TrumpetRhapsody

I'm waiting on a Mustang caliper option or something. Not all of us have Wilwood-deep pockets, or need it. Looking good though! I like the new design.

Sunny: I'll dig more into that, maybe I'm thinking it's more complicated/expensive than it should be. T3 seems to think this will be a decent lower cost swap, just need to confirm that by trying it! Xnke: That is a decent Z31 axle option, but that leaves the weak stub axles. Those are the heavy hitters on price. Plus not everyone has easy access to a pick-n-pull. 240sx parts are a dime a dozen on many forums.

Meph: You still have weak stub axles just waiting to snap. This addresses multiple issues. Not saying you aren't right about not having binding issues, but there's a reason the custom center bars were made. Nigel: Nice catch on the rotor sizes. The 240sx guys were saying it was a 1.5" increase over their stock rotors. I didn't think to check if the Z31 rear rotor we use was bigger than the stock 240sx, which it is. Not much gain there, ill have to keep digging, maybe look at the cobra upgrade. I really want to avoid that drum e-brake nonsense. Trying to keep this cheap and easy.

Good to know. At least this will give me options. I'll try the Z31 bracket swap first, and if that's still not enough rear bias i'll bite the bullet and go full Z32.

Perhaps! I think I"ll be fine with 29 spline for a turbo car. I looked into the Z32 rear brake upgrade, and the whole drum thing looks like it's more trouble than it's worth. I found this: http://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-larger-rear-rotor-upgrade-t483332.html I'm thinking that should be enough to bring the bias issues people see with the SX rear disk swap back into check. Guess we'll find out!

I gotcha now, but staying 4 lug limits me to using the 29 spline axles that fit the 240sx hubs, so might as well stick with the bolt-in (shortened) 240sx axles. I like the Z32 rear brake idea though, since I wasn't thrilled about using the undersized SX units OR losing my ebrake. I'll bet I could use the SX wheel bearing and hub, and still use the backing plate, caliper, and e-brake assembly from the Z32. Please take LOTS of pics as you work on your rear brake setup. I just got all my used parts in, so I need to take apart my 240sx axles to see if I'm going to be able to get them shortened and resplined, or whether they're too thin and will need custom center bars.

I'd thought about this, since I had that diff as well for awhile. Should still work, but you might need some LCA drop brackets to get those huge diff side stubs to clear. When I was mocking that diff up trying to think of ways to make it work, they wouldn't clear. Pretty sure all Z32's are 5 lug, i'm trying to keep 4 lug. The Z32 rear calipers are a bolt on for 240sx's (which means it would work here too), but I was under the impression you would lose your e-brake? I thought the Z32 used a drum style ebrake. Can you show some pics?

Whoops, answered my own question. It does it automatically when you post the Youtube link as a URL.

I feel ridiculous asking, but is there not a feature to embed youtube videos into your post? I know for a fact it used to work on the Vbulletin site (I see threads with YouTube embedded), but so far I haven't figured out how to do it now on IPB.

Took the Z to a local dyno day this Saturday, and got 4 runs in. Since converting over to the external wastegate I hadn't spent much time tuning my boost controller to see how much of a change in dutycycle is needed to increase/decrease each psi. I started around 16psi and each run I increased it 5%. I was hovering around 18psi by the last run, right where I wanted to be. Final numbers were 315hp and 335tq, not bad! The other turbo cars there were seeing 5-10hp drops on subsequent runs, so even though i gained each run by adjusting the boost controller, I was probably losing 5-10hp in heat. On top of that starting around 5600 rpm I started going super rich, which probably killed my top end some. May or may not have given me a better peak number, but something to consider. From here I think I'll go ahead and rebuild this motor, considering I had no idea I was getting that severe amount of blowby. Also, i found a local guy that will rebuild, port/polish, AND flowbench my head for SUPER cheap. After I get all that done I'm thinking about converting over to E85 to see if it will help with the detonation issues these motors have, and allow me to run more agressive timing. I'm still shooting to break the 400hp mark without running more than 20psi of boost, so we'll see!

