Dodge Coil Pack pinout?

[cygnusx1]

I bought a new dodge coil pack for my EDIS-6 system. However, it has four pins in a row instead of the four in a box arrangement. The pins are arrange in a row like the Ford coil connector but when I check them with my OHMeter I get this.

 

_ _ _ _

1 2 + 3

 

It seems that the positive is on the third pin, because I get equal OHM readings from that pin to each of the other three. Does anyone have this style coilpack from Dodge/Chrysler (mid 90's v6 4.0liter) vintage? Can they confirm the wiring?

 

Thanks, I know it's a long shot, but I can't find a pinout for the coil pack.

[SidWell]

this link may help you. The key to your answer is in the photograph at the bottom. Make sure you have the Mopar connector. Match the wire colors on the connector to the red, black and white square patches painted on the coil pack.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133381

[cygnusx1]

Thanks, I saw that post from Braap, but the coilpack I happened to pick up on ebay came with four pins arranged in a row. The connector shown in that photo by Braap is a square layout.

 

This is what I expected:

(square pinout like Braaps)

_ _

_ _

 

 

 

 

 

This is what I got: (caravan/voyager pack). Which pin goes with which coil and how do I figure it out?

(linear pin layout, similar to Fords, but not the same as fords, electrically) Although, the Ford connector fits after hacksaw and file treatment.

_ _ _ _

 

[SidWell]

If you are not sure about the input wiring, this is a very crude option will help you find out what goes to each coil. It requires an analog multimeter, (an oscope would be even better) some wire and a 1.5 volt battery.

Do not use your car battery or anything with a lot of current capacity. A "AA" battery may do just fine. Hook up the multimeter across one set of spark coils. Hook the wires up to one of the input trigger pins and the other to pin 3 (the common leg). Set the multimeter to a very low voltage sensitiviy. Quickly touch the battery to the input wires and release it. Do not continuously hold the battery shorted to the input coil that will burn it out. You should see the meter or oscope deflect at the moment of contact and then when it is released. If it does not, move to the next spark coil set. I am not sure if the AC voltage setting will see the single pulse. If you have it on DC voltage it will only deflect when the battery is either touched or released. If you have a digital multimeter you may or may not see anything at all depending on the sample rate. Like I said, This is very crude, but it should help you to mark which input pin goes to which coil.

Warning! The coils wires are quite fragile when not used for their original purpose. Think of them as a cross between a light bulb and a fuse. If you run too much current thru them for too long a time they will all burn out. A quick touch and release is all you need to do the job. Because this is nothing more than a specialized transformer it is the application of voltage and release of voltage that cause the deflection.

[cygnusx1]

Thanks sidwell. Before I do this I want to clarify one thing. When you say put the voltmeter across one set of spark coils do you mean this?

 

These are the three packs.

 

1 2 3

O O O---------- + Voltmeter (set to AC or DC)

O O O---------- -

 

- - - - PINS Assuming pin#3 is common.

| .. |

| .. |

+ .. - Battery 1.5v (blip wire to pin and look for needle jump on voltmeter)

[SidWell]

Yes you got the idea. Make sure the volt meter is set on the lowest possible setting.

[cygnusx1]

Sidwell. I came across an idea in the MS manual.

 

"One method is to test on the starter (plugs out.) First mark your crank pulley with where each plug should fire and then strobe each coil tower in turn as you crank the engine to see which one fires. e.g. I was installing MSnEDIS onto a small block Chevy which has 18436572 firing order, so I marked 1 at TDC, 8 at 90 ATDC i.e. a quarter turn anti-clockwise, then 4 at 180 ATDC, then 3 at 270 ATDC. You can just chalk the numbers on roughly. When you have worked out which plug is which connect up the wiring and off you go. Remember that the coil fires a pair of towers, so in my example 1&6, 8&5, 4&7, 3&2 are the pairs."

 

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

[SidWell]

Yes you can certainly do that. The issue is that you then have to have the harness hooked up and installed in the car. You then either have to adjust the spark plug wires or rewire the connector. My aproach, while crude, only involves the coil box and can be done on the bench.

[WizardBlack]

Thanks, I saw that post from Braap, but the coilpack I happened to pick up on ebay came with four pins arranged in a row. The connector shown in that photo by Braap is a square layout.

 

This is what I expected:

(square pinout like Braaps)

_ _

_ _

 

 

 

 

 

This is what I got: (caravan/voyager pack). Which pin goes with which coil and how do I figure it out?

(linear pin layout, similar to Fords, but not the same as fords, electrically) Although, the Ford connector fits after hacksaw and file treatment.

_ _ _ _

 

 

 

Question: Do the local Autozone stores keep their Haynes Manuals covered in plastic wrap?

[cygnusx1]

Yup....but I think I figured it out anyhow. I will post the pinout when I know it's correct.

[cygnusx1]

THE ANSWER

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=930882&postcount=18

[SidWell]

Nice documentation. I am glad you got it figured out. The spark input signal pins lay out the same as the coils. Ever wonder why the return wire is on pin 3 and not on either pin 1 or 4?

My EDIS controller is located right where your's is. Like you I wanted it there to keep the VR cable run as short and clean as possible. That is why I moved my pickup away from the alternator and electric water pump. My electric water pump was so noisey it would fire the injector coils as soon as it was powered up. Now the VR signal is very clean.