Best year Z to get?

[Guest Anonymous]

I'm in the research phase now, and trying to decide what the best year of Z to get would be... I have few requirements, only being:

 

Interior MUST have the round gauges for tach/speedo, as the 5" Autometer gauges look toooo cool.

I want the smallest bumpers out there, legal or not

 

I've been leaning towards a '74-era Z, as that has the interior I desire, and would make me exempt from emissions testing. (My county doesn't have emissions...yet)

 

I've noticed some Z's need to be modified less than others when doing the swap, and my goal is to pick one with the least mods necessary. I'm great with electronics and electrical systems, pretty mechanically inclined, but I'm no good at welding or fabbing, although I have contacts for both, who will do it on the cheap/free...

 

Car will have either a supercharged LT1, or a N/A motor (carb) making no less than 450hp. T56 will back it up. My goal is $10k on the conversion (plus the car, which will be an excellent condition donor), with a mostly stock appearing body (with flares for big tires). Does this sound do-able?

 

Thanks guys, I LOVE this site, and can't wait to get a Z of my own!

 

Rich

[DavyZ]

Rich, there is no real answer for your question IMO because it comes down to personal choice. Here is a rundown of the cars and what needs to be done:

 

1) '70-'73 240Z If you go this route, rust free will be somewhat hard to find depending on where you are located. They all do have slim bumpers (yeah!!) and the later 240Z's ('72-'73) have the rear differential moved slightly for less rearend vibration. These are typically free from smog everywhere. You will have to replace the R180 with an R200 rear diff.

 

2) '74 260Z If you go this route, the early '74 cars have small bumpers like the 240Zs and are a little bit nicer inside IMO than the 240Zs. 260Z are a tad heavier than 240Zs, but are carbed cars nonetheless with less wiring to mess with than 280Zs. Rust can still be an issue here and you will still need to change out the R180 for an R200 rear diff. In CA, smog is an issue with every 260Z, period.

 

3) '75-'78(?) 280Z These are the strongest and heaviest 1st gen body-style cars. They are newer and probably are in the best overall condition, have the least rust, are relatively cheap, and are the nicest and quietest inside. Most came with R200 diffs (yeah!), but all came with large bumpers (doh!) that you will have to deal with. Replacing the bumpers can be expensive depending on how "factory" you want to go. Some guys get rid of the bumpers altogether...Smog is an issue in many states with these cars.

 

Each car will need mods and there are advantages and disadvantages to each. With 450+ hp, it really won't matter which one you choose. The 280Z is probably best suited to handle that kind of power from a structural point of view.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

David

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks for the info.. I thought the 280Z's had the flat-dash look, with all the needles behind a flat piece of plastic, like most modern cars? Or am I confusing the Z with the ZX?

 

Maybe the 280Z is the best way to go, as removing bumpers is easier than finding a diff... Of course, if the R230 ever becomes a viable swap...

[fl327]

smog laws have a direct effect on which year us californians can do the v8 conversion, generally 70-73 with 73 being the cutoff for smog, davy z has a 260 1974 which just necks him for smog. if you dont have emissions, man go get a 280zx, stronger frame, r200, and you are going to get those bumpers off arent(say yes) you can get those 280s really cheap , they are the most abundant, and really cheap, i think 240 owners tend to take really good care of their cars. man if you have 10k and do a lot of the work by yourself, 450hp is right under your left foot!!!

[DavyZ]

Oooops, my bad on the wiring of the 280Zs. Thanks Andrew for correcting that info; I get a 1/2 star rating for that...

 

Andrew, just so I'm straight about this, the extra room between the framerails in no way impacts the size of the spacers used in the JTR method, correct? I just gotta know!

 

Thanks,

David

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

quote:

---

Originally posted by DavyZ:

Andrew, just so I'm straight about this, the extra room between the framerails in no way impacts the size of the spacers used in the JTR method, correct? I just gotta know!

Thanks,

David

---

 

Crossmember engine pickup points did not change on Z's (perhaps same 70-83?) so your engine spacers are unaffected.

