MazterDizazter Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Alright guys, I'm going to fully rebuild my L28ET mostly by myself (machine work will be done at local machinist) and I need to know what parts I will need and where the best place to order said parts would be. Also, a list of tools would help, although I think I have everything I need already. If there's a write-up for an L28ET rebuild somewhere, I'd be happy to read it. I need to know what order to do things in, and any tips so I don't eff anything up. Any and all help is appreciated!!! I've never done this before, but I'm totally confident I can do it; I have plenty of friends who have rebuilt motors and can call on them to get me out of any snags in case I do eff up. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Id say make a list first of what you have so people can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 The best question to add to this is "BUDGET" and "what is it?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 First I'd buy the book "How to Rebuild Your Datsun & Nissan OHC Engine" by Tom Monroe. Once you've read through the most pertinent sections contained in there you'll have a pretty good idea of what tools you'll need, which areas to look out for and which parts you might need. I'd also suggest Bryan Little's site: http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/ That said, I rebuilt my L-28 on the garage floor (very clean garage floor) with parts from about four or five parts stores. Some parts I bought: ITM pistons and rings (usually pistons can be reused) Fel-Pro head gasket, timing chain set, rear main seal set, oil pan and valve cover gaskets. Cloyes timing chain. Clevite 77 rod and main bearings. Various NOS Nissan small gaskets heater and radiator hoses through MSA. Head studs and misc SS nuts and bolts from Ace Hardware. Oil, fuel and oil filters from NAPA. etc... etc... It depends on how far you want to go. Will you need to replace the pilot bushing, or thermostat housing gaskets? Will you be rebuilding the head as well? It will depend on your car and perhaps your budget. Try and find an import parts store too. That's where I was able to get some things that Autozone or Checker/Kragen wouldn't have readily at hand. If all else fails go for the mail order/internet. Good Luck. Its a good feeling when it fires up and runs for the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 I have a budget of about $2k, hopefully that'll be enough. I already have the gasket set and new oil pump and I plan to buy the rings, crank and main bearings, timing set, MLS head gasket, ARP head and main studs, and whatever valvetrain parts that need replacement (this is mostly where I need help picking out parts; obviously the valves, springs, and retainers will be on a case-by-case basis but I need to know what other stuff is involved). What machine work needs to be done to the motor typically, aside from decking the block, planing (or milling?) the head, and honing the cylinders? I also know I at least need a micrometer (and that "How to..." book), but I'm picking up one tomorrow to do headwork on my Toyota 4AGE. I assume I'll need the tool to install piston rings, and possibly a slide hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted July 22, 2008 Author Share Posted July 22, 2008 bump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 22, 2008 Share Posted July 22, 2008 Before you get the bearings, have the main bearing journals checked for straightness or wear. You may need to have an align hone done, and then might have to purchase oversized bearings to compensate for removed material. Check thrust bearing surfaces. Check crank pin edges for abnormal wear. Have the oil holes on the crank cleaned. Chamfer all oil holes that you can reach, and have the crank shaft oil holes chamfered professionally to avoid scarring the bearing surfaces. (at least if they do it, they gotta repair it). get a set of cookie-discs to thinly and gently grind mating surfaces for things like the oil pump, water pump and whatnot, so that it is completely clean and smooth, and flat (if your machinist charges too much to do it themselves... which they do sometimes). Replace any bolts. Get new freeze plugs. Have the old ones removed, and have the block hot tanked. check rod side-play as per FSM using a feeler guage (spend some money on a good quality set) check thrust clearance before and after installing new bearings. You'll probably want an inside micrometer that covers ranges from your piston bore to your main bearing bore size, or a set of bore gauges that you can lock and then measure using an outside micrometer (cheaper and in most cases just as effective). 2000 is good for a complete block rework and some minor head prep. I think you have a pretty generous budget, just don't factor the tools in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted July 23, 2008 Author Share Posted July 23, 2008 Wow, thanks. Sounds good. I might see how much it would cost to have the whole thing done professionally, just to save myself time and sanity. Where's the best place to get all of these parts? I found some parts at Black Dragon Auto, but not freeze plugs and some other stuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I booked marked this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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