Chronicals of rejracers L28ET swap

[rejracer]

Last November I bought a 280zxt donor car for 500.00. The car ran, but barely, and I do mean barely. When I got to it, it had a blown out tire, no upper radiator hose, missing power steering pump, no battery, clogged radiator, dead alternator and in a general state of utter neglect. ..but the price was good in my opinion.

 

So for the next 8 months it's status of "yard car" had yet remained unchanged, albeit in a new location. A couple of weeks ago I started working on it again, and this was trigger by me taking the time to power wash the car and engine bay. Now that the engine was somewhat clean, I started poking around to see what I could find. The most obvious things I found were the vacuum leaks. Starting off with all the lines on the upper manifold were loose, well the clamps were not loose, it's just the rubber had been indented so bad by the wire clamps that they all needed a good tightening. The large hose on the valve cover was so bad I needed to put a band clamp on it as it would not go down far enough to get a good seal.

 

Next up was the charcoal canister. The hoses were reversed on it so that the vacuum was on the canister port and thus it was just a giant leak. most of the rubber hoses were falling apart in some places, when I would try to pull them off they would break in half. Hoses that "looked" ok were far from it. The J Pipe was loose too.

 

Now the electrical connectors were heavily corroded. some of them were green like what happens to neglected battery terminals. On the throttle position switch I opted for battery terminal cleaner rather than deox-it. After the big stuff was gone I then used a mini scraper to clean the crud off. After they were shiny I took it apart and found the contacts themselves were ok, so I re-assembled the unit and tie wrapped it together. I put it on the car but at the time did not know how to adjust it as I was trying to get my hands on a service manual. I then did the same treatment on all the injectors, head temp sensor, what I thought was the thermotime switch (dont think turbo's have them, but not sure), air flow meter, and air regulator. After each step it seemed to make a difference. The real change is when I did the 2 step deox-it process on the ECU plugs and pins. It was now running fairly good considering where it had come from, but still far from right.

 

Now the fuel was clearly rotten, it smelled fairly nasty, so we drained the tank. I wanted to clean the injectors so i mixed up a batch of gasoline, tolulene and xylene in equal parts. That made quite a bit of a difference.

 

The next step was adjusting the throttle switch, which was fairly easy with the service manual.

 

The only problem I am now left with is it still back fires when it's cold.

 

I have to still do the following:

Cap and rotor

Plugs

wires

injector seals

injector holder things (one is broken)

new coil/transistor

Set the timing!! (easy cant believe i have not done this yet).

 

I did take it on the road and when it's warm it does not backfire, nor does it hesitate at all. I am surprised at how good it runs, it pulls hard to 6k and as a matter of fact it slips the clutch in 2nd and 3rd if I don;t let off. It pulls really hard.

 

Aside from the tune up parts i just ordered, I have 505.03 (had to buy battery cable ends) invested in this thing. After the parts it's about 750.00. I think i got a good deal overall.

 

So after the parts are installed and remaining diagnostics I will be doing I expect it will be running like a top. One part I am trying to find is a set of magnecor wires long enough to route in front of the engine. I called magenecor and asked for a spool of their kv85 wire and the correct ends and they did not suggest it, but said they would do it. So now I just need to get some rough measurements and order that spool and ends to get it dialed in. Are there any real concerns about making your own spark plug leads? I say real as in can your average non-gorilla make them with the right tools? I have done my own in the past, but never dealt with the pure silicone type construction that magnecor uses. If you know of a good kit for routing the wires please clue me in. It appears folks are just buying the separators and routing these things themselves. ...and now for some pics.

 

 

Here is a general shot of the engine bay

 

 

What is this thing, EFI relay bypass?

 

 

 

Other side of the engine bay:

 

 

 

That's all I have for now. Progress will be slow, but I will try and keep this post updated.

[rejracer]

New magnecor wires installed.

 

Fan clearance

 

 

 

Upper hose clearance

 

Mounting the OEM Wire holders

 

 

[KunoZ]

What is this thing, EFI relay bypass?

Thats not a relay bypass. Thats a fuse somebody wired in place of a fusible link. Since fusible links are kinda hard to come by (not sure if they even make them anymore). Shouldnt cause any problems, just would make sure they have the correct amperage for the fuse.

[rejracer]

Update:

 

So the car over heats...

