Guest zfan Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 I just did a differential swap in my 71 240 Z. I took it out today for the first time and when the trans (700r4) shifts from first to second at lite rpms 2/3K it makes a grinding sound from the trans/drive shaft tunnel. Sorry should have said I swapped out r180 to r200. The strap in the tunnel was shot so I removed same. As of yet Ive not replaced. could this be problem, if so should diff. move that much,seeing as it is mounted to front assembly? Was wondering if parking brake is culprit as well. Has anyone run into same problem after swap. Im picking up a new rubber band/belt for diff. tomorrow. Hope this will help. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. By the way the simple 180 to 200 swap is really a pain in the backside Also upgraded brakes to toyota 4 bys up front as well as resurfaced rear drums and put semi metallics in back. Brakes do seem better. Next when cash allows Im going to go for vented cross drilled rotors Thanks zfan...Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 Mike, you might want to wrap some vinyl cable around that diff in the front, the stock one probably isn't going to cut it at least according to JTR. Another possibility, how close is the driveline to the emergency brake linkage? Some have had a problem with it touching the linkage and making noise. Just some thoughts. Good luck. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest digitalz Posted October 22, 2001 Share Posted October 22, 2001 don't waste money on the rubber band. it can't hold the rear from nosing up. if it is your brake linkage pivot point it makes a sound sorta like the clicking when pulling you e-brake real fast but for a longer duration. get a flashlight and look for someplace that the yoke is hitting. if it is... 1. do the cable tie down thing or 2. make a metal strap like some of the guys have done here. it bolts to the diff mount. the metal strap goes around the nose of the diff and holds it down. You use the stock rubber mount so nvh is the same as stock. or 3. put in a solid mount or weld you old stock one. nvh is increased but, if you have a loud exhaust who cares. but as you get older you tend to want more comfort (quiet and smooth at speeds). but... if you have alot of horses might end up breaking somthing, mustache bar, bushings, other mounts that are not solid, etc. all of these solutions probably cheaper than buying another rubber band that does not work. kent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 What did you take your R200 differential out of and what year, if I may ask? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 I've got to make a stupid question here. Why does the rear wheels start "jumping" in my car when I put on reverse and try to move the car slowly. At the same time there is some "metallic" noice near the diff, but I think it is the diff which jumps so it contacts the exhaustpipe. I know that the diff is OK, becouse I swapped it from a R180 to an R200 a couple of weeks then. Is it the same problem as the problem discussed in here? Or do I have a problem with the gearbox and the clutch? My car is a 240Z -72 with a Ford 302 + B&W T10 and the diff is R200 from a 260Z. Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 That's a tough one. At first I thought the diff had a lot of excessive wear. Were you backing up in a straight line or turning at the same time? Could this be clutch chatter causing this (warped flywheel surface making the clutch "jumpy" when engaging it slowly from a stop) jumping, and if so, it would do it going forward too, indication mounts may be worn. This is all based on you comment that the diff IS good. You may also want to check the U-joints for excess wear (looseness) too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 My first vehicle was a 73 Int'l 4x4 w/a 4spd manual. It had a warped flywheel & worn out clutch. Under a load while backing up I'ld experience the wheel hop syndrome. When pulling forward under a heavy load the clutch would slip. That truck had heavy duty Dana diff's & they were as stout as could be; my problem was the clutch & flywheel. If you have not given the clutch any attention then that area can not be ruled out; you've mentioned the r200 was fine...sonds like you've ruled out the rear diff(?); definately need to resolve the rear diff nose strap in one manner or another prior to anything else. Take care of the strap in one othe previously mentined posts on this thread then begin looking at your driveline/trans/clutch & flywheel. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted November 13, 2001 Share Posted November 13, 2001 I believe that the main problem is with the clutch and the flywheel. I haven't ruled out the clutch yet. The R200 diff is OK, I am sure about it. But as you say one problem could be that the diff nose strap ain't OK. I believe I have to look at that first and then repair the clutch and flywheel. I saw that Motorsport Auto is selling Steel solid diff mounts. Do they fit the R200? And how much do it effect on the driving? What could be the price? Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 the solid mount fits both 180 and r200, they hold the diff tighter, with the downside being vibration, and one new thing that i have discovered is that if you launch hard and shift hard on a regular basis, this leads to the center crossmember breaking in half,ive had a lot of issues that i blame on the solid mount, it broke a mustache bar in two, snapped flange bolts, and cracked that above mentioned crossmember in half, new bar new bushings and a reinforced center crossmember and im back in there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 FWIW, I've got one of those solid diff mounts and I honestly don't notice any real vibration or whine through it. It's pretty streetable but the noise from the exhaust may be what's covering any whine it may be putting out, I dunno'. The steel cable strap idea from JTR isn't a bad one but my mount was shot so.... Not putting down enugh power to break anything but U joints yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 You may want to check the drive shaft. I had the noise you are talking about in a 240Z with a r200 rearend 3:90 gear. It got so bad I couldn't take it above 3000 rpm with out a real bad vibration. Turned out to be the rear u-joint was broken. Put in a new drive shaft and haven't had any new problems with it. Must have been the rpm shifts that caused it. The rearend is mount solid in the car. Good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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