[BLKMGK]

I THINK I'd vote for the 74 260. Get the smaller bumpers, get the emissions exemption, and get the nicer (IMO) 260Z console.

 

IF your emission exemption is a "rolling" one like we've got in VA buy as late as say a '76, figure on getting it smogged when you buy it, "renew for two" if you can, and it will be exempt by the time the next test rolls around Oh, I'd replace the bumpers with 'glass ones as they look really nice and are feather light - just don't hit anything! FWIW - I've got a '72 but like the console setup in Mikelly's car much better - stereo is in there better IMO. I'll deal

[Andrew Bayley]

Davy,

Yeah, I was a little skeptical at first when I saw the fuel injection. Especially at the tender age of 19 with no experience. Fortunetly, it was much more simpler than I had imagined.

 

Anyway,

The frame clearance is simply the width of the actual frame itself. The cradle that holds both the steering rack and motor mounts bolts to the bottom of the frame. I've compared the '77 280Z crossmember/cradle/what-you-want-to-call-it to the early '74 260Z crossmember and the appeared to be indentical. So I guess I'm just repeating what Ross said, in that the pickup points never changed.

 

-Andy

 

P.S. Get out to the track and show me some time slips!!!

[Kevin Shasteen]

I personally chose a 78z as my approach was simply-if there were any design flaws in the 280 Datsun would have corrected it by then (78 being the last year for the 280z) & the Z is structurally a little more sound than the 240's.

 

I also chose a 2+2 for the addt'l structural integrity. I dont plan on building a monster Z so thrashing it at every stop light isnt in the works; just a nice 600hp...oops sorry; just a nice 350hp engine w/a T-56 is what I'll go with. Something w/a little gidy-up & go & still rides nice. Not to mention the 2+2 has seats for my two Hp hungry Nephews.

 

But, as you all know-at this time I'm still only an inliner

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

[fl327]

hey now hoover has an inliner that will spank a lot of us, not all of us, but a lot of us. but ill have to agree with the 78280z

wont have to do as much to the frame, four deep mobbin always sounds fun, r200 and easier brake upgrades, i think those years hd better brakes, especially the 2+2's, just get rid of the bumpers,(maybe just the front) throw an airdam up there, and get past the smog man and youre coolin!!!

[patzky1]

yeah, for the least amount of mods go with the 280Z. they are stronger (slightly) and will be easier to find, being the most numerous 1st gen. out there. Also, they have the round dashes. I believe the 280ZX of 1979 was the first to have the flat dash.

hope this helps

Patrick

[Andrew Bayley]

I'll agree with what DavyZ said...

except for the wiring comment on earlier Z's.

 

My early '74 260Z had all of it's smog wiring intigrated into the main harness. This became a major p.i.t.a when it came time to pull out all unused wires. I eventually wound up rewiring everything in front of the fire wall. Not something I'd ever want to do again.

 

The 75 - 78 280's, on the other hand, conveiniently had their engine wiring seperated from the main wiring harness (lights, turn signals, horn, etc...). All the engine wires went back to the computer in the drivers floor area. In fact, the only wires that didn't have a home after I removed the fuel injected L28 was an ignition line and a ground (I think, that was over five years ago).

 

One other feature that is often overlooked, is the fact that the 280z is dimensionally larger than the 240z. There is about 1.2 - 2 inches more space between the framerails on the 280's. This extra space makes things like the radiator and transmission a little easier to install. However, they do come with a few extra pounds. Most of the added weight comes with the large 5 mph bumpers, but there is also additional strucural support that help tip the scales.

 

IMHO

I'd recommend a 75-78 280Z for anyone doing a first time, or non-intensive, swap. I've done two 77's, one early '74 and an early '71 and the 77's were by far the easiest.

 

Good luck, and keep us informed.

 

-Andy

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks guys! So the 2+2 is the more preferred car? What, besides having 4 seats in it is the difference between the coupe and 2+2?