 

1. Installed the radiator fan shroud: did not fix cooling problem.

2. Flushed and reverse flushed radiator: Fixed problem until I drove it.

3. Inspected and radiator is plugged up with Rust Scale.

4. Flushed and reverse flushed radiator: Fixed problem until I drove it.

5. Inspected and radiator is plugged up with Rust Scale, AGAIN. ( I am beginning to see a pattern here)

6. Flushed and reverse flushed radiator: Use EVAPoRust in the cooling system. Cooling system problems solved. 1 treatment and all rust scale issues are gone. I recommend the product.

 

When we drained the cooling system of the evaporust mixture we saved it and placed a pair of fencing pliers that we found in our back yard 30 years ago (literally). They had probably been underground for 40 years. they were rusted shut and no amount of force could open them. After a week in the mixture I tried to move them, and could get the slightest movement out of them. I continued to work them open and closed until they moved freely. I scrubbed them in the sink with a wire brush to get the black residue of the evaporust off and the things now feel like they are new.

 

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

 

This stuff flat out works, it's not the fastest acting, but the results are great if you can leave it in for a while.

 

I'm afraid if I use it on my 240z I will have a set of wheels and rubber lines left over when it's finished working. Evapo Z anyone?

 

Water cooling neck was pitted so bad I bought a new one off of Ebay. Also got creative and polished the waterneck off of a spare head I had laying around. It's not installed yet.

Any Idea where to source the mounting bolts in stainless? I am using the class 10.9 Zinc coated bolts for now. Local Ace hardware only has up to 65mm length. I need 70 or 75mm. I would like them in Allen button head to match the fasteners I am using up top.

 

 

I am polishing another Valvecover as well. So I may have one of them up for sale. This one I am removing the "Nissan * OHC" lettering from the top of the cover and will paint the inlay areas. I am also trying to determine if I weld up the holes for the spark plug wire mounts and then sand flush, will the welded area polish out the same due to a different density/alloy of aluminum. Any ideas on that front?

I am thinking of taking it to a welding shop an having them tig the holes so as to cause the material to melt and fill in the hole, and not actually use any filler material. is that doable, good idea/bad idea?

 

Also sourced a cheap 81 5spd. Now I will be able to sell the NA parts car outright and not deal with the part out. I bought it for the trans. Must test the trans I bought first to make sure I don't need to pull the one in the NA car. If anyone is interested in an 83 NA parts car, let me know, and I'll put you on the list for when I am ready to get rid of it.

[Cobra_Tim]

Do those plug wires come pre cut and ready to route that way?

[locodrftr]

Filling up the holes with material should be ok on your valve cover 4043 should work just fine.....as far as your concern with wether or not it will polish the same i think you'll be alright. Ive done this to a couple of valve covers that had bad gashes in them, welded them up and polished afterwards and wasn't noticable. Unless you are anodizing the aluminum in which case the welding rod does matter. The only problems ive had with valve covers was grinding off the raised letters and then polishing. I did this to a sr20 valve cover and grinded off the raised letters and sanded smooth and polished and ended up still seeing the letters like ghost paint or something, kinda weird. You shouldn't have to worry about that since your painting over that area but just giving you my experience.And not using filler on aluminum is doable but there is no strength to those areas and will usually crack right away. If your ever near upland area i'd help you with any welding you needed see my sig.

Anyway good luck with everything and keep up the updates.

[rejracer]

I custom fit those wires, the did not come pre cut. I bought a spool of kv85 magnecor wire (25 feet) and the needed terminals and boots.

 

concerning the lettering on the cover, I noticed the same when I am sanding the letters. I have not polished them out yet, but from the sanding the aluminum appears to be an inconsistent densitny when I get to the lower layers. It must be part of the casting process.

 

I have a miller welder with a spool gun. I'll check to see what wire I have. I have tried welding aluminum with the spool gun, and lets just say my skills are not up to par. Do you think MIG is capable of creating a dense enough weld to fill those holes? I have some scrap laying around that I have practiced on, I suppose I will check it out as far as the polishing goes.

 

Thanks for the input.

[Daeron]

concerning the lettering on the cover, I noticed the same when I am sanding the letters. I have not polished them out yet, but from the sanding the aluminum appears to be an inconsistent densitny when I get to the lower layers. It must be part of the casting process.

 

(I have lots of ideas, and I learned a long time ago that a million bad ideas that get shot down are ten times better than one good idea that gets shut up)

 

Idea: grind the entire section deep just a *tiny* bit (what one might call a c^&t hair) too deep with a verrrrrry gradual slope...

[rejracer]

Daeron,

that is my plan, when time allows. problem is I am making those cuts with a dremel tool, and it's not really up to the task.

