Polarity Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Hey guys, working on a 280ZX that has some hail damage, I've never done body work but the whole idea of the car is to learn. All the damage on the car is the same, about 1" in diameter and less than 1/10th of an inch deep. If anyone could give me the basics or maybe provide a link or two for some good reading I would appreciate it. So you know my end goal is to do as much of the prep for paint as possible by myself. Any info would be great. -polarity 81 280ZX LT1/4l60e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 I took some pictures (not sure how good you can actually see the dents) but here you go. 56K WARNING - I didn't shrink the images at all in hopes of getting a clear picture of the dents http://www.lineageclans.net/zx/body1.jpg http://www.lineageclans.net/zx/body2.jpg http://www.lineageclans.net/zx/body3.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PR280z Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 hello, Where are the dents actually located? You can use a dolly+hammer if your able to get behind the dent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 Literally all over the car, the hood, roof, and tops of the fenders mostly. Some small dings in the doors aswell. -polarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdv350ss Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 Maybe this little gem along with a "stud welding" gun. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-14261-17711.aspx https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-12757-15884.aspx I used one while attending an evening autobody course and really liked it. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 How do those 2 work together, been looking for any kind of write up on the ding-near-perfect but I cant seem to find anything. -polarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 I would either 1) try dry ice and see if I could do anything with the metal using it first since it won't hurt anything 2) fork out the cash and have Dent Pro or another similar outfit come over and work the metal or 3) I would try a tool like the first one that uses glue on the dent and then a pulling device to 'pop' them. Serious body work is the last alternative (for me anyway). Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdv350ss Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 The stud is welded in place with the "stud welder." Then the "ding thing" attaches like a pop rivet gun to the stud and allows you to pull the dent out while the ring presses against the surrounding metal. A neat little trick the instructor showed us is that you can "barely" weld the stud in place by applying a quick pull on the trigger and acheive just enough of a bond/weld to pull out the dent. Then you can remove/reuse the stud by taking a pair of diagonal cutters and kind of press and grab hard around the base of the stud to pop it back off. (A little like pulling out nails.) This obviously saves on the studs but also results in very little grinding at the site of the attachment. Hope that helps a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 Thanks for all the tips guys, not sure which route I'm going to go yet but I'll update you on the progress when I get started. Got to work on this speedometer install tonight. -polarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhaag Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 My ZX was covered with a large number of failry big dents when I got it. I found a guy who worked at a Dent Doctor type of place but who worked out of his home after hours. I am amazed at how perfect the body looks now. Get some estimates and see if you can find someone who has low overhead. I spent about $250 for the whole car (roof, hatch, tops of fenders and hood). John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 I spent about $250 for the whole car (roof, hatch, tops of fenders and hood). John That's what I'm talkin' about! NICE. I think $250 is a bargain to smooth out the metal on a car, especially one covered in small dents. I did something very similar with a Q45 I once owned. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 If you aren't familiar with the stud welder method then I wouldn't try to teach yourself on an actual car. I'd stick to dry ice or paintless dent repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted August 31, 2008 Author Share Posted August 31, 2008 No luck finding paintless here yet, I'm in a pretty small town. So far I can't even find dry ice. Anyone willing to ship some my way if I paypal them the money? Or maybe I'll drive the hour up to Shreveport and see if I can get my hands on some there. -polarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 as said in the TV ad, use it once and it pays for itself. I used it more than 5 times and it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted September 4, 2008 Author Share Posted September 4, 2008 Just wanted to say thanks for the tips, ordered the Ding King today with an extra pack of glue and remover =). As usual I will update when it's here for everyone. -polarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Polarity, I just watched a dent erasing technique on YouTube that utilizes compressed air (it's very cold) and a hair dryer (warm air). The effect was stunning and it is by far the cheapest way to go that I have found. It may also be worth looking into. Just FYI. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 Just looked that up, looks crazy. I'll try it tonight when I get home. -polarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted September 7, 2008 Author Share Posted September 7, 2008 Just to let you know the hair dryer thing didn't work. It didn't make the metal very hot. I did however have a kitchen torch (ok, so I cook too) and I used that, it did pop the dent, but still not perfect. It now pretty much looks like a small crease. Any tips on getting that out. I have the Ding King in the mail on it's way to me, still not sure if that will get this out. What about things like body filler. I really need to find some good reading on body work. -polarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Best simple bodywork book I have found yet is: How to Paint Your Car on a Budget by Pat Ganahl. I think creases are begging for body filler. You might want to try some body work tools and try to tap them out. Clearly, though, if you used the compressed air/heat method and were able to get most of the dent out, that's SUPER. I have to try it on my Civic and see if I can get it to work... Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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