Jesse OBrien Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 I just started the very long process of rewiring my entire car. When I got it, the entire fuse box was bypassed, as far as I could tell. The headlights and electric fan were wired into two switches going directly from the battery + while the ignition module was largely bypassed or completely hacked into. Four wires were spliced into the ACC slot (and not all together, they were basically rolled into a ball and electrical taped onto the main ACC wire) of the ignition. I'm tired of this, and a little tired of our reliance on bits of metal called 'keys' as our primary security measure. I'm totally going 'keyless' for my daily driver. What I'm planning is to have a 2-way ACC switch, a numbered keypad, and the lighter as my primary electrical solutions. Hear me out: ACC Switch: I'll wire this up where my choke was (I believe I have electric choke on the Edelbrock carb on my V8), and hopefully get a switch that looks like the original choke. This will connect to the ACC relay, and turn on all my accessories (light circuit, guages, etc). Numbered Keypad: Hidden in the drive channel compartment is my replacement for a key. I may end up using a PDA that gets powered up when the ACC switch is triggered, or I'll get a microcontroller-powered keypad. I may do a 3-digit ignition code, or a 5-digit, or a 20-digit (depending on how safe the neighborhood is ). This puts me into RUN mode (HEI distributor gets power). START ENGINE button: What could possibly be more clean and clear than a button dedicated to start the motor? I don't use my lighter, so I'm going to convert that over to a button (keeping the lighter itself cosmetically identical) that leads to a relay which engages the starter motor. I'll have to figure something out to keep the damned thing from STAYING in (meaning the starter keeps turning) when I press it, but other than that I think it's a great, clean way to start the car. To start: Flip ACC switch Slide open the coin space and input key in keypad press lighter This will effectively make the car much more difficult to steal (no wiring on the steering column) and much more interesting all-around. Potential issues: I'm a bit worried about a few things here. Namely: What are the specs on the ACC relay, and what's actually wired into it? Where can I get a good switch that looks like the stock choke lever? Would it be easier to just take any average switch and jbweld the choke lever to the switch arm? How is the stock ignition module (the piece you stick the key into) wired up? There are 5 wires, and one definitely goes directly to the starter. What about the other 4? I looked through my Helm's manual and couldn't find a good diagram of how it's broken down. Everything that I'm missing right now. Of course I'm not going to be able to forsee everything. Maybe you can help me to prevent running into big problems (like fire)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 By the way, a numbered keypad "kill switch" kit is about $30 when I last priced them out. It's basically a programmable keypad that triggers a relay. I guess I'm not that imaginative, as this is exactly what I was going to do in my car, except instead of an ACC switch, I was going to have a battery kill switch with a removable switch. Mario Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 28, 2008 Author Share Posted April 28, 2008 By the way, a numbered keypad "kill switch" kit is about $30 when I last priced them out. It's basically a programmable keypad that triggers a relay. I guess I'm not that imaginative, as this is exactly what I was going to do in my car, except instead of an ACC switch, I was going to have a battery kill switch with a removable switch. Mario Mario Almost everything that's worth doing has already been done. The Transporter was where I originally got the idea (a few years ago) but dismissed it as being unrealistic. Now, looking at what I've got in the car, not doing something fun and interesting would be unrealistic. I could also do a fingerprint reader: (http://www.directindustry.com/prod/wison-techology/fingerprint-reader-for-vehicle-applications-38178-323775.html) or an aircraft style switch: to start the car. Or something new car manufacturers are using now and do a bluetooth identification thing, where you just need to have your key NEAR the ignition, not in it. That only solves some of the problems I have, and doesn't suit the Z very well, IMHO. I've toyed with using a bluetooth keypad from a computer or an old(ish) cellphone for ignition, but I think I'm going to end up using a fairly generic touchpad or PDA inside the center console slot. New anti-theft feature! I might even add a couple wires in the space the ignition would be in, so if someone DOES try to hotwire it, it'll engage an alarm (I know, I'm a bastard... a thief expects to hear the car fire up, and is rewarded with an alarm instead). I'd even leave a key in the ignition, so no wires would need to be cut. Just turn the key, get the alarm. Nobody should be turning the key anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rztmartini Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 I might even add a couple wires in the space the ignition would be in, so if someone DOES try to hotwire it, it'll engage an alarm (I know, I'm a bastard... a thief expects to hear the car fire up, and is rewarded with an alarm instead). I'd even leave a key in the ignition, so no wires would need to be cut. Just turn the key, get the alarm. Nobody should be turning the key anyway. now that is sadistic...but fun to think about. it might backfire on you as more people who would be temped to steal (break a window, etc) will be encouraged by seeing the key in there already. fun to think about but why tempt them? the fingerprint scanner is a bad@$$ idea tho. My ign. switch is no longer exclusive to one key (just about any sharp object you can wedge in there will turn her on...) and i was trying to think of creative ideas to keep the Z in my possesion. please keep us updated on which you go with and take lots of pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 28, 2008 Author Share Posted April 28, 2008 now that is sadistic...but fun to think about. it might backfire on you as more people who would be temped to steal (break a window, etc) will be encouraged by seeing the key in there already. fun to think about but why tempt them? the fingerprint scanner is a bad@$$ idea tho. My ign. switch is no longer exclusive to one key (just about any sharp object you can wedge in there will turn her on...) and i was trying to think of creative ideas to keep the Z in my possesion. please keep us updated on which you go with and take lots of pics! You can ALWAYS count on pics. To see what's been done so far, you can always visit my page: ProjectCRX (name pending, if you have any ideas, let me know). As for windows being broken, I have hood pins holding my rear