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Clutch selection - T56


BLKMGK

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I mentioned this in the Chevy forum but I'll open it up here too. I looked more closely at my OEM clutch disk today and I'm not happy with what I'm seeing. The rivets just look too darned close to the friction surface and I've decided not to risk my Centerforce flywheel ($$!). The pressure plate looks okay bu thaving never had one resurfaced I don't know if that's even possible - is it? Can I simply replace the disk?

 

The Jeg's catalog lists the size of the disk and the splines. I know the pressure plate is "funky" but could a standard SBC clutch of th eright size and spline be used? I do NOT want to pour $500+ into the clutch if I can help it! As light as my car is something close to OEM ought to work. Who makes a good replacement? Should I swap the pressure plate too? I've never done a clutch where I didn't swap them as a pair and I'm brand new to GM stuff. Suggestions and guidance please! smile.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I bought the Ram clutch from summit for like 299.99. But its the whole smear, disk, bearing and PP. Its supposedly of OEM quality or slightly better. As was mentioned elsewhere, there is the option of having a rebuilder put new material on yours, not sure what that would cost. Could contact the clutch makers and see if they sell just the disks, you used to be able to get OEM clutches that way. FWIW.

 

 

Lone

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Dang it! I went through their catalog last night and thought I'd found one. However earlier tonight I went back through looking and couldn't find it again!

 

Please tell me, what part number was that sucker and where in the catalog? That's not as cheap as I'd like but it would be pressure plate and all - for less than the Centerforce unit.

 

TIA!

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Thanks Lone, after I posted this I stumbled across it in the NEWEST Summit - apparently they've just begun listing it. Should be here tomorrow smile.gif I'd have responded sooner to thank you but I got either food poisoning or the flu and am just now cathcing up.

 

For $300 that clutch sounds liek a great deal. Pressure plate, clutch disk, TO bearing, and alignment tool! Wish I could do that well with a clutch for the RX7...

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Just to let you guys know that my brother has a RAM clutch in his talon AWD. I was not to impressed with it, it is an on/off button with no slipping allowed . The pressure plate was a stock one, and had very thin friction material . It chatters once and a while too after hard driving .

 

Not very impressed, IMHO I think CFDF is worth the extra $$.

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I have the CFDF and it works well, but $516 is a bit steep in my opinion for any clutch. I was stuck, remember I've had mine in my car since 1998, so little info and almost no parts were available. What I can tell you about the CFDF unit is that it hooks with no slip. My gates on the shifter are real close and it is real hard to tell when you are in 3rd vs. 1st and I've pulled out in 3rd with no trouble at all, no smelling and smoking of the clutch. That said... I'd investigate some of the others like Mcleode and others...

 

Mike

 

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"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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The Mitsu's were famed for trashing their diffs and their clutches - the reason? Seems they're heavy pigs! smile.gif I'm not real sure on weight but I think it's up near 4K, ouch!

 

Ordered my clutch Monday, it showed up today smile.gif Sprung hub, normal organic clutch. It's billed as an OEM replacement clutch by RAM. Considering that the OEM clutch is supposed to take 400HP in a car that weighs considerably more than a Z I think it'll be fine. Heck, if the stock clutch had been in good shape I'd have used it! Remember, the OEM application weighs in at like 3300-3500lbs, our Zs ought to be in the 2500lb range.

 

We'll see here pretty soon I guess. $500+ just seems like highway robbery and is what they charge for RX7 clutches too darn it. Just seems awful high to me.

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Guest Anonymous

Ram makes several versions of the clutches. The one I put in looks exactly like the original, its a stock replacement clutch.

They do make some that have stiffer springs, and probably some with no springs in the middle. Clutches with no center drive cushion springs or springs that are very stiff are typically as you say 'on or off' without much slipperage.

I'll report on it more when I've got it running.

 

 

Regards,

 

Lone

 

[This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited February 28, 2001).]

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Regarding the factory clutch set up; My brother's Mitsubishi 3000 Vr4 TT had his clutch go out on him (same Trans-different bell housing). The dealer told him, Yea, you can upgrade it but we cant do that here.

 

They sent him to a local shop here in Dallas that specialized in that model; they turned/lightened his flywheel. They also told my brother no more feathering of the clutch that it is made for harsh engagement w/out addt'l wear-n-tear....sounds like the few xtra bucks would be worth it if it takes the abuse w/out failure!

 

After saying that; I do believe my brother went w/an after market heavier duty clutch. I dont remember which one but he said he loves the set up now! (Guess I'll have to find out which set up he went with).

 

Kevin

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 28, 2001).]

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I know this subject has been discussed numerous times but it appears an aftermarket clutch has finally been developed for the LT1/LS1 and T56 tranny. I sure this also applies to a stock 350 engine but not positive. In this months issue of GM High-Tech Performance magazine they ran a story (continuation buildup) on a LT1 coined Thunderchicken (yellow '93 Firebird with a highly modified LT1 - only in my dreams!). Anyway to make this short the authors were having all kinds of drive line problems - bent drive shafts, totaled rearend, vibrations etc. but were never able to fix the high shift effort needed to shift between gears at high RPM or even at lower speeds. The authors received a call from David Norton of Star Performance Engineered Clutches in Hueytown, Alabama and it appears Thunderchicken shifting woes are over. These guys are raving about this new clutch. STAR offers 4 different clutch packages from stage 1($379) to Stage 4($649). For TC they chose stage 3 ($499) which has 420RWH, stage 3 is rated up to 500RWH.

 

"Before changing the clutch we measured the effort it took to shift into second gear. We usedd a digital scale and found the max effort (engine running) to be 36 lbs.! This contrasts sharply with the effort it takes without the engine running, which was 7 lbs. After the Star clutch installation, we measured the shift effort again and the highest effort required was 10 lbs. -a reduction in effort of 72%! This reduction in shift effort is directly related to the fact that the clutch is no longer dragging on the flywheel surface when the clutch is depressed."

 

The article goes on to say why other aftermarket clutches fail where the Star clutch excels. Mostly, these other clutches pressure plates overpower the master and slave cylinders, the air gap is reduced because more material on the clutch is used then the OEM had intended (ok on a push type clutch but not on a pull clutch). And the big one - not enough study or research has been done to really understand the T56 clutch mechanism.

 

STAR PERFORMANCE ENGINEERED CLUTCHES

3420 Davey Allison Blvd.

Hueytown, AL 35023

800/828-4379

 

Danno74Z

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