rdsk8ter Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 What IS IT,exactly that you are trying to accomplish and WHY?? I just have to combine a 1/2 fuel line to two 3/8 fuel lines, like the aeromotive tech suggested. They told me to run a Y where they all connect. I just didnt know that the T fitting would be ok. I am going to run off the pump a AN flairnut to 1/2 fuel line, then I will convert with AN fittings to a 1/2 flex line (braided) to a 1/2 npt (male fitting) into a T. Off the T I will use screw in adaptors to 3/8 line and hardpipe 3/8 line to the fuel rails it should work out good. Should I make either rail (one will be longer by about 6 inches hardpipe) a straight through shot and take the closer rail off the side or should I take the T and use the straight through section for the 3/8 tube and the side for the 1/2"? I wish I could come up with some pics to describe what im trying to do but I cant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 As long as the lines after the split are reasonably short and don,t leak it should be fine, the exact config. is not that important its just important that the internal passages are fairly non-restrictive to flow, and you use some flexiable line to account for engine movement in the correct location. If the main line from the tank to the pump and pump to spliter that almost reaches the engines a 1/2" line and only fairly short 3/8" lines are used, you should be ok. Where guys get into problems in most cases is use of fittings and connectors with passages that are 5/16" or even 1/4" internally, rather than the 3/8" or larger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
150plusZ Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Grumpyvette, im planning an engine build for my 73 240z. my goal is a motor that revs fast and tight. looking into a sbc 400 block with a 302 forged crank. any experience or knowledge would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 have a long talk with your engine builder but heres a rought idea, yeah, we USED to build similar combos MANY years back, now we build 3.5" or 3.75" stroke engines in those 400 blocks (377 displacement,0r 406 displacement because there noticably faster) youll need a manual trans, a 4.11- 4.56 rear gear to use the combo Grumpyvette, im planning an engine build for my 73 240z. my goal is a motor that revs fast and tight. looking into a sbc 400 block with a 302 forged crank. any experience or knowledge would be much appreciated. http://www.daymotorsports.com/product/1839/MAIN-BEARING-SPACERS KING BEARING SPACERS Part Number Description Price Qty Add EB-MB5224AM Chevy 350 to 400 Spacer $49.99 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/MAIN-BEARING-SPACERS-FOR-SandB-CHEVY-350-CRANK,533.html 400 sbc block/350 crank main bearing spacers heads like these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS%2D30300001&N=700+4294908216+115&autoview=sku intake like this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&autoview=sku theres also TRW MS3110P is the part number for a main bearing set to put a standard pre 1968 small journal (283, 265, sj327) crank into a medium journal (350) block you can use SCAT BRAND 6.25" rods PART # 2-350-6250-2100 6.250", 2.100" PIN, ARP 8740 Bolts. and these pistons http://www.kb-silvolite.com Part Number:KB763 a solid roller cam similar to this http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00552&x=37&y=13 you should easily support 450 plus hp and 7500 plus rpm, with the short stroke version, but use a 3.5"-3.75" stroke and bigger heads and 500-550 plus hp and a bunch more torque is available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
150plusZ Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 thanks for the info grumpy. any experience with this combo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
150plusZ Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 i like the longer 625 rods. the crank i was looking at had 350 main journals so bearing spacers look good. how will that affect engine life? it will be a track car so will see 6k-8k most of the time. also would like to stick with 400 block for a few extra cubes. im somewhat new at engine building have one 400hp 355 under my belt but what could be done about lightening up the rotating assembly. using lighter pistons and rods would allow for some weight to be shaved off the crank i would think. thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 http://www.ohiocrank.com/home.html ID have these guys build it but ID use the new DART BLOCK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
150plusZ Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 looking for a 4speed. car will be lightened considerably so hoping the trade off of cubes for snappy rpms work. i know cubic inches ultimately are better its just a personal liking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 This is what I came up with what do you think? There will be 1/2 flex hose feeding it right at this connector (that is open). Here is the pressure regulator I know I still need a bracket to hold it. I'm waiting to get some more sheet aluminum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 are those 3/8" Inside Dia. hard lines or 3/8" Outside Dia. hard lines? youll probably be fine either way, but the 3/8" ID would be superior btw GENERALLY you feed fuel dirrectly into the rear of one side fuel rail,(GENERALLY PASS SIDE) run a connector accross the front of the intake to the opposite drivers side fuel rail and install a connector at that point to the fuel pressure regulator mounted at the rear of the drivers side fuel rail that connect to the return line. http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10265.pdf http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10265.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 are those 3/8" Inside Dia. hard lines or 3/8" Outside Dia. hard lines?youll probably be fine either way, but the 3/8" ID would be superior btw GENERALLY you feed fuel dirrectly into the rear of one side fuel rail,(GENERALLY PASS SIDE) run a connector accross the front of the intake to the opposite drivers side fuel rail and install a connector at that point to the fuel pressure regulator mounted at the rear of the drivers side fuel rail that connect to the return line. this is what I did first then aeromotive said you dont want it that way that this is the way they way it for even flow. the lines are 3/8 id witch made it hell to flair because the flairing tool my father has is ment for 3/8 od lol o well they flaired nice and should work out great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 The advantage of doing it the way I stated, above and the way HOLLEY RECOMMENDS is a constant fresh flow of fuel feeds the injectors ,any water or air trapped in the lines gets cycled rapidly back to the tank for a repeat trip, where in theory the filters trap it there, the dual feed route at least in theory allows water or air to remain trapped in the fuel rails circular routing that supplies the injectors much longer, as the main exit routes the injectors, themselfs, yes in theory the dual feed supplys both ends of the fuel rails , but