 

I have the 2 left hand side spark plug wire separator bosses welded in. I boogered it up pretty good with a mig welder and spool gun. I will file it down and report back.

 

I tried mocking up the coil on plug bracket on the valve cover today. I was just trying to get it positioned so i could take some measurements.

 

here's what it looks like:

 

thinking with graphite....

 

 

 

 

Do I want it mounted high, or low???

 

Working on the spacing :

 

 

Valve cover bolt access:

 

I decided to drop it down a bit:

 

 

So for an hour or so of bending coathanger and cutting styrofoam spacers I got a lot done. This is a bracket I picked up from Ron Tyler. The final version will have each coil rotated x degrees, and the brackets to mount it on the valve cover will be integral to the bracket, not separate pieces bolted on to Ron's. I'm working on the models now, getting measurements, and will buy material soon.

 

My fabrication skills are nothing like Montzers, so basic materials will be used, and hopefully the final design will be buildable.

 

The basic idea is to use the valve cover bolts as mount points for the bracket. The Spark plug wire boss on the right hand side will also be used. The lower mount points will not be fastened to the valve cover, rather they will sit on locating lugs. Only the top mount will utilize a fastener. With this design, it will be possible to remove the entire coil assembly with one nut. Each mount point will be isolated with a rubber grommet.

 

I think it's a solid design, time will tell.

 

 

I also want to play around with the LS2 coils, the coils I am mocking this up with are the truck coils. I have heard the LS2 coil is a wee bit more powerful, but time has not allowed me to confirm if it's true or not.

[BRAAP]

Looks great, goodwork! Love the valve cover mounting.

 

Don't know if this will be of any help to you or not, but I have done a little bit of research on the GM LSx coils, probably not as in depth as I should.

In my GM LSx coil research, there are 2 coils that are the “the” coil choice for radical boost builds and these two coils will outperform both the LS1 AND the LS2 coils! Both are truck/Yukon coils, one of which is what you currently have and are commonly referred to as “the truck coil”. The other is commonly referred to as the “Yukon coil”. As I understand it, both of these truck/Yukon coils will keep lighting the fire in the cylinder of highly boosted engines beyond the point the LS1 and LS2 coils quit igniting the fire. The LS2 coils are a bit hotter than the LS1 coils, but both styles of truck/Yukon coils are still the coil of choice amongst the high end tuners.

 

There also seems to be some confusion regarding the LS2 and newer style truck/Yukon coils. In particular is one Mega Squirt ignition tech page that is incorrectly labeling the newer truck/Yukon coil as also an LS2 coil, it is not. See pics below.

 

LS2 coils are similar in architecture to the LS1 coils with the looped lament core, the newer truck/Yukon coils are round with visible heat sink. When I replaced the 5.3 in my wifes 2001 Suburban, it has the early style truck coils like you have. The replacement ’04 engine had the newer style. I also sourced another set of 8 of these Yukon coils for Ron Tyler, same vintage Yukon 5.3! The LS2 coils do NOT have the visible heat sink. I sent one of these Yukon coils to HBZ member Zya for testing, I think Ron sent Zya an early truck coil a year or so earlier, about the time frame Ron was selling those coil brackets.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120533

 

In the pics below, you can see the difference physically between the LS1, LS2 and Yukon coil;

 

 

 

Here are my Yukon coils, ’04 Yukon 5.3;

 

[rejracer]

Paul,

Very useful info, thank you.

 

So I see there are many physical mounting differences in the coils. I actually got lucky and ordered the right ones for the bracket. I did not realize there were physical mounting differences.

 

The part number of the coil I am mocking this up with is 12558693 (cast into the plastic shell of the coil) and is for what the ebay page described "2006 - 2000 GM SILVERADO 6.OL 5.3L 4.8L COILS (7) *OEM*"

 

It appears that the yukon coils are the best from the comments I have read on them. I will look at picking up a set and checking what would need to be done to make a bracket for them. From the pictures they will be more difficult to design a bracket for as they are less symmetrical.

 

The other idea I had on this project was to locate multiple mounting points so the installer has the choice of running the secondary lead in a vertical position or rotate it in either direction in 20* increments. This is what happens when I start playing with solidworks. Scope creep!

[z-ya]

Nice work mounting those coils.

 

After doing some measurements on the Yukon coil Paul sent me, and the LS1 coils I used, this is my conclusion.