It would yeah, but then you'd have no e-brake. IIRC the Z32 uses the drum style e-brake.

No, the idea here is to NOT have to upgrade your mustache bar, LCA brackets, diff mount, and diff to run the R230. The goal is to KEEP the R200, which is plenty strong for most of us.

Alright guys, I'm tired of the astronomical costs associated with upgrading the rear end to handle a decent amount of power. 280zx axles are old tech, and prone to failure. 300zx axles are better, but require $500 center sections not to bind. Either way, you still have a weak stub axle that will be next in line to go. By the time you get billet stub axles and upgraded axles you're looking at around $1700 minimum. TechnoToyTuning and several others have come up with the R230 upgrade, but I feel like that diff is overkill for 90% of the people on this forum, not to mention the even higher cost of sourcing those parts and all the adapters and upgrades associated with it. Basically you won't do much better on cost that way either. I intend to take the backing plate T3 has designed for their R230 upgrade, and use it to run 240sx hubs, wheel bearings, AND axles with the R200. The 240sx diff side stubs are 29 spline, so there should be NO EXPENSIVE ADAPTERS needed for this swap. All you'll need to do is shorten the CV center shafts, something most capable axle shops will do for about $150. An additional bonus is that you'd be able to use the 240sx SE hub to swap to 5 lug if you wanted. The only caveat is that you'll need to convert to the 240sx rear disk setup (or any of the 240sx rear brake upgrade options), something most of us do or have done anyway. So the parts list should be: T3 Backing Plates - $550 + coilover/strut option 240sx Hubs, Wheel bearings, axles, side stubs - $200-500 depending on whether you buy new or source used Shorten CV center shafts - $150 I'm currently coordinating with TechnoToy to see if/how this can be pulled together, so i'll update you guys as I make progress. I'm hoping they can set it up where you have the option of choosing between retaining stock-style strut tubes, or coming with a coilover sleeve ready to accept the common Megan or GC coilover upgrades. Hopefully the final product will be significantly cheaper than existing options, and modernize our rear ends. Let me know what you guys think, and wish me luck!

During a cruise about a month ago my radiator fan stopped working. After doing some checking around I concluded my e-fan had given up the ghost. I'd always meant to upgrade, so I went ahead and ordered a lower amp-draw fan and a 3 row aluminum Koyorad. The Koyo's don't come with a drain plug for some reason, so I had the guys at work tig me on a bung to throw one in. Last weekend I swapped all of that in, finally wired the fan into megasquirt for automatic control, and after tracking down some leaks and such it works like a charm! I can't wait to see how this thing performs in the summer, but from the way the temps drop when the fan comes on I think it'll do a great job. Funny thing is, I found out it was a bad relay the whole time... whoops! This weekend I took the warm weather opportunity and got some projects out of the way I had been sitting on. After some modifications I swapped on my Hawk HPS brake pads, to hopefully combat the bad brake fade i'd been getting. I also finally put on my rear stainless brake lines (already did the fronts awhile back) and flushed/bled the system with 200* Super Blue dot4 brake fluid. Hopefully this will improve my braking until I can afford to do a proper brake upgrade. Aside from that, I did some minor aesthetic tweaks/adjustments and washed my engine bay and wheels. Yay productivity!

Bringing this back from the dead. Just thought i'd mention that unlike the above specs, this radiator DOES NOT come with a drain plug. I'm having one Tig'd on. I'll post up a review once I get it installed and put a few miles through it.

Back from the dead. Since I got this working last march, it's slowly gone downhill. The tach started bouncing around once I got to 4k or so, that point shifted around for awhile, and now anywhere from 3k+ just goes nuts. I don't know if those diodes are burning out or what the story is, but i'm going to try for Z-Ya's original circuit. I was going to try the MSextra suggestion, which is like Z-ya's but uses an actual output and a relay coil, but I'd rather venture into charted territory instead. I'll update once I get around to this.

