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hello. a little need to know


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The booster basically bolts on. The master cylinder has to be bench bled. Make sure to compare the new booster to the old one and adjust the pin so it protrudes from the mounting face the same amount. It's best to use some digital vernier calipers or something that can getcha pretty darn close. Don't skip that step or you will have substantial issues if it's off.

Like PP said, get a Haynes/Chilton manual.

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The booster basically bolts on. The master cylinder has to be bench bled. Make sure to compare the new booster to the old one and adjust the pin so it protrudes from the mounting face the same amount. It's best to use some digital vernier calipers or something that can getcha pretty darn close. Don't skip that step or you will have substantial issues if it's off.

Like PP said, get a Haynes/Chilton manual.

 

hey thanx bro i prob be lost without this info. i know that theres an 8'' booster and a 7'' booster. does it matter to keep it the same size? im gonna pick up that book but is there gaskets that go in between?

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hey thanx bro i prob be lost without this info. i know that theres an 8'' booster and a 7'' booster. does it matter to keep it the same size? im gonna pick up that book but is there gaskets that go in between?

No gasket as there are no air seals. It's just a mechanical connection. Be aware that there is a reaction disk that can fall off as well if you aren't careful. Mine didn't, however. If you change size it will obviously affect the "boosting effect" but it should still work as long as the mechanical connection is properly adjusted.

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