 

The Yukon coils have a slightly hotter spark than the LS1 coil. So you can probably run a larger gap than the LS1 given equal boost pressure. The Yukon coil has a short charge (dwell) and discharge time. This is good for higher RPM applications in a wasted spark configuration (or if you use just one coil and a distributor). It actually draws slightly less current than the LS1 coil, so it is a more efficient design. It is more compact and has a cool heat sink.

 

Here is how I mounted my LS1 coils:

 

 

 

 

Pete

[HB280ZT]

Pete,

 

I really, really like that setup.

 

How did you go about doing it that way?

 

Do you have any suggestions or tips or lessons learned for someone who wants to do it the say way?

 

Also you are driving them off of a?

 

More pictures please

 

HB280ZT

[z-ya]

I don't have any other photos at this point, and the car is getting some needed bodywork after my Mid-Ohio incident last year, so no more photos for now. This is how I did it. My only suggestion is measure 10 times, and drill once . Experiment on a junk cover first (that is was I did, but it came out nice so I painted it).

 

- Coils are centered on the plug holes in the head.

- Holes are 2.25" from the valve cover gasket surface

- Spacers are 3/8 aluminum tubing cut to 1" lengths

- Bolts are 1/4-20 stainless binder head

- A small amount of silicone one each bolt

- Loctite

 

I used an 8 pin sealed connector (left over from an RB harness), so all you need to do is unbolt the cover, disconnect the 8 pin plug and plug wires and you can lift the valve cover off.

 

I'm using a Wolf 3D V3 ECU to drive them. Each 5V ignition output drives two LS1 coils in a wasted spark configuration. A Megasquirt can also drive LS1 coils in this arrangement.

 

 

Pete

[rejracer]

Pete,

I was up in Oregon last October and stopped by Rusch Motorsports. When I was there I was showing Ron and Paul my idea for mounting the coils to the valve cover. But you beat me to actually implementing the idea.

 

I saw your other thread, and that's actually what prompted me to post up my idea.

 

The design I am working on will require no modifications to the valve cover, just some new fasteners. When I get around to getting some coils for taking measurements off of, I intend to make a new bracket that can mount LS1, LS2 or the Yukon coils. I think your idea is a very good, low cost solution. Making a bracket really racks up the cost, as I have more fastners plus the bracket.

 

I had already planned on using a sealed connector to remove the whole assembly, I just have not found which connector I am going to use.

[z-ya]

Thanks. I like your idea about not having to drill the cover. My only suggestion would be to hog out all that extra aluminum that isn't really doing anything. I think this would give it a cleaner look. If you are CNCing it anyway, might as well do it then.

 

I was going to make it more fancy by using threaded standoffs and weld them to the cover, but then I started screwing with some tubing and long screws. I did it with hardware I had laying around. Now I wish I had done it to my turbo cover (which I may do).

 

Pete

[rejracer]

What's this? An update!

 

Last fall we pulled the engine and trans from the doner car, and parted out the rest. The engine still sits on the rolling engine cradle that Bonk will kind enough to modify for me. Rforrest did most of the manual work of pulling the car apart as partial payment for my other zx, which he has now taken possession of.

 

So in my garage is sitting a bone stock L28et. In the mean time I've also purchased a set of yukon coils, the one's with the integrated heat sink. I bought aftermarket replacements on Ebay, the quality looks good, but i've not tested them. The cost was 180 or so for a set of 8. The mounting is completely different than the other truck coils I have. There are 2 major componets I am missing for a really good stock long block build. 1. Aftermarket ECU. 2. high flowing intake manifold. When it goes in, it will be stock, and I will incrementally improve it as time and funding allows.

 

Concerning mounting the coils, I still waffle between mounting them up high or low, and whether to use a bracket or do like Pete did and just bolt them to the valve cover.

 

 

As far as using a sealed connector, I am going to be using the metripak 150 series. They are rated up to 15amps, plenty for what the coils will draw. I actually bought an assortment for other wiring projects I plan to be doing as time and inspiration allow.

 

other updates: I'm pulling together parts to install the FS5W71C in the car before I do the turbo swap. For those considering the swap, here are the measurements of the 87 FS5W71C 300zx transmission:

 

300zx Bell housing length: 350mm

Center section width: 20mm

Tail housing length: 475mm

Total length from bell housing to tail housing: 845mm

Total length from bell housing to tail shaft: 842mm

Total length from bell housing to center line of shifter: 800mm

 

The one measurement I did not get is the total length from bell housing to center line of transmission mount. I will try and get that posted up when I get the parts back. I also did not measure the L series bell housing length, it should be the same per previous measurements, but I did not write it down. The transmission cases are currently at the machine shop being glass beaded, and some parts are on their way from MSA and the local dealership. For those that have not heard of this swap, you take the L series bell housing and have it machined to accept the larger bearing and shift rod of the 300zx NA transmission. You then use the rest of the 300zx parts to button it up.

