Scratch one Spicer!

[BLKMGK]

Well, I guess I'm making some power! Blew out a Spicer "heavy duty" U-joint. This was NOT the solid unit that most like but was the heavy duty one sold by MSA. No holeshots ever on this sucker - blew as I shifted into second after a first gear roll-on. Sounded like I ground a pound of beef when it went and a cap dinged off the cell on the way out the back - no damage.

 

P.S. Could NOT drive off with just one shaft despite the LSD. I'm pretty sure it's clutches got smoked when the shaft went and the engine free revved. Hrm, should've checked the tattle tale before killing the motor

 

Where can I get the SOLID body Spicers? Has anyone got a part number? I figured this is what I'd get from MSA but...

 

AAA said no rollbacks available and after the cop helped me push it into a nearby parking lot I took the woman's car and got my spare halfshaft 45mins to change it with a jack and hand wrenches - I hope I don't have to do this very often! I will be working on getting a set of CVs but until then I'd like a set of GOOD U's to tide me over. Heh, the woman is getting a bit wary of taking any rides in the Z, I can't imagine why (lol). Will put up some pics of the trashed joint later...

 

[ September 09, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

[Drax240z]

Wow dude, sounds like its time for CV's for sure! Gad, I hope I can make it a little while before thrashing my R180 and halfshafts... Love to see pics of catastrophic failures, especially of metals. Put them up!

[jeromio]

Seems like switching over to CVs would be less work than installing 4 new Us?

 

If you're having trouble finding the shafts locally, you can try either ZBarn or you could call Fuller's salvage here in Durham. I know they have at least 2 pairs. I presume they would ship them to you. I talked them down to $125 including the rear calipers, but it may be tougher to haggle over the phone - esp. with the shipping part.

 

Been thinking of buying an extra set for spares - cash is tight lately though (mostly due to that LS1 sitting in the garage ). Anyway, just get the stub flanges with them and it's pretty much a 4 hour R&R job. Most of that time is sucked up by adapting the seals.

[dmanzo57]

Jim,

 

Neapco makes a solid journal U-joint if you can't find the Spicer part. The Neapco part number is 1-0029BF. I've had good luck with them so far, but I have an automatic trans behind my 383.

 

Don

[BLKMGK]

LOL, called a friend at NAPA and had him hunting all over. All of the joints he's got are hollow and cost as much as $40+ - the same Spicers I just snapped I think. So decided to do some more WEB searching - weirdly enough Pep Boys pops up in my searches. I call the local store and damned if it's not a part they normally stock. $13 each! Unfortunatly they're out of stock right now but might have them on a truck tomorrow. Talk about weird - it's gotten to where I usuall expect places like Pep Boys to be useless but this time it's a perfect match. Guess I'll see if they're stronger or not swapping them out won't take long nce I've got them in a set of shafts - luckily I have a spare set poff of E-Bay. BTW - these joints are apparently used in Toyota 4wd trucks. As a result I hope that there are some strong ones out there. Anyone ever gotten a peak at Toyota factory units?

 

CVs ARE in the plan and I've got a friend who's been given (!) a couple of ZXTs. He used to restore Zs so I guess everyone thinks of him when they find one. Anyway, he ought to be able to get me a set of shafts and I'll probably buy stubs new. I'm just not quite ready to take it off the road aain if I can help it. I've got Scottie's adapters on the shelf though so I'll just have to get the parts and get the welding done is all. Might have the shafts reworked like Pete did and maybe have the stubs worked too.

 

Maybe it was just a bad joint but I'm going to be much more comfortable with solid units in there. I really haven't been hammering it too badly so this was a real surprise. Going to a Z meeting locally here on Wednesday so perhaps others there will have some experience to share with regards to what holds up. Friend at NAPA told me he and his Grandfather used to just machine solid crosses for th eJag U-joints they worked with and suggested I consider that. Sounds expensive to me though

[pparaska]

New 280Z stub axles are VERY pricey.

 

(Well, I guess $180 each at Courtesy ISN'T that pricey after all - thanks John!)

 

[ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

[blueovalz]

Yeah, after my 4th U-joint broke, thats when I started looking and found out the CV joints would work. I used cheap ones first, then Spicers, then found some original OLD OEM stock Nissan joints (was told these were the better than the new joints that Nissan was selling), and no luck. After beating the hell out of my floor and the lower control arm, I said enough is enough. I've never broke another drivetrain part since the CV jointed swap.

[BLKMGK]

Pete - I want 280Z not ZX stubs, yes? ZXT won't work either will they?

 

Blue - did you try the solid body U's? You guys are scaring me now

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

yeah, you want 280Z ones BLKMGK. (it's the 280ZXT ones that are longer and create binding with the CV's, 280Z ones and Scottie's piece work fine). I have it detailed on my web.

[jeromio]

You don't have to switch to the 280Z stub axles! I mean, long term, that may be a good way to go. But, the ZXT flanges slide right on the 240Z stub axles (per Terry's write up). Since the ZXT flange has a smaller OD, the 240 bearing seal won't work. You either have to use a R200 pinion seal with the outer rubber scraped off (didn't work for me), or use some material to make up the difference between the ZXT seal's OD and the housing's ID. Terry explains using a section of PVC pipe. I found a piece of rubber from HomeDepot that went with a shower drain. Worked perfectly.

