Guest curiousZbuild Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 and do you know of a bellhousing for the stock Z 5speed to a sbc? you smart little devil you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 and do you know of a bellhousing for the stock Z 5speed to a sbc? you smart little devil you I just might, but WHICH transmission exactly are we talking about? i know of lots of adapter bell housing manufacturers, theres even blank bell housings available for custom machineing http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings.htm http://www.advanceadapters.com/ http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/101879-mcleod-industries.html http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/100778-trans-dapt-performance.html http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/100771-tci-automotive.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/vw_por.htm#8CYL http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/engineadapters.html http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/engineadapters.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/other.htm http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=5325 http://www.pacificcustoms.com/1ENGADP.html http://www.offyparts.com/index.php/cPath/77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Grumyvette: Need your advice. Have SBC Vortec heads and want to mill down the valve guides for greater valve lift. What are the outer diameter spec(s), larger for bottom of spring location and upper for valve seals and Compcam tool numbers PLEASE. Also need source and part number for milling tool to shorten Stud bosses for guide plates and thread-in studs. Intend to use drill press at slow speed with head holding fixture to shorten bosses. Then use Proform stud removal and tap alignment tool to thread boss to install guide plates and threaded studs. Please advise. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 7, 2008 Author Share Posted October 7, 2008 http://www.goodson.com/ http://www.goodson.com/technical_support/ Got questions? We've got the answers. Call 1-800-533-8010 from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm (central time), Monday through Friday YOULL NEED TO KNOW YOUR SPRING DIA. SPRING BIND HEIGHT,, MAX CAM LIFT, CURRENT RETAINER TO VALVE GUIDE CLEARANCE, THE TYPE AND DIA OF THE VALVE SEALS YOU WANT TO USE, IN MOST CASES ALL THAT INFO CAN BE OBTAINED FROM THE CAM MANUFACTURERS AND THE PARTS THEY SUGGEST TO USE WITH THIER CAMS, THE VORTEC HEADS DON,T FLOW EXTREEMLY WELL OVER .550 LIFT SO THERES LITTLE SENCE IN EXCEEDING THAT AND THE PORTS WON,T FLOW WELL ON A 350-383 AT OVER 6000RPM EVEN PORTED SO THATS GOING TO LIMIT THE CAM SELLECTION ALSO crane Tech Line - 386-258-6174 CROWER http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml ERSON CAMS http://pbmperformance.com/store.php?catId=327 both tools and info here(ABOVE)ANY TIME YOU NEED TOOLS OR ENGINE MACHINING ADVICE ASK THESE GUYS, THEY USUALLY KNOW EXACTLY THE RIGHT INFO. this might help http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/index.html http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/vortec_valve_spring_upgrade/index.html http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=4716 http://www.2quicknovas.com/vortecheads.html http://www.chevymania.com/tech/vortec.htm http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D5306&autoview=sku ported vortecs (POSTED BY http://www.maxracesoftware.com) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkach Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Grumpyvette I hope you can help me with this one (or at least confirm my suspicions). I just finished re-assembling my motor (350 small block I stepped up to some nice dart heads!). As I was filling the radiator with fluid I noticed a small leak coming from the back of my intake manifold (an Edelbrock Performer). I got out my torque wrench and followed the torquing pattern and re-torqued the intake manifold to 25lds. This seemed to stop the leaking. However as I went on filling my radiator I noticed that fluid was disappearing. I went ahead and opened the drain plug on my oil pan and found the fluid! To confirm that I still had some kind of leak I waited until the pan was dry, and then filled my radiator again. To my horror it began leaking again. Now I went hunting for the source of the problem I suspect/ed the intake manifold so I figured I'd try and rule out any other possible problems. So I started with the heads under the assumption that if they had fluid in them they would not be the culprit. So I removed my Temp sensor and I had fluid, ditto for the other side. I'm hoping that rules out the possibility of problems in the heads/head gaskets. After looking at the head gaskets Mr. Gasket #720-101B standard material (When Installed the gaskets I put a coat of gasket glue around all the water passage points both on the head and intake side) . I noticed that the ports around the water jackets have become moist and water soaked, they do not leak externally however they are visibly wet. Now, I am going to go out and buy some better intake manifold gaskets as I believe this is the problem? Is there any way that I can test my manifold itself for leaks? Am I on the right track/ any suggestions ?