hatch down (actually only one hood pin, the other fell off while I was driving it home) and it rains seldom enough that I generally just leave the windows down when I walk away. I have nothing worth stealing in the car (and really, the car itself isn't worth stealing), and I always stick to the 'outrun the bear' philosophy. Basically, the 'outrun the bear' philosophy consists of parking next to a car that is at least twice as attractive as mine. That means '60s mustangs, miatas, civics, etc (cars that are the most likely to be parted out on the black market with no questions asked) commonly see my car next to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyZ Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 If someone sees the key, they break into your car. How hard would it be to hotwire your car just by bypassing your keypad? It'll probably be even easier to get to the wires, too. Granted, a potential thief would be thrown off and not know what to look for so that's probably good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 How hard would it be to hotwire your car just by bypassing your keypad? It'll probably be even easier to get to the wires, too. That's what I've always wondered about. How hard is it to just pull the keypad off wherever it's mounted and connect the right wires together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJayHoward Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 As for windows being broken, I have hood pins holding my rear hatch down Thieves are generally stupid. My Jeep didn't lock at all, but the would-be thieves broke the window to get in anyway. Are you planning on implementing any sort of steering column locking device? Do you have a stereo of any kind? Aftermarket seats? Anything at all that would-be-thieves would take? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 That's what I've always wondered about. How hard is it to just pull the keypad off wherever it's mounted and connect the right wires together? Same can be said about the ignition switch. Thats why I'd do the keypad with another momentary kill switch. The keypad "arms" the fuel pump, and the momentary allows the starter or fuel pump to actually turn on, or even the ECU. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerAce Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 START ENGINE button: What could possibly be more clean and clear than a button dedicated to start the motor? I don't use my lighter, so I'm going to convert that over to a button (keeping the lighter itself cosmetically identical) that leads to a relay which engages the starter motor. I'll have to figure something out to keep the damned thing from STAYING in (meaning the starter keeps turning) when I press it, but other than that I think it's a great, clean way to start the car. Well, this I can help with. You'll have to change the in-dash components, but all you have to do is make the button spring loaded, so that you hold it down untill the engine catches, release it, and the spring pushes it out to the stock position, AND breaks the electrical contact at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 28, 2008 Author Share Posted April 28, 2008 That's what I've always wondered about. How hard is it to just pull the keypad off wherever it's mounted and connect the right wires together? I may have been misleading when I described the keypad. I'm going to be using a keypad like this: (*edit*:image attached, but linking doesn't seem to work) in the coin tray in the center console (next to the e-brake lever). If I can, I'll run the wiring underneath the metal, just above the transmission. Even if not, I won't leave my wiring diagram in the car (I'm going to have it on my computer and that's about it) so figuring out what's what will be difficult (especially when it's in the center console, hidden away, rather than on the steering column). Also, first priority will be given to standard ignition switch placement, and I'll leave my 'false' wires there, probably wired up to the alarm, possibly wired up more sinisterly (I could wire it up so that the would-be thief becomes the ground for a very strong electrical connection). Thieves are generally stupid. My Jeep didn't lock at all, but the would-be thieves broke the window to get in anyway. Are you planning on implementing any sort of steering column locking device? Do you have a stereo of any kind? Aftermarket seats? Anything at all that would-be-thieves would take? I'm actually going to have quite nice seats, but no stereo whatsoever (I wouldn't be able to hear it over the engine anyway). I may get seat covers or something, because the seats I'm getting are kevlar race seats. However, they're basically going to be welded directly to the floorboards, so stealing them would be quite difficult. I'm going to leave the stock steering lock on there, and simply have the keypad switch it. You do raise a valid concern with aftermarket stuff in the car, and I may even put some kind of tracker in/on the seats (gps sender units aren't really expensive, when compared to $750 seats). Same can be said about the ignition switch. Thats why I'd do the keypad with another momentary kill switch. The keypad "arms" the fuel pump, and the momentary allows the starter or fuel pump to actually turn on, or even the ECU. Mario ECU? Sorry, I forgot to mention that I'm running one of the simplest engines out there. It's a 327ci Chevy v8 (I'm pretty sure about that, it could be a 283) with an HEI distributor and a one-wire alternator. Basically, my engine has 5 wires: 2 for starter, one for distributor, one for tach, and one for alternator. If a thief were smart enough and wanted to spend the time, there's absolutely nothing I could do to keep them from starting this car. However, that's where my steering lock comes into play. As an additional anti-theft device, putting notes in all four tires is generally a good idea. Make sure it has your contact information, identification information (ideally with a photo), and a short note basically saying, "If you service these tires and the car's owner is not the same as the person in these tires, these wheels are stolen. Please contact the police with this information to get these back to their rightful owner!" The best anti-theft device is making your car unattractive to theives (hard-to-sell parts, anything with an identification number, and more attractive targets close-by). Most theft is opportunistic, meaning that you made it easy for someone to steal something. Most thieves wouldn't even know how to put my car in gear! Would you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted April 29, 2008 Author Share Posted April 29, 2008 So, does anybody have or know where I can find a diagram for exactly where each ignition plug is wired? Also, does anybody have specs on the stock relays? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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