Flapjack Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Well, with the help of Performance Auto here in town, my 280Z is finally drivable (and streetable) with the sb350. The only problem is hood clearance. I can latch it, but it won't close all the way. The guy that did my custom engine mounts just didn't do it right. It's too much work go try and rectify that, so I'm looking for ways to get the air cleaner to fit, or find a cowl hood that'll work. I've searched online (and in the forums) for hoods, but had little luck. The other option is if I can find an air cleaner that somehow fits. I've already tried the 14" Edelbrock low-drop air cleaner, as well as the POS triangular Edelbrock one. It's close, but no cigar. On a search of the forums, I found someone who posted a Moroso air cleaner that had a pretty decent drop, but it was for a 2-bbl Holley carb. Here's some specs on the car: - sb350 (1968) - Edelbrock Performer intake - Edelbrock 600 carb - 14" Edelbrock low-drop air cleaner I'd really appreciate any help in finding a solution. I really don't mind a cowl hood, as I need to do a ton of work and get the car repainted as it is.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Sweet looking hood. A little more than I'd like. I recently found a cowl hood that added about 2" of clearance or so that was just enough to be different without being overpowering. Good luck, I personally love that CF hood. I'd be all over it if I didn't have the one I've got now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 did you use the 1/2 inch body spacers as described by JTR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flapjack Posted April 10, 2008 Author Share Posted April 10, 2008 http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/index.html Thanks for the link! That is not a bad price at all. Two questions, though: 1) What is a "pin-on" installation (probably a dumb question), and... 2) What is the "optional fiberglass OEM style inner mounting frame" for? Sweet looking hood. A little more than I'd like. I recently found a cowl hood that added about 2" of clearance or so that was just enough to be different without being overpowering. Good luck, I personally love that CF hood. I'd be all over it if I didn't have the one I've got now Yes, it is a bit of a rise. I only need 1-2". Probably 2", just to be on the safe side. Where did you find the 2" cowl hood? did you use the 1/2 inch body spacers as described by JTR? It's been so long since I read the JTR book, that I have no idea if we did that or not. At any rate, it's in the past. There have been a ton of "should haves" with this build... but I'm just trying to get around the mistakes without having to redo everything. The motor mounting, while a bit high, is very solid and very well done. I have no issues with it, so I'm loathe to mess with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 280ZForce Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 also check... not sure how much cowl you need http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101130 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 "Pin-on" means four pins holding the hood on the car. The OEM style inner frame is needed if you plan to use the front hood hinges. A 4" rise is fairly tall and I made it that way for some of the crazier swaps being done on this site. JC Whitney and others were already making 2" rise cowl hoods for the 240Z so it didn't make sense to enter that crowded market. This is what is looks like sitting in t he driver's seat of a 240Z: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 It's been so long since I read the JTR book, that I have no idea if we did that or not. At any rate, it's in the past. There have been a ton of "should haves" with this build... but I'm just trying to get around the mistakes without having to redo everything. The motor mounting, while a bit high, is very solid and very well done. I have no issues with it, so I'm loathe to mess with them. Those spacers give you added hood clearance. They lower the engine mounts away from the hood. My car has plenty of clearance without the spacers with a standard 14 inch filter with half inch dropped base. Besides installing the spacers is a 30 minute to an hour job, just make sure you have longer bolts before you put them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bry593 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 the moroso air cleaner is the lowest you can get in a 14" element. however, if you tried that little triangle foam element job, and it didn't work, then the moroso won't work either. here's what you need to do. put an air cleaner on the car, and then put little cylindrical pieces of clay on top of the lid. close your hood and pinpoint the tight areas. based on this, you can tell whether the 1/2" spacers between the crossmember and unibody frame rails will be sufficient. if not, you have no choice but to revise the mounts (or go cowl hood). by the way, you may be running a performer rpm manifold. this is a full 1/2 taller than a standard performer. so maybe, you could swap manifolds, throw in the spacers and be where you need to be. i resist the temptation to put a fiberglass hood on my Z. my past experiences with aftermarket glass is that it requires lots of trimming, does not work well with factory hardware, and doesn't fit. chopped polyester tends to warp if pulled out of the mold while hot. i haven't tried the Z hood, my experience is with early camaros. eventually, someone will make a decent glass scoop/cowl/etc that will match the Z's lines and be a rivet from underneath with aluminum backer. This would require a mult-piece mold to have the negative (reverse flanges) for a clean install. bonding fiberglass to metal, it just don't work... at least not for long (unless you use expoxy). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280Zone Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I think my fiberglass hood is at least worth consideration; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101130 I can have them fabricated thicker if the customer prefers that. I have seen several fiberglass hoods (as well as other parts) that exhibit the issues you mentioned. Which is why I tried to go the extra mile to provide a quality product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bry593 Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 I think my fiberglass hood is at least worth consideration i agree, that is the sharpest aftermarket Z hood i've seen. the Z28 style works well with the original lines. i really dislike extra tall and squarish cowls. they just look awkward on a Z. that's good that you have the innerstructure. its gotta be there for rigidity, longevity (resists sag) and is the only way you can keep the factory hinges and latch. did you put doublers in the hinge and latch area? are you having pretty good success with contours matching the fenders? with the z, the nose isn't so much a bother since it doesn't meet with an adjacent panel. how much clearance does this buy you over the factory hood? is this gel/chopper or gel/mat? i used to design and manage a composite tooling shop, but we were aircraft (epoxy, autoclave). anyway, the hood looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flapjack Posted April 12, 2008 Author Share Posted April 12, 2008 My local shop is going to put the spacer in sometime soon. I'll do the clay test after that. I really like 280Zone's hood, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flapjack Posted April 13, 2008 Author Share Posted April 13, 2008 @280Zone I have a question... the hood looks great, but in some of the pictures, I see the cowl has the original straight line right underneath it. How does that do anything for clearance? ...or is that just one way of making the hood, for those that want the scoop, but don't need the extra clearance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280Zone Posted April 13, 2008 Share Posted April 13, 2008 Looks like i missed a couple of questions, did you put doublers in the hinge and latch area? The hinge area is a new design and very "beefed" up. The rear latch area can also be made as thick as the customer desires. It is important we discuss you specific needs before ordering. are you having pretty good success with contours matching the fenders? Some have matched better than others but loads better than I have seen with most fiberglass hoods. how much clearance does this buy you over the factory hood? I can't answer that exactly but can provide memasurements based on my V8 configuration and mounts. Chopper or mat? The hoods are made with hand laid fiber mat and epoxy resin. I see the cowl has the original straight line right underneath it. How does that do anything for clearance? That piece is what allows you to use the stock latch mechanism and provides rigidity. It should not give you any clearance issues unless you REALLY moved your engine back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flapjack Posted April 13, 2008 Author Share Posted April 13, 2008 Ok, thanks for the answers. My hood latch and hinges are stock. I have no idea what a "doubler" is. I'll take some pictures today. Started snowing yesterday, so I went back inside. I'll also post a pic of the area of the hood where the air cleaner (with the cap mounted upside down) is hitting the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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