 7K. I won't run anything else until I get around to FI.

My car will be mainly street (not daily driver) with infrequent drag strip and track days, so weight dist. is important, although a one gal cell even full is rather insignificant. I am considering relocating the battery behind the passenger seat with an approved battery box and putting the cell under the hood. Any other bright ideas?