 

When I get them back, WRCBONK and I will be painting the cases, thoroughly cleaning them, and then doing the final assembly of the transmission.

 

-Robert

[rejracer]

I've assembeled the Fs5w71C, I have all the parts except the tailshaft seal. One thing I noticed about all of these boxes is that they have a lot of "vertical" play in the shifter. Vertical as in you can press the shifter straight up and down about 1mm. I wanted to get rid of this play, so I found 3 shims in my collection of misc shims that were close to the right diameter. I put these shims above the shifter socket and below the 2nd snap ring that holds the mechanism to the housing.

 

When I was reassembling the shifter assembly I realized that I was missing the neutral detent ball and spring, so I had to make a run to the junk yard. I found an 85 300zx that had the part, and the shifter had already been cut down by removing the upper portion of the shifter and rubber that is used to attach it to the shifter rod. I noticed a difference in between the 85 and 87 shifters in that the 85 uses a coil spring below the shifter cup vs the 87 which uses a warpy shim style spring. The second difference is that the 85 uses a real snap ring with eyelets on the upper snap ring position vs the 87 which uses a snap ring with no eyelets, making it very difficult to remove. the last difference I notices is that the shifter housings are different, with the 85 having a deeper spring pocket to accommodate the coil spring.

 

So i ended up using the 87 housing with warpy spring, the 87 upper and lower shifter ball cups, the shortened shifter from the 85, the 85 snap rings, and some custom shims to assemble the shifter mech. It was a bit tight when putting in the 2nd snap ring but the end result was zero up an down movement from the shifter. Me feeling all proud of the afternoons accomplishments then had the thought: "wonder if the manufacturer had that vertical play in there for a reason?". So my question to the forum is: Did I do something I ought not?

 

With that said, the shifter has zero play, and I mean zero. The only play I can feel is in the shift arms themselves, which is internal to the transmission itself.

 

I'm very happy with the bench test so far. Real test will be when it's installed.

 

 

Next up on the project is to install the trans on the existing N/A engine. I think I'm going to use the Z31 shift boots as i have 2 sets of them.

 

For the time being, here are the pics:

 

shifter installed, notice how short the shifter is. I actually prefer a cut down shifter, versus a short throw shifter. The reason is that it preserves the balance of vertical and horizontal throw. Actually the balance bit is only relevant to the 71b boxes, but still, I like the feel of a shorter shifter in a S30. The look it improved as well.

Here it is with the shift knob installed. That is a leather momo shift knob. Believe it or not, I got this from a local part out for 5 bucks. Any who, the total length should put this shifter about 6" above the tunnel, perfect for how I sit in the car. I'm 5'6 and 1/2 ahem, so this works for me.

 

When I get my final configuration done, the engine will be sitting back 2.75" this should be perfect for this transmission. If I have to, I will disassemble the shifter, heat it and straighten the shifter arm so it clears the tunnel and center console as well as lengthen it to gain any height i need, but I don't expect that will be necessary.

 

As far as the writeup for assembling the Fs5w71C, there are 2 really good write-ups already on hybrid Z, Nigel is one of them, so I won't bother duplicating his writeup. Please note, Nigel used a 240sx trans and I am using a 300zx trans, they are not exactly the same. I'll post more when I pull my existing trans and compare the 300zx and 280zx transmissions.

 

And lastly since we are on the topic of shifters, don't cheap out and get a plastic screw on shift knob. Get leather as it's what you touch. You will know why come summer. 'Nuff said.

Edited April 9, 2012 by rejracer

[rejracer]

The Z has been running hot lately. The cooling system needed a good cleaning, so I drained the coolant and began a flush cycle. I used the prestone heavy duty cleaner, the one you run for 3 to 600 miles. After a few days I noticed the coolant was spewing from the overflow tank while driving and it was consuming a lot of this stuff. I assumed the loss was due to it spewing. I also noticed a miss upon startup that lasted maybe a minute or so. Come monday a week later I attempt to start the car and I hear a very solid click but no engine turning. I immediately pulled the plugs and cranked it over and #6 was hydrauliced. Upon tear down I found that #6 chamber was badly cracked.

