rudypoochris Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 Thanks for filling me in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Scottie: try here for the disconnect...http://www.remcotowing.com/drive_shaft.php From the looks of it - it has more and bigger teeth than axle splines, since they are the approximate diameter of the driveshaft, so should be fine. As I said, had it on a '72 Old 98 w/455 >400 ft/lbs and 4600 lb car, and believe me, we USED all of it at times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 Would need to get more details on that coupler but I see a couple of issues with it. First, it says "starts at $695" and i doubt that setup could fit inside my torque arm setup. The torque arm setup is the reason why the driveshaft is not easily removed. Here is a picture of the torque arm setup and as you look at that, imaging it with a bigger 3" od driveshaft. A 4600# Olds with a 455 and 400 lb/ft torque is nowhere close to a 700hp turbo car leaving the line @ 5000 and 15-20psi boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich K Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 Hey guys, I got my old NMW freewheeling hubs out and want to repack and clean the bearings. Does anybody know how they come apart? I see a screw with a roll pin in the back. Do you drive the roll pan forward and then back the screw out, then once you get it a part drive or pull the roll pan completely out? Only get one shot at this and don’t want to ruin my tow hubs. Thanks very much in advance! Rich ‘73 stroker RoadRunner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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