Forgot to mention a fix I did a month or so ago. Without going into the whole narrative of how it happened, found out that the fusible link to maxi fuse conversion can't handle the juice long term. Either that or I just got unlucky with a not-so-solid connection to one of the fuses. My fuse block melted, and I had to come up with something better. I took this opportuinty to do a much cleaner install. I went ahead and stripped the harness all the way back to the dash connectors, and stripped out the stuff I wasn't using anymore. Shaved probably 10lbs of crap out! I replaced the maxi-fuse block with a MIDI-fuse block. These guys bolt down, and light up when they're blown. A bit hard to find fuses locally, so I'll have to keep some extras around. I also took the opportunity to re-do the stock wiring a little, beefing up the battery to block and alternator to block wiring. I couldn't believe how wimpy and bizarre the stock setup was. The electrical system is MUCH improved now. Before: After:

Bought a gas cap, should be good to go. If someone has the parts lying around to convert to the 280z style filler/cap, I still might be interested.

Somehow managed to lose my gas cap, don't want to pay the $60-80 i'm seeing them for online. Anybody have a spare kicking around? Either that, or thought about grabbing the filler neck and related hardware to just convert to the 280z thin style, so I can use a cheap $20 locking cap. Thanks!

I would rather get a forged version of the RK-R in our sizes, personally.

Awesome, thanks for the feedback!

Can you talk us through some of your Accel Enrich settings and why you arrived at them? Specifically: - Why the .8 accel time vs .2 stock? - Why no decel fuel? - Why 40% map instead of mostly TPS? - How smooth do you feel you have accel tuned? To the point you don't even think about tip-in issues, or still have the occasional hickup? I know I won't be able to take much from your actual rates, since MS2/extra calculates them differently, but the PW's are at least a good indication. Thanks for the tune!

Well the Z is back from the bodyshop, and the result is... satisfactory. Some of the gaps are still a touch wonky, but at least the front end is straight now! I'll probably spend some more time, or have him do a little extra tweaking before the paint goes on in the next few months. BUT, all 4 wheels/tires and flares are on, and boy does this booger stick! Sadly I had to dial the caster back to 3.8 to get everything to clear properly, but oh well. I'll get some pictures taken when I get her cleaned up more. So, on the tuning front I've made some progress. I finally realized why my idle VE numbers were so low, and my high KPA's so high compared to everyone elses. Multiply map! I've had mine set to "don't" or off this whole time, no wonder I've had such a terrible time getting the car to idle properly, and this is probably why I've been getting such mediocre gas mileage. With multiply map off, 1% VE change equates to about a 12% change in pulsewidth! Once you run the equation you can see how it gives me great tunability in the upper ranges, but honestly they're less sensitive to change anyway, so turning multiply map back on and retuning will give me a much smoother idle and cruise.

Guess I might as well take some time for an update. I skipped Branson this year. Had a lot going on, and just didn't feel like I'd done enough on the car to warrant shuffling everything going on to make the trip. Next year will be a good year though! I figured it was time to get my boost under control, so I ordered a JGS wastegate and had the guys here at work help me get it welded together. It was a 3 or 4 fit-and-try affair with some re-dos, but after I got my boost controller re-plumbed properly so I wasn't hitting 20psi boost cut and blowing off couplers, it held a rock solid spring controlled 15 psi. It felt amazing! Once I tweak the EBC I'll shoot for holding around 18psi for now. I also borrowed a really nice welder about a month ago and finally got to mounting my flares. The left rear was a bit of a hack job, but I got in the groove on the right side. Left front went well, though I had to dial my caster back A LOT, which sucks. Oh well, because not real race car lol. The right front everything fell apart, and the body damage really showed. I couldn't get the flares anywhere near symmetrical and not hit the FLARE with the wheel. So, I swapped back to my skinnies and drove the Z to a bodyshop. Going to get the front end fixed once and for all, and finally start getting the car looking more legit.

Pics of the finished product? I'm in the middle of converting mine as well. The shop is wanting to tap a fitting into the manifold to weld to instead of welding directly to it, I figured I'd give that a shot and weld as a backup.