[Andrew Bayley]

The 2+2 is a larger car in just about every dimension. The biggest thing, is the longer wheel base of the 2+2. The next most noticable difference is the flattened roof line of the 2+2 (the couple is more curved). Also, because of the flattened roof, the hatch is more vertical and is slightly smaller. I don't want to step on any one's toe's about which is better, or why... but it mostly comes down to personal preference. The Coupe or the 2+2 will both hold up equally fine with a V8 swap. After that it's again, personal preference. Personally, I choose the Coupe because I liked how the body lines flowed verse the 2+2. Again, this is my preference.

Good Luck in your search.

 

-Andy

[Guest Anonymous]

I agree on the 2+2, although perhaps one day I'll put one together for the wife (women like backseats so they can hall they're catty friends around haha..), I prefer the looks of the coupe's. The extended roofline looks a little disproportionate to the rest of the car IMHO. As Andy said, personal opinion, don't get me wrong, theres not a Z I don't like, I'm just a little warmer for the coupe's more sportscar size proportions.

 

Lone

[fl327]

the 2+2 is the infamous datsun station wagon Z!!!

[Kevin Shasteen]

Weight is also something to consider; the coupes are usually what-in the 2700 to 2800 range while the 2+2's are in the 3000lbs range.

 

If you want all out performance you'ld probably be better going w/the coupe-but I like the extra room of the 2+2 after the rear seat is folded down.

 

It is a personal matter; so check out the difference in the two & make a choice. There isnt one Z owner that wont admire your car-regardless of body design you choose.

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

[DavyZ]

Yeah, it comes down to taste: chocolate or vanilla, black or white, tastes great or less filling, that kind of thing. You can't go wrong with either, but make sure you get a coupe !!!!! LOL

 

David

[Guest Jeff Rimmer]

Alright now I believe that I have a 77 280Z 2+2, but I am honestly not all that sure. It has no floor (Due to rust) and had no seats in the rear but I believe they coul'dve been removed for the enormous speaker box which was there. It still does have a still does have a hump coming down from the elevated floor area in the rear, would that have bee for the seats?

 

If this is infact a 2+2, am I really going to notice handling differences? how much larger is the wheel base? is there definitie suspension diferences i.e. control arms etc?

 

Thanks

Jeff

[Kevin Shasteen]

As far as I know-the control arms are the same; when I bought my Suspension Kit from Courtesy Nissan/they told me the kit is the same for a 2+2 as it is for a coupe; the only break from bushing sizes were from year to year and not from body style to body style w/in the same year.

 

The quickest easiest way to determine a 2+2 from a coupe, at a distance, is to look at the rear 1/4 glass window; if the back of the 1/4glass is angled toward the front of the car then it is a 2+2. If the rear of the 1/4 glass is angled toward the rear of the car then you have a Coupe.

 

Also on a 2+2 the rear 1/4 glass is hinged allowing it to open for venting while I believe the coupe is fix'd and cant be opened (dont exactly remember about the coupe's 1/4 glass being fixed as its been about 14 years since I owned a coupe).

 

Also; the next best way to confirm a coupe from a 2+2 is the VIN#; for a coupe the VIN# should read S30 while the 2+2 reads GS30 at the beginning of the VIN#.

 

About the handling difference; I personally think it would be like the difference between a GM Blazer & a GM Suburban; in other words the coupe's ride may be a little bouncier while the longer wheelbase is slightly smoother...only on a much smaller scale than the Blazer/Suburban comparison.

 

I feel the 2+2 will probably have a slight smoother ride due to its slightly longer wheelbase, @ 8.5" longer.

 

Remember tho; the approximate 8.5" extra length translates into an additional 200lbs.

 

My personal thoughts are that the extra weight of the 2+2 will better accept the pounding of a SBC/SBF prior to needing a roll cage as the 2+2 is has a slightlier stiffer body. However, if you're planning on pounding the heck out of a Z by installing a V8-then you'ld be much better off installing that roll cage-reagardless of having a 2+2 or a coupe.

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still a 2+2 Inliner)

 

[ April 27, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]