z or bust Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Ok I have searched and searched but cant seem to find a straight answer for my question. (80LT1 chime in cause I know you personally did this). When using after market gauges for the gauge cluster and the other 3, what do you do about the circuit board looking thing that the gauges mount to? Do you wire the new gauges by just cutting the wires right up against the original ones, or do you splice all the way back into the harness?? I hope this makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Well I am not using anything from that circuit board. I am actually not using anything from the original harness. I am currently rewiring my whole car with a painless harness, so I am just using the last few inches from each connector to connect to the painless harness. Before I started rewiring my car I ran the original 12V+ sources to the gauges by using two connectors that I bought at Fleet Farm in the trailer wiring section. I then used new wires to go from each gauge to the signal wire for each sensor. For the lighting I also used the original "illumination" wire that went to the original cluster. Since I have the wiring diagram(for a 79') right in front of me I'll point you in the right direcetion... *BR(brown) wire is your "Illumination 12V+ feed" *GL(green/blue) wire is your "left turn signal indicator 12V+ feed" *GR(green/red) wire is your "right turn signal indicator 12V+ feed" *Y (yellow) wire is your "main fuel gauge sending unit signal wire" *G(green) wire is your "12V+ main fuel gauge feed" *B(black) wire is your ground for both turn signal indicators, fuel gauge, illumination, water temp gauge, tachometer, etc... *YB(yellow/black) wire is your "signal wire for your water temp gauge" *LgW(Light Green/White) is your "tach signal wire" There are a few more possible wires you might need depending on what your going to use in your cluster but these are the main ones. This is what my cluster looks like from behind... And from the front... Here's a little more info from my webpage... http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/Gauges.html Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z or bust Posted March 6, 2008 Author Share Posted March 6, 2008 Thanks for the info. Any bit helps. I noticed on your website that you said you had to find a fuel gauge with the right ohms, was the any other problems with the fuel gauge as far as accuracy? I've heard of some people's gauges being way off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Yeah mine's not very accurate. It pretty much reads from full to 1/4 tank...1/4 tank of fuel = E on gauge....Full tank of fuel = F on gauge. I'm fine with that because I'l never run out of gas but that might bother some people. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Autometer DOES make a programmable fuel gauge...not in all faces yet though. I have one and it works perfectly, was easy to program...short 2 wires together at empty, fill it, short them again, and that's it. DONE. It doesn't care what resistance your sender uses... Also, I was the one who used the factory board in conjunction with the Autometer gauges. Had to jump a couple of traces that required cutting to make the gauges fit, but the idiot lights still all work. I Also added a digital shifter indicator where the bulb/fluid check thing was. I also moved the high beam indicator to where the "SENSOR" light was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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