Andrew Bayley Posted March 28, 2001 Share Posted March 28, 2001 Hi all, I know I've asked this question before, but I've been at my whit's ends lately. I'm trying to convert over to CV's, but I've been unsuccessful due to the fact that I can not get the flange's out of the R200. I've heard stories of a nut that holds these things in place. Nope, no retaining nut on these flanges. Also, I've heard these flanges are supposed to "slide" out. Well, I've pulled pretty dang hard and they won't even budge. I'm just wondering if I'm losing my mind, or if I got an R200 with immovable differential flanges. Somebody please help me...! Thanks, -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 28, 2001 Share Posted March 28, 2001 With mine, I just used a BIG screwdriver (biggest I had) as a lever, placing it carefully between the diff casing and the yoke of the shaft and with a bit of levering out they popped. But, as I said, obviously be careful when you choose your levering points. Don't damage seals/collars/etc. And apologies if I'm stating the obvious but this is all done after you've disconnected the shaft at the "wheel" end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John C Posted March 29, 2001 Share Posted March 29, 2001 Andrew, Insert a large pry bar between the dif case and your flange, give it a quick snap sideways.This should disengage the snap ring that holds the flange into the side gear. John C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted March 29, 2001 Share Posted March 29, 2001 I love that "Hope this is Obvious" as if the obvious isnt always obvious(?) until someone points out to us how "Obvious" it is that we overlooked the "Obvious". Never, pulled the axles off from the diff.side on a Z; however, anytime metal is tight that should slide but doesnt-try some liquid wrench for a week. Everytime you get up in the morning....go spray some liquid wrench on it. Then when you come home after work at the end of the day....go spray some more on; hopefully at the end of the week when you're ready to attempt the pulling/leveraging;-the silly axles will slide out! If not keep squirting the liquid wrench till you break thru; sounds like your axle is sticking from old age weathering of road grime/oil residue/expansion-contraction of getting hot then cold. I had a driveshaft do that once on an Olds 98 behind a 455 w/200k miles on it; probably never been off. I couldnt get it off no matter what I did. Ended up pulling the driveshaft w/the eng & trans(?); that was definately interesting! Only after I got it out could I apply the proper leverage myself to disconnect the driveshaft from the trans! Hope that offers a little encouragement! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted March 31, 2001 Share Posted March 31, 2001 I have to respectfully disagree Kevin on liquid wrench into diff stub axle interfaces. Unless you plan to fully flush the diff after etc you don't know what influence this 'oil' may have on your diff/seals/clutch packs etc. Easiest method I've found (yeah/used screwdrivers/bent some...) is to use a halfshaft as a slide hammer....easiest if diff is out of the car, compress halfshaft and give it a good tug uncompressing it, 2 tugs max have always pulled out the stub nicely for me. Otherwise if in the car a good prybar as mentioned under that flange and even two to get a more 'even' pull as it is a tighter tolerance fit like your rear axles (not that tight but the idea). It's only a snap-ring inside that you need to dislodge from it's location but it can take a lot of effort (assuming splines aren't rusted/corroded in place/never found that yet on MANY diffs). HTH ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 31, 2001 Share Posted March 31, 2001 Had the same problem pulling my halfshafts - I thought maybe there was a bolt I'd missed. After recieving advice here I slipped a crowbar under the flange edge and gave it a quick jerk - out it popped! Just had to get a little leverage is all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 1, 2001 Share Posted April 1, 2001 You probably don't want to use the halfshaft to pull on if it's a CV shaft - many manuals for cars with CV shafts say this is a no-no - it will hose the joints, boots at least. Maybe the 280ZX T shafts are sturdier like this, I dunno... ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted April 1, 2001 Share Posted April 1, 2001 quote: Originally posted by pparaska: You probably don't want to use the halfshaft to pull on if it's a CV shaft - many manuals for cars with CV shafts say this is a no-no - it will hose the joints, boots at least. Maybe the 280ZX T shafts are sturdier like this, I dunno... well I've never had an inkling of a problem with my UJ shafts I used before or the CV's I have now, I have a spare set of each just for safe keeping, most likely for when a boot finally cracks on me. It was the UJ ones that I've used that way to yank the stubs on 'old' diffs I'm checking out, if my own or those I own and am doing some work for shipping then a prybar twitch pops them out happily everytime. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Bayley Posted April 2, 2001 Author Share Posted April 2, 2001 Thanks a lot for the advise guys. Per most everyones advice, I went out and bought a B.F.C.B. (c.b. = crow bar). Well, I pried, and pried, and pried, and pried... but to no avail, the damn things never popped out. I'm thinking I need to slide hammer them out, but my patience is wearing thin. Anyone have an R200 with the stub flanges already out? It would be nice to have a "spare" diff. Please send me an E-mail if anyone has an extra diff they'd like to gid of. The local bone yard want's $150 for a beat to heck unit. I didn't think that was a very good deal I guess I need to keep looking. Till then, I'm going to give the slide hammer a try. If that doesn't work, I'm going to just keep using the U-joints until I can find another diff. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted April 3, 2001 Share Posted April 3, 2001 Maybe try wacking the flange (lightly) with a hammer. Could be that the snap ring is somehow jammed. Perhaps a few wacks would knock it loose? Also, the prying definately needs to be quick. If you just apply force evenly, it doesn't work as well. Needs to be a quick, violent jerk at the prybar. You gotta sneak up on it. ------------------ 240Z.jeromio.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted April 6, 2001 Share Posted April 6, 2001 is this in the car or out of the car? did you bolt a halfshaft to it and give it a couple quick snaps? it's not a 'gradual' thing, but a v. strong/quick snap like killing chickens I'd guess ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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