Jerminator96 Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Yeah here in NASCAR country it seems like ever grocery getter has a Nextel Cup motor in it.For that matter there was a guy recently on craigslist selling a set of SB2.2 heads for $400. He had another set of heads that would be a direct bolt on, I can't remember what they were though. I'll see if I can find him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Rat Fink: AFR Aluminum heads CANNOT be beat. I am building a 383 stroker Gen 1 with solid roller cam shaft and lifters and will get very positive valve lift numbers. Coated the pistons, heads, main and rod bearings. Went with steel shaft mounted rockers and will go with .095 wall 5/16ths pushrods. Went with AFR-195 heads. Look at the AFR web site and Dyno sheets. My combination cam and heads should yield 500+ torque and horsepower normally aspirated. Fully forged rotating assembly. 10.0 static compression ratio with coated pistons and not worried about detonation or having to use expensive fuel. Ready for nitrous shot anytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Hey thanks for the input rsicard! Update: I decided to listen to Grumpy and Cozy and NOT put a blower on the 9.6:1 motor. To get blown I really need to follow the rules, so I decided to listen to Grumpy again, not compromise on a halfway solution, and wait until I could put the hardware in that I really wanted. Since the existing motor would be just fine except for the heads, the crank the rods, the pistons...basically I could only keep the dang block...I decided to get the motor I really want all built up then do a swap, selling off the old complete engine. It's down to two contenders: SBC 427 NA, or SBC 383 +144 (yes a low compression 383) I have both picked out, I'll give details when I decide. I can't build that much horsepower reliably, my wrenching skills are just not up to the task, but I can do a swap. The deciding factor will be what the cops tell me when I ask about the hood scoop height; blower is preferred but I'd hate to get a fix-it ticket that I couldn't fix. It's a daily driver. Through Irvine CA. Past Anaheim cop shop. Hey Cozy, regarding the 144: I'll have the engine with ignition built for it, use a Tremec TKO, probably the weak link will be the R200 LSD or half shafts, but I'm willing to let those go for now. What do you think about cooling? I have an Astrovan radiator now, I'll need electric fans for clearance reasons. Yeah bad dog frame rails, good idea. Hey does anyone know how long they kick you off classifieds for screwing up? I tried to list my existing engine and tranny (want a Tremec TKO) but broke some rules, now I can't post. Also, what's a fair price for my setup? (ZZ4 350 SBC fastburn heads, Holley 750, Borg Warner T-5 World Class) <$2k? I don't really do much used stuff. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 .....heh heh heh.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Eric, you can't post in the classifieds until you have 40 posts. They changed the rules not too long ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 http://ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html you might find this of interest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Thanks Bo, I guess I better start posting. (Blah blah blah blah Ginger blah blah) Your wifes looking dapper today. yeah Grumpy I know you vote for NA. I'm talking to Ohio Crank about the 427, when it gets closer I'll run details past you. I can't really trust myself with a shortblock, this much HP is unforgiving and my time and wrench skills are limited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 OK, so the CHP seems to think I'm mostly OK. The visibility rule is highly subjective, with no hard limits. The pic I posted earlier is the actual blower motor I'm buying, got a good deal i think. sorta streetable? Grumpy, what do you think? scat race 4340 rotating assembly race ready pro-1 chevy sb aluminum head 215cc intakes straight plugs, 72cc chambers, 7/16 rocker studs harland sharp rller rockers chevy sb 1.60 7/16 swedged end -2 pushrods chevy sb 5/16 billet true roller timing set 8620 billet roller lifter cam rpm 2200-6000 lift .525/.525 advertised duration 287/287 sfi approved harmonic damper race chevy sb 6.61 8.5mm wires pro-billet msd dist demon eliminator 750 with race needle package weiand 144 chromoly dual valve springs arp bolts high flow electric water pump what do you think of this thing? Dyno 580HP claimed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 (edited) what cam are you thinking of using? whats the static compression ratio? what rear gear ratio? what transmission?(the t5 listed earlier)?? your list includes a 144 supercharger, but blower cams generally have more exhaust duration than intake duration and have a 112-114 LSA? Edited November 5, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 Thanks Grump, I forwarded the questions, I'll get back to you. Meanwhile, what do you think of this 427, but as a longblock with AFR heads? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/434-CHEVY-SBC-COMPLETE-TURNKEY-ENGINE-STROKER-400-427_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad491bd2cQQitemZ390113377580QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2451wt_867 I know you vote for NA, and I still may too. I can handle a longblock swap myself. No hoodwork needed for now. I also put this to Ohio Crank to quote. