240SX Caliper Help!!

[S30TRBO]

After replacing my left rear caliper after my mechanic friend noticed it was leaking. I was sent another caliper as a replacement.

 

Well tonight was bleed the brakes night. I started off on the right rear. I bleed them twice then heard a nasty hissing sound coming from the left. Ok I thought the banjo fitting was not tight. So I rushed over gave it another slight turn had my gf pump the brake slow and I watched. I seen fluid coming out of the base of the banjo fitting near the bottom crush washer. I took it apart swapped out the crush washers and banjo bolt with some other used ones from another M/M brake line kit tried it again and LEAK!!

 

I take it all apart again and I inspected my custom braided line and 10mm fitting all looks good. Then I start looking at the top of the caliper and noticed a nice little groove. Looks like that is were the fluid is coming from maybe?? The crush washer is not filling the space and fluid is escaping from there? Is this surface suppose to be smooth I would think so, DAMN remans!!!

 

This is why I am here for a second opinion please take a look I circled the "problem" area and included the original.

 

My questions:

 

1. Can you reuse crush washers?

2. Do I need ANOTHER "New" caliper is that the culprit?

 

I am trying to get this squared away dyno day is this Friday!

 

 

Album with more pics: http://www.putfile.com/album/178802

 

Original:

 

Circled:

 

Thanks,

[Dtsnlvrs]

My questions:

 

1. Can you reuse crush washers?

2. Do I need ANOTHER "New" caliper is that the culprit?

 

I am trying to get this squared away dyno day is this Friday!

 

 

Album with more pics: http://www.putfile.com/album/178802

 

Original:

 

Circled:

 

Thanks,

 

 

1. I would not

2. Yes you need another one, the groove is causing the leak

[blueovalz]

If these were mine, I'd try a last-ditch idea before missing the dyno day. I would take a center-punch and carefully punch a point just outside the contact surface for the copper washer just adjacent to the divot. This will raise the edge of the punched spot and may give you enough material movement to allow full contact of the copper (crush) washer. You could start with a shallow punch, then angle the punch toward the hole a bit, and punch again (which would pile more material toward the divot). Doing this on the threaded side of the divot will prevent you from screwing the fitting back into the caliper. Depending on how this goes, you may need to dress it a bit to ensure it is not raised too much on the sides of the divot (which would prevent the washer from sealing as well. Lastly, heating the copper washer with a propane torch (or gas-top stove burner) will help anneal it (soften) to where it may seal even if you've not dressed the punched area well. I wouldn't consider this a permanent fix, but I seen odder remedies work great.

 

[S30TRBO]

Terry and Buck thanks much!!

 

I called my vendor and he is shipping out another one. I emailed him the pictures and he will make sure "this one" will be good to go.

 

Terry thanks for the nice diagram too. I would fell more comfortable in just replacing it since it is still on jack stands.