VB/Black Dragon electric hatch solenoid

[240Z2NV]

If any of you have photo-documented a successful, reliable install I am certain that there would be many VERY appreciative Hybriders that would love to learn about it.

I, for one, am at a stage in my paint prep where I need to decide SOON if I will have a lock button or french it over. I would really prefer to 'french' it, and have the release mechanism inside. A former Hybrider who is helping me with the custom paint/bodywork mentioned using a 240SX cable system.

I realize that this thread is about electronic systems; but, personally, I would love to see all [functional] options.

I will continue to Search now.......

[HLS30-08077]

If any of you have photo-documented a successful, reliable install I am certain that there would be many VERY appreciative Hybriders that would love to learn about it. I realize that this thread is about electronic systems; but, personally, I would love to see all [functional] options.

I will continue to Search now.......

 

While Me and Stan have been writing back and forth about the whole Door Popper, hatch popper, electric window thing, I came up with an idea and put words and thoughts into practice.

 

I went down to the 260Z and backed it into the garage. Popped the hatch and started tearing the assemblies apart. I removed the lock, the latch assm and started thinking. I do this stuff for a living and putting enough torque in a downward motion would have to come from an enlarging cam or a downward pull. So I bent a 3/32" rod with a 45* bend and it basically looks similar to this.... _/_ but with a 45 instead of the 120? degrre bend shown. after the bend, it'll be about 1 inch long (1/8" then 3/8" then 3/8" then 1/8"

 

I used an 11 LB cable pull hatch/trunk popper.

 

If you look in the hole of the hatch that the latch came out of, you'll see a metal lip (about 1/8" tall) to the right of the opening. Grind that lip down so that the cable of the 11 or 15 lb actuator can slide in that area.

 

Weld the bent rod parrellel to that ground area as shown. Then drill a hole in the push tab of the latch as shown. (hardened steel but a good bit will do it) I also used a dremmel with a thin cutting disc to make the opening for the cable to slide thru and into place. I also drilled a cone shape into the tab for the cable to sit in.

 

On the cable, I put it in the Vice and left 1/4" up and exposed. I used my mig welder and just tapped the top of the cable to get my feed to ball up, then I tapped it again to get that weld ball to attach to the cable. I repeated this until I was happy with the end result. (a steel ball on the end of the cable.)

 

I then slipped the cable thru the bend of the welded rod and out thru the latch hole, so I could slide the cable thru the cut on the tab and into the hole. Keeping a slight tension on the cable, I slid the Latch into its hole and bolted it down. I then used a screwdriver to "Latch" the lock of the latch? This puts the tab of the lock in an upward position.

 

Then I slid the cable Popper into the Hatch near the underside of the emblems. Marked the holes of the Actuators clamp, and bolted the actuator mount down. I then slid the actuator into the clamp and gave the cable just a little tension. Then I moved the actuator forward to give the cable a little Slack (to give the actuator a running start and this gives the cable a "tug" so to speak) Then tightened it down into the clamp.

 

I wired it up and tested it with ONLY A 9 VOLT battery and it worked like a charm. So as you can guess, it kicked arss with 12 volts.

 

This set-up, with the cable being mounted as shown, on the tab of the latch, also allows for flawless use of the stock Hatch lock button. There is NO interferance what-so-ever. But you can still "Shave" the lock if you want.

 

Hope this helps some and does'nt confuse too many. It took a few hours to complete but that was because it was all Xperimental at the time.

 

Run the wires thru the frame of the hatch, over towards either defrost cable and drill a hole to pull the wires out and connect it to a fused switch or keyless entry system.

 

Dave.

 

I'll post a video on you tube of the "POP" and link it

 

[HLS30-08077]

On my 240Z, I inverted the latch. ie; put it on the bottom and put the catch rod up top (on the hatch.) I don't suggest this to anyone as it's a P.I.T.A. and hard to adjuust properly. I dremmeled a hole in the license plate light assembly and it's released by putting your finger in the hole and pushing upwards.

 

I've also included pictures of a proper time tested "Compact door lock actuator" instal and a SPAL power window instal, both in my 240Z. If you ZOOM in on the rear of the Z picture, you'll see a slight hole in the license plate light, just under the latch area of the hatch (dead center)

 

Dave.

[RB26powered74zcar]

Dave, I admire your talent for designing these great mods to the Z car...

 

If I lived close to you, I'd gladly pay you to do these cool things to my ride!

[240Z2NV]

It is people like Dave, Tim240Z, Owen, John Coffey, Grumpyvette, MikeKelly, Jon Mortenson, Terry, Mike, Ernie and many more whom I have failed to mention that have made this site, and this community what it is [no disrespect to those omitted, I'm just in a dehydration fog right now]. The sharing of knowledge, the willingness to stop and take a moment to help, and share in the accomplishments of one another.

 

I've never felt like this was a competition, I love it when someone comes up with a really great idea, or product, or service. Dave is 'THE Man' if you need to get electronic components, improved harnesses, LED light conversions, etc. and to make it so much better he has an incredible amount of experience with OUR CARS....plus, he's not out to get "Medieval on your arse" [see 'Pulp Fiction'] by marking up items for ridiculous profit in hard economic times. You contact some site on the web and that person doesn't know a 240Z from an S10.

 

Anyway, I got so excited that Dave took the time to consider my query and do his best to solve my predicament...in the spirit of community, not expecting anything out of it.... I'm very, very grateful to people like him and so many others here...

[HLS30-08077]

Alright guys, Stop!!! I'm blushing over here....

 

But seriously, I appreciate the compliments. I do what I do because I love to help others, I love a good challenge and most of all, I LOVE Z CARS. I really enjoy finding the answers to the questions that plague us as Z owners. What part fits what, how can I improve this, how can I make it safer and faster at the same time? That last one's a funny one.

 

I've done upgrades for the headlights, parking lights, Honda wipers, power windows, power door locks, ZX alternator adaptor plug, sidemarker/blinker conversion plugs, and the latest is the Hatch Popper (thanks to Stan.)

 

I still feel like I need to do more. You know? Leave my mark on Sociaty. Or something like that. I just want to grow old knowing that I did something for someone other than myself or my family. OK, this is getting mushy again. I'm done.

 

Next issue?

Dave.

[greghassen]

Does anyone have pictures of their power door lock actuators? i'm having a heluva time finding a place for mine.

I bought the kit from VB which uses the universal el cheapo actuator. The actuator is very big and everywhere I

place it, it interferes with something. the 280z doors have only one place to attach the actuator to the

door lock rod and get a straight pull but it interferes with the door panel.