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essdeezee Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Hey Grumpy, My dad did a mid engine sbc swap in a 66 corvair back in the 70's. He blew up the tranny and parked it. Back in about 2000, he pulled the motor, and it has been on a stand since. As of now, he's preparing another swap, but wants to use the motor. It's a 1970 Chevy LT1 crate motor, for the vette rather than the camaro. All stock, about 500 miles on the motor. So, here's the question: What steps should be taken to prepare the motor for use again? At this point, we're thinking that some marvel mystery oil through the plug holes every now and then, and eventually, turning it over by hand and repeating the process. Obviously, a full flush would be in order and a carb rebuild, but what else? Gaskets, bearings, freeze plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 8, 2008 Author Share Posted October 8, 2008 Hey Grumpy, My dad did a mid engine sbc swap in a 66 corvair back in the 70's. He blew up the tranny and parked it. Back in about 2000, he pulled the motor, and it has been on a stand since. As of now, he's preparing another swap, but wants to use the motor. It's a 1970 Chevy LT1 crate motor, for the vette rather than the camaro. All stock, about 500 miles on the motor. So, here's the question: What steps should be taken to prepare the motor for use again? At this point, we're thinking that some marvel mystery oil through the plug holes every now and then, and eventually, turning it over by hand and repeating the process. Obviously, a full flush would be in order and a carb rebuild, but what else? Gaskets, bearings, freeze plugs? a great deal depends on the storage conditions the engines been subjected too, but if it is in reasonable shape and was stored even close to correctly, the marvel mystery oil in the upper cylinders, new spark plugs and new coolant and fresh oil and a carb rebuild may be all thats needed. personally Id pull the oil pan and look closely at the lower engines condition., and rebuilding the carb if its been sitting that long is almost a given, but generally rings and bearings will have few if any bad effects from sitting for years PROVIDED they were covered in oil and not subjected to moisture, Id sure suggest pulling a couple main caps and inspecting at least the #3 & #4 main cap conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 8, 2008 Author Share Posted October 8, 2008 Grumpyvette I hope you can help me with this one (or at least confirm my suspicions). I just finished re-assembling my motor (350 small block I stepped up to some nice dart heads!). As I was filling the radiator with fluid I noticed a small leak coming from the back of my intake manifold (an Edelbrock Performer). I got out my torque wrench and followed the torquing pattern and re-torqued the intake manifold to 25lds. This seemed to stop the leaking. However as I went on filling my radiator I noticed that fluid was disappearing. I went ahead and opened the drain plug on my oil pan and found the fluid! To confirm that I still had some kind of leak I waited until the pan was dry, and then filled my radiator again. To my horror it began leaking again. Now I went hunting for the source of the problem I suspect/ed the intake manifold so I figured I'd try and rule out any other possible problems. So I started with the heads under the assumption that if they had fluid in them they would not be the culprit. So I removed my Temp sensor and I had fluid, ditto for the other side. I'm hoping that rules out the possibility of problems in the heads/head gaskets. After looking at the head gaskets Mr. Gasket #720-101B standard material (When Installed the gaskets I put a coat of gasket glue around all the water passage points both on the head and intake side) . I noticed that the ports around the water jackets have become moist and water soaked, they do not leak externally however they are visibly wet. Now, I am going to go out and buy some better intake manifold gaskets as I believe this is the problem? Is there any way that I can test my manifold itself for leaks? Am I on the right track/ any suggestions ?! ID suggest pulling the intake and filling the radiator and heads very carefully just to the point where the coolant level is at the lower edge of the coolant transfer port in the rear of the heads, then check for leakage in the oil pan, its not unusual to have NEW heads and head gaskets on an old block leak if the correct gaskets not used or the surfaces were not properly cleaned, you might also have a cracked head or block, so youll need to track down the source, not just assume its the intake manifold to head gasket area leaking (WHICH MIGHT BE TRUE) Ive seen mismatched gaskets with new heads leak frequently, you generally want to use the head gasket specified by the head manufacurer unless your sure exactly what your assembling, and have carefully checked for miss-matched coolant ports, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkach Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Thanks Grumpy ! Ill tear It down take a look and report my findings! My findings should be conclusive correct IE the pressure exerted on the gaskets/manifold under operating conditions shouldn't yield different results from the standing test correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkach Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Well I did some thinking and some calling, and the manufacture recommended some different head gaskets. So I went ahead and ordered them and a far superior intake manifold gasket. Its worth the extra hundred dollars for my piece of mind. At that changing head gaskets wont take that long! In the end grumpy thanks for pointing me in the right direction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarrisonTX Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Grumpy, Teach me about fuel pressue