 

Thus begins the actual L28ET swap! It's only been 3 1/2 years.

 

After pulling the engine I put the new engine on the stand and started collecting all the swap parts that made it into the corner of the garage and in the shed. The engine had one broken exhuast stud so I opted to pull the intake and exhaust off. Surprisingly all the other studs were in good shape, and the broken one came out so easy, I should have attempted to extract it with the manifolds intact. Lesson learned. The old manifold gasket was in good shape, so I did not need to do it for that reason. After putting the engine back together and bolting up my alternator I had to also replace the inlet water neck as the one on the turbo engine had eaten all the way through the casting. The old water pump was also showing signs of leaking, so I replaced it as well.

 

I slid the engine in with little headache. Once the power plant was in, I started by connecting the harness. I notice that there is a difference between the 81 (based on Aaron Ferguson's writeup and the 83 I am using. I also went about it a bit different, but used Aaron's writeup as a guide, very helpful writeup, THANK YOU.

 

Differences between the 81 and 83 setups that I am aware of:

1. 81 uses a crank mounted CAS 82-83 used a Distributor mounted CAS.

2. 81 uses a ignition harness, 83 "ignition" harness is integrated into the main harness.

3. 83 does not have dropping resistors.

4. The connection between the main harness and the EFI harness is via a 6 cavity connector in 81 and a 8 cavity connector on the 83.

 

All the critical bits were covered in Aaron's writeup, and could be figured out with the aid of a FSM. I plan on modifying Aaron's writeup with the information I've collected and post it via Google docs.

 

I hacked apart the main harness to get the coil connector, fuel pump relay, fuel pump wiring to the back of the vehicle, tach signal resistor, and several other tidbits as needed. I am now wiring all these bits into the injection harness to make a true engine harness that only requires constant power, ground, switched 12v signal and start signal. I also added ground wires, one to the ECU ground and one to the airflow meter / manifold. These grounds are 16ga wire that I am running back to the factory body ground which is connected directly to the battery.

 

So what I've accomplished so far:

1. Fixed wiring for EGR system I had to replace the electrical connector, used a metripak!

2. Hooked up EGR and AAC to vacuum and clean air ports.

3. Added 2 new ground wires, one from the ECU and the other from the air flow meter to the factory ground point on the passenger frame rail.

4. Soldered the coil trigger signal wire. It no longer goes through the 8 cavity connector.

5. Enlarged the choke cable hole and ran the harness through. Used 1 3/4" hole saw to drill it.

6. Messed with the routing of the harness.

7. Clocked the port and connected the Brake master vac

8. Started simplifying the wiring and harness on the passenger side of the engine harness.

9. Completed intake plumbing

10. Finished mounting fuel pump (thanks Bill!)

 

To do tomorrow:

1. Mount ECU (mounting it between the hvac box and steering column).

2. Run fuel pump wiring through the chassis.

3. Finish simplifying the wiring and connect fuel pump to fuel pump relay.

4. Install Drive line and shifter.

5. Fix clutch rubbing issue (I will most likely remove the clutch dust boot)

6. Fill transmission with fluid

7. Attach exhaust

8. cooling system - mount radiator, install hoses, fill system

9. Install Voltmeter

10. Mount evap canister.

 

Here are the most recent pics I have (from last weeks tear down). I'll get more pics up when time allows.

 

Overall I think I have 65 bucks into this swap so far. (neglecting the cost of the doner). considering the parts i've sold, I've actually made 135 or there abouts.

 

 

Notice how clean # 6 is.

 

Dead head:

 

 

Feed meh:

 

Dessert?

 

Right side

 

Left side, pre rat's nest (harness)

Edited May 29, 2012 by rejracer

[rejracer]

Another L28ET swap hits the road!

 

I had a setback yesterday evening when I found the fuel pump was leaky, I bought a Carter replacement.

Here is a list of things I did to finish up the 1.0 version of the swap:

 

Done today:

1. buy/fix fuel pump

2. cooling system - mount radiator, install hoses, fill system with distilled water

3. Connect driveline and shifter / boot.

4. Fix clutch rubbing issue

5. Fill transmission with fluid

6. Attach exhaust

7. Swapped fan clutches

 

 

To do:

1. Mount ECU

2. Install Voltmeter

3. Mount evap canister.

4. put interior back together.

5. Get pics and writeup done.

 

Initial impressions of driving it: I'm impressed for a stock setup. .