 

So, all you have to do is get the ZXT flanges along with the axles. It's a total bolt on. You need an impact wrench to get the 240 flange nut off (after taking care of the what-dya-call em' bendy-inny end thingamajobs). If you undo the 3 nuts on the top isolator to swing the strut out, it makes it easier to install the new shafts.

[johnc]

Brand new 27 spine (280Z) stub axles are ~$180 each from Courtesy Nissan. Worth every penny.

[BLKMGK]

Okay, I'm

 

Ross says use ZX with Scottie's adapter. No binding and it's the right length. Jeronimo says I can use ZXT and it's a bolt on except for the seal. Either way I end up having to pull the stubs, yes? Advantage to the ZXT is that it "bolts on" but I must fab a seal. Seems to me that since I've got the Scottie wunder adapter and friends who weld that I ought to use the ZX parts. Or am I back to being

 

Welding isn't a big issue here and I've already got the adapters - I actually planned for this contingency - scary huh? Heck I even had spare axles but I really didn't think I'd need them this quick! I'm wondering if the Spicer was defective or damaged during the install? No matter, WOT blasts are on hold until solid Us are back there at the very least.

 

Thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming! i figure I won't be the only one facing this bridge... Lone, you went CV already?

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

Hmm, Jim, I assume it's just a typo that you have me saying to use ZX with the CV adaptor? above and on my web I state it's the 280Z (or 240Z) comp. flange that can be used with the CV adaptor, CV halfshafts, without binding concerns. Consistent with what the parts tester and master Scottie has prescribed

[BLKMGK]

I think I'm getting confused still. Will read your WEB site to see if that helps since it's using the design I've got. Do the stub axles get replaced? The welding is done to the stub, yes? Oy, I'll read up and learn then ask better questions. Bear with me - I hadn't expected to have to worry about this yet...

 

Okay - I see now. Companion flange and stub is seperate. I can weld the companion fine and the stub is seperate. Break the stub, replace it, etc. Sounds like I can use the 240 piece except for the spline diff if I have to upgrade to the 280 later. Ross, you still got any stubscompanions left for the 280s?

 

[ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

[jeromio]

I did mine the way Terry O did his. YOu don't have to remove the stubs at all. You only remove the companion flange to replace it with the ZXT companion flange. It's quick fast easy. I have noticed no binding on my axles. I mean, obviously it's tighter than the actual 280zx, but I can, for instance, squinch the shaft and make a 3/4 inch or so gap between comp flange and the outer CV.

 

The rubber piece I used I just had to section with a razor blade. It was ribbed, so that made it easy. I wrapped some rubber sticky tape around the ZXT seal and also around the rubber piece just to ensure that things were nice and water tight.

 

Is Ross saying that the adapter welded to the 280 flange results in a piece that is actually shorter than the ZXT flange? That's interesting. Is the 280Z flange shorter than the 240 flange? Because the 240 and ZXT flanges seemed to be about the same length.

 

Anyway, to sum up: You can easily switch to CVs in the short term by getting the ZXT flanges along with the CV axles. The ZXT and the 240 have the same stub axle dimensions (diameter and spline count). Comb the plumbing aisle at a HomeDepot and look for a PVC shower drain that has a ribbed rubber gaskety thing on it: about 3 inches by about an inch high. I think it cost about $5 and I cut 2 pieces out of it, one for each seal. Get 2 ZXT inner bearing seals, some new grade8 bolts and you're all set.

 

Later on, when you have the time (and the dollars for the 280Z stubs and some new bearings), switch over to the Scottie adapter welded to the 280 comp. flanges.

 

Actually, it would be some kind of cool if, when you are ready to upgrade, you went ahead and tried to break the 240 stub axles.

[pparaska]

jeremio's got this right.

 

240Z stub axle mates to a 240Z or 280ZX Turbo companion flange. Seal mod needed for 280ZX Turbo companion flange is use in 240-280Z.

 

280Z stub axle mates only to a 280Z companion flange.

 

Scottie's adapter can be welded to either a 240Z or 280Z companion flange (but makes sense only for a 280Z flange).

 

240Z and 280Z stub axles will fit either strut housing. Same bearings and seals.

 

BTW, a few (or more) V8Zs have snapped a 240Z stub axle. This is why if you're going to spend the money to have the Scottie-designed adapter welded to a 240Z or 280Z companion flange, it only makes sense to do it to a 280Z companion flange - so you can put it on a 280Z (stronger) stub axle.

 

Putting Scottie's adapter on welded to a 240Z companion flange would only make sense if you were sure you wouldn't break the 240Z stub axle AND you need shaft clearance (shaft too long).

 

The total height of the Scottie adapter and 280Z companion flange versus the 280ZXT companion flange is somewhere right around 3/8". The adapter/280Z flange being shorter.

 

Sorry for my callng the 280Z stubs expensive. In the scheme of things, if you need new stubs, $180 a piece isn't that horribly ugly. But there are a ton of spares in the yards.