gauges. On my '79 malibu, with a hot 355, i have unknown fuel pressure. Im running an electric pump, through a regulator, that feeds a holley with a HP main body. I see some fuel pressue gauges mounted on the carb, only visible from the standing at a fender, and some mounted in-car or visible from in the drivers seat. Why do i need one (obviously to prevent fuel starvation i guess) Why do some people want to moniter it all the time and some under the hood.. Thanks grump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 most of the under hood gauges screw dirrectly into fuel rails or fuel line fittings and read dirrect pressure, they are used for tunning and trouble shooting, dirrect pressure while accurate does pose safety issues inside the cars cab so they use remote electric sensors and wiring to in cab dash gauges for safety reasons, (you don,t want fuel leaks inside the cars cab, especially durring a traffic accident, so get the remote dash gauges if its in the cab) you should own a DEALER SHOP MANUAL for your car,that will provide the ideal fuel pressure info, but generally youll want about 4.5-5.5 psi feed on carbs and about 40 psi on chevy tpi or lT1 injection systems read this first http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp Ive had 750hp cars with a single 1/2" inside dia fuel line loop from tank sump too pump too regulator and back as a return line that worked just fine BTW 1/2" inside dia. fuel line measures about 5/8"-3/4" outside, I buy mine from the local hydrolic supply house, SPECIFICALLY ask for HIGH TEMP,MID PRESSURE FUEL LINE with the metalic braided shield, 250-300F and 150PSI MINIMUM rated, measure VERY CAREFULLY then have them install the AN fittings with thier hydrolic press thats designed to do the job correctly, and don,t get it near, or install it near hot engine or exhaust parts ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS PUSH FUEL FAR MORE EFFICIENTLY THAN THEY PULL FUEL, so place the pump low and close to the fuel tank, but inside the frame for impact protection in accidents looks like this.... http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/SAE_100R5_General_Purpose_Truck_Hose_p/r5-hose.htm BTW THEY ALSO MAKE A SIMILAR FUEL LINE WITH STAINLESS BRAID on the outside http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_752578_-1_10019 look thru this link I provided http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp and just because youve installed a bigger dia. line and a better pump thats not the end of the deal, you can still have problems if the fittings and routing are less than ideal or the filters restrictive, the fitting most guys use cause a problem because the passages thru those fittings are to small and restrict flow ,that may or may not be the souce of your problem, you must install a return style fuel pressure regulator and a return line or the fuel flow rates won,t cool the electric fuel pump,but ID point out that fittings and routeing effect results, most guys don,t understand that the return line is designed too have and supposed too have nearly zero resistance too flow back to the tank, the factory line is marginal,and restrictive at best. and of to small a dia. on even the stock engine in my opinion, a 1/2" feed and a 3/8" minimum,or better yet a 1/2" return line would be a far more realistic match in a performance application, and be aware that the cheaper fittings have smaller internal passages, adding a 3/8" return like does little good if a fitting in that line has a 1/4" or 3/16" internal passage like some do! it does very little good to run a 1/2" fuel feed and return line and hook it up to the factory 3/8" or 1/4" fittings at the factory tank , if the flow gets restricted at any point youll see problems HERES ONE SOURCE OF FITTINGS http://www.holley.com/division/Earls.asp#21 http://www.holley.com/types/Ultra-Flex%20Hose%20Ends%20(standard%20length%20nut).asp generally when Ive added a sump to a tank Ive used a steady flush of CO2 to fill the tank and make it totally inert if I had doubts, but several flushes with hot water with some dishwashing soap mix generally removes the vapors/residue. then after your done welding, just let it dry out in the hot sun with the air compressor flushing the interior. keep in mind youll be drilling 4-6 holes in the tank and welding the sump over the holes so fuel dropping thru the holes is trapped in the sump under high G loads, you DON,T want to cut one huge hole it weakens the tank and makes it far more flexiable, btw if your not 100% sure all the pin holes in the weld seam are filled you can silver solder over the welds, or get cheap and dirty and use J&B epoxy as an exterior sealer, use something like this http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Auto-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Kit-P88C38.aspx?UserID=1045409&SessionID=PoOgOUlfTTIo3wZCT7yV to seal crud inside the tank naturally if your bucks up, you avoid the work buy purchasing a aluminum fuel cell, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D293220%2DS&N=700+115&autoview=sku keep in mind its does little good to run larger 1/2" lines in a high hp application and then install fittings or filters ETC. with internal passages significantly smaller than the 1/2" lines feeding them. Ive seen many installs where decent line size was rendered nearly useless with fittings or filters of significantly smaller internal dia. rendering the line size almost inmaterial to the flow restriction the fitting pressented to the flow of fuel a 1/2" fittings with 5/16" internal passages effectively make a 1/2" like flow at a 5/16" line rate I can assure you fittings like these restrict flow rates more than CORRECTLY SELLECTED and SIZED /MATCHED FITTINGS LIKE THESE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarrisonTX Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Thanks grumpy. Im trackin with you, about the fuel gauge in the car. I know that is dangerous. I would mount it right in front of the windsheild on the outside if i was going to keep an eye on it. A DEALER SHOP MANUAL is a little behind me. The 355 i built has a forged bottom end, brodix aluminum heads, and a nice loapy solid cam. Im running the stock (3/8 id) steel fuel line. I chose to run that, rather than my route my own because the stock steel one is ran in the frame. I do not have a return line yet, which im sure is why my Holley Blue pump burned up within 200 miles. The pump is mounted on outside of the spare tire well, protected by the frame. Thanks for the info grump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest curiousZbuild Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 you are an animal, i guess i wont know what transmission till i commit to a certain car. still in the process of finding the right candidate so i will get back to you by the way.. is your name bill "grumpy" jenkins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 you are an animal, i guess i wont know what transmission till i commit to a certain car. still in the process of finding the right candidate so i will get back to you by the way.. is your name bill "grumpy" jenkins? NO!, IVE met bill jenkins but thats not me! "GRUMPYVETTE", is a contraction, or NICKNAME, based on my wife always bitching about my attitude over the years, if Im under the corvette working and she calls me to do some darn silly thing like answer the phone while Im under the car, as in (WHY ARE YOU SO DAMN GRUMPY EVERY TIME YOU HAVE TO GET OUT FROM UNDER THE HOOD OR OUT FROM UNDER THE CAR (CORVETTEs) are what I usually work on)shes told more than one person over the years ("OLD GRUMPYVETTES UNDER THE CAR,ILL HAVE HIM CALL YOU WHEN HE GETS OUT OF THE SHOP!") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest curiousZbuild Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 hahah.. i was sittin on the porcilean throne reading through hot rod and i came across grumpy jenkins.. had to ask. hahah.. old grumpyvette, ive got the same deal with my old mom (i think it goes for all women), i just give her the stink eye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Grumpy, I know the blocks just came out not too long ago, but have you heard anything on the Dart SHP block? I'd like to see what kind of horsepower some guys are pushing them too. Dart says 600 but they have to hold more than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 http://gallery.barrymorrison.com/albums/userpics/10001/SHP_Brochure-1v2a.pdf http://www.dartshp.com/shpassemblies.html http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/1029740/10002/-1/10719 AT $1456 there not CHEAP but they a certainly a BARGIN compared to putting $1000 in machine work into a 35 plus year old chevy block thats noware near as stong and very likely to be rusted internally and one that might have cracks and at $1000 less than thier full race block its a deal for a street/strip engine combo http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/1064093/10002/-1/10719 whats the differance? its got a bit less machine work, its not quite as thick and its got less nickle in the casting, and theres less options "from CNC BLOCKS New Dart Shp Block (pics) Finally got one of the new SHP block in from Dart, So far I have measured the lifter bores and they measure .8443 no taper, The center main cap came with no washer under the head of the bolt. I disassembled the mains caps cleaned caps and hardware and relubed the washers and the bolts with CMD-3 and retorqued and the rear main cap was 2.6407 the 3 center caps were 2.641 and front cap is 2.6408 as this will have to be addressed with a line hone. I noticed the freeze plug holes on the sides of the blocks are chamfered and the freeze plug holes in the front and rear and cam plug are not chamfered. It does look like the cam tunnel can be machined for BBC and 50MM cam tunnel with no issues. " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Are any of the hoses from http://www.discounthydraulichose.com..._p/r5-hose.htm suitable for fuel injection applications? I want to re-plumb my FI lines from the stock Z tank to the LT1 (3/8" supply at the fuel rail and 5/16" return, I have the Aeromotive LT1 rail mounted FPR, Mallory 110FI fuel pump, and two inline fuel filters, a Holly 162-517 100 Micron with -8 AN fittings and a Earls 230106 35 Micron with -6 AN fittings Since my restrictions are the stock 280Z fittings at the tank and the 5/16" return at the rail I think I will be ok with a -6 AN braided hose or one of those rubber type rated for FI? Thanks Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 your link doesn,t work for me, but thats not critical at all, if you ask the supplier in most cases they will know if the hose, lines they supply are compatable with current fuel, and at what pressures,but keep in mind current fuels have a bit of alcohol in many of the blends and hose that handles gas may not handle an alcohol blend /gas fuel long term...I see guys experiance leaks from degraded rubber/synthetic fuel lines that held up fine with just gas, far more frequently with todays fuel lines than in the past Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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