rvandivort Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Hi! Saw a post 8 months ago about this. Thought it said removing the v band and then rotating it, and then aligning it with a t3 actuator to a fabricated bracket on the intake manifold would do it. Rather than going back on an intensive searce again--and the fact that the thing is rusted together (mucho WD40 used so far), any advise on this? Am about ready to get a 24" pipe wrench and a vise and break open the thing. Any experience would be appreciated. Thanks a lot, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 first of all switch to PB blaster. Then use lots of heat ie propane torch i used a rubber mallet and then just started tapping it but making sure you keep it square. so you dont bend the blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonZ Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Ditto on the torch. I used one to get the wastegate unstuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCchris Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Hi! Saw a post 8 months ago about this. Thought it said removing the v band and then rotating it The he351 I have has a very small dowell in the face of the Vband to align the two pcs. This needs to be removed before you attempt to rotate it. Ditto on the PB Blaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 Thanks Guys. Guess I`ll get another propane tank and go at it. NCchris,does the hy35w have the same dowel? And where is it? I have the vband totally removed. Ahh , see a flanged out thing at the four o`clock position (or 8 O`C from the connector depending on how you`re looking at it.Unfortunately, I have no reference point after pulling the v band:(Where in relation to the oil inlet, outlet would it be? Thanks,Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCchris Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 NCchris,does the hy35w have the same dowel?And where is it? I am making an assumption that the hy35 has the same dowell as the he351. Where in relation to the oil inlet, outlet would it be? Thanks,Roger I'll try to look tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datman Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 yes it does inline with the oil outlet. http://www.holset.co.uk/files/4_4_1-service%20repair%20manuals.php this may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted June 14, 2008 Author Share Posted June 14, 2008 So far no luck. The thing is stuck together with no willingness to part. Have done WD over a week and 15 minutes of heating with a propane torch. Tried heating on the wastegate a month ago..ended up knocking it out with a homemade punch. Next step will be a sawsall with a hacksaw type blade. This is isolated from intake and exhaust, so no problem? Stop Me if I`m wrong. Thanks, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datman Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 can you take a photo and show us where you are hitting it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted June 16, 2008 Author Share Posted June 16, 2008 Thanks datman, I decided to not do the zip files because of cost. Do You have a pdf on this? I have cut a 1/4 inch groove around with a bimetal sawsall blade, and am soaking it with penetrating oil. I have been hitting it with a plastic headed hammer any place I can. Thanks to jeffers, and others with the dowel thing I stopped believing I could just rotate the thing and everything would be alright. This thing is stuck like somebody used epoxy on it. But, after 6 years?! what would You expect? Going to try again tomorrow with the heat. If that doesn`t work..more cutting. What is the size of the flange. In other words, I`m into it for 1/4 inch--how far is it to the end? Thanks again, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 dude... you cant cut that thing. yourit has to match up perfect. if its cockied when you put it back on the fan blades will hit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted June 16, 2008 Author Share Posted June 16, 2008 Jeffers, I don`t intend to go all the way. Just enough to get a breakaway. What I need to know now is the thickness of the flange ,so I don`t go so far as to cock it. This thing is fightin Me!! Thanks for Your help. Roger..about ready to put it in.....frustration!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 The flange is what the v0band clamp puts the load on to keep it together. you weaken that its going to break when you put the v-band clamp back on. Im sorry but i think your really harming your turbo. Maybe you should take it to a shop to have it taken apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 I am only going as far as "break point". I am taking a few thousands of an inch off both sides of the flange. The worst that could happen is break thru..not likely. Milling the two ends and a shim would take care of that. Ran an air hammer and heat on it today..still no break. Still would like to know how much meat I have to work with. By the way, if the worst happened, what socket do You use to remove the turbine assembly? It is a star thing..not sure what would work on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Take it to a shop!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 There is no shop in the area that would do anthing differently than I am doing. It is the mating space between that is important. As long as it is 2mm..no problem.I have been rebuilding engines since 1965. Not every year of course. But, being in building construction for 40 years and doing all the mechanical stuff---as well as building a street stocker( 68 chevelle) from the ground up I know the pitfalls. My first rebuild engine was a 53 Hudson twin H power 308 flathead six--Nascar champ in 53. I am a risk taker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 First, forgive the above blather--it ran an 18.96 in LS/A. I did smoke the tires with that supper granny on the early Hydromatics! Today I finally separated the two sections with the help of jeffer949,nc chris, and datman. I realized You separate it..not turn it(like duh!). Anyway, after sawsalling 1/4 plus down and using a air hammer...I had no separation. I was very impressed with the used bimetal blade-it went further than I wanted! I bought a maap/oxygen torch from Lowes, heated it,then air hammered it for a minute (the groove). It separated! Now, I don`t know whether it was the heat or the constant soaking in penetrating oil that did it. The separation showed a flange about a half an inch going horizontally toward the exhaust turbine. This would stabilize an overcut into the original groove( I did cut into it a bit). It did require a little bit of adjustment to free the exhaust turbine from binding or squeaking..but as soon as total contact was achieved..yeah! I don`t know if if this freezing thing is normal, but that`s how I did it. Now..My question is.... after rotating the exhaust portion...how bout the intake? The intake is toward the block and not enough to preclude a double 90. The snap ring on the intake looks like the next step. Thanks again, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCchris Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 The snap ring on the intake looks like the next step. Thanks again, Roger Correct, remove the snap ring then tap the compressor housing off. It also has one of those little dowell pins to prevent rotation. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share Posted July 1, 2008 Thank you Chris! Will do that tomorrow. Maybe I`ll be able to drop it in by the end of the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvandivort Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share Posted July 1, 2008 Another thing I ran into was binding on the the waste gate puck. Sometimes it would close and other times not. I ballpeened the two sections together. That didn`t totally work...so I mildly beveled the bottom of the puck with a diegrinder--eliminating obstruction on the lever end. That worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.