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Rat Fink: Just went the the (big) SEMA show in Las Vegas. All the goodies are there. Went and looked at Air Flow Research AFR-195 COMPETION heads and they appear to be better than RHS 200 aluminum heads. As far as the ebay 427 it would be beneficial to have SRP Professional Pistons (have LSx style late design metric piston rings) and they are LIGHTER. Scat Crank and Rods are VERY good, AFR-195 COMPETITION heads, pete jackson quiet cam gear drive, ARP Main Studs, Head Studs, Pushrods should be at least 0.080 wall or thicker, 4340 Scat I rods beams are LIGHTER than H beam, coat piston crowns, skirts, rod, mains bearings, camshaft, cylinder head combustion chamber, valves, intake and exhaust ports. This should yield a very healthy engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 Wow, thanks, that's just the kind of input I'm looking for! BTW, the ebay motor is a legit shop nearby, no shipping. Anybody had good/bad experience with M and R? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 OK so I started thinking seriously about handling the excess height, by cowl induction, by hood scoop, by carb scoop, and ended up with my favorite options modeled out of cardboard covered in aluminum foil. Everyone agrees that 'Im needlessly messing up the best part of the Z: the lines. Big vote for NA. If I changed the lines with a 280Zone style hood, OK, it's an improvement, but that won't even handle the existing V8, let alone a blower. By the way, the favorite of mine was making a hood scoop out of a hilborn carb scoop. Picture a smooth hilborn carb scoop sticking out of he hood. Its 5+" tall though, arguably blocks visibility, and is an external piece that isn't legal by virture of being able to come off and cause an accident. Cut the scoop horizontally to remove a few center inches and TIG back together to make it just 2" tall. Remove flare on front edge. TIG a base structure onto it to affix it to the hood from the underside, making it impossible to fly off. Now it's a a hood scoop instead of a carb scoop. Cut the hilborn carb mount out to allow an 8" air filter to enter. Fab or find an 8" air cleaner with necessary drop base to affix to the carb. Go matte and clearcoat on the hilborn finish. Maybe cut the hilborn front end like a V to match the existing V on the stock hood. Sounded cool, looked not too bad, but not as nice as stock I guess. Also looked at all the "normal" hood scoops at Summit. Then again, if I really want, I could do this for the NA. Ohio Crank doesn't appear too interested in quoting the longblock, so M and R it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 More on the M and R engine: 112 lobe, 236 intake, 242 exhaust lift 520 intake 540 exhaust Yeah I'll sub the AFR eliminators for $400, it's $700 for the AFR competition, probably not needed for this though. They use an 830 carb for their turnkey. They said I could probably use my 750 if I had it worked by a carb shop. Sounds questionable. Comments on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 Let's see how this looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Hey Grumpmaster Vee I got answer on the blower engine, but it doesn't matter anyway. The guy is running 7 lbs boost on top of 9.7:1. Yeah we've had this conversation before. Doesn't matter because my endless indecisive waffling has come to an end, I'm definitely buying an M and R 427 longblock, details above. I'd still like your opinion on it though, there is room to change components for a week or so. I'm upgrading to AFR heads. If I just want a 100 shot on top, should I go forged aluminum pistons; you mention that in another thread. Any other N2O considerations? Should I upgrade to a little M? The builder says it's all good, agrees with the AFR sub. Thanks, Rat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 More on the M and R engine:112 lobe, 236 intake, 242 exhaust lift 520 intake 540 exhaust Yeah I'll sub the AFR eliminators for $400, it's $700 for the AFR competition, probably not needed for this though. They use an 830 carb for their turnkey. They said I could probably use my 750 if I had it worked by a carb shop. Sounds questionable. Comments on that? I have a C&S Aerosol Billet Blow Through 850, ready to run for $1400. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 Thanks Doc, but I settled on getting the engine set up with carb. It's from Ohio Crank, (no tax, they finally quoted today) Motown Street block (vs Dart SHP what do you think?) AFR heads Holley 850 427 4.125 x 4.000 gives a little rebuild room vs 434 (what do you think?) 10.1:1 560/580 110 sep SRP2618 pistons hydraulic rollers should dyno mid 500's HP, high 500's TQ Should put deposit down today, working out the details, (with my wife, that is.... and her rolling pin) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rat Fink Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Existing motor and trans in classifieds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Rat Fink: Best to keep the stock hood and fit the carb and it manifold underneath as a matter of keeping drag to a minimum. Use 3" hose from the front core support to the carb for high velocity air intake. Spectre make parts to do just that. Carb hat, inline filter and scoop in front of the core support. This is the approach that I am going to use. Additionally, I am going to cover up a good portion of the grille and put an air dam also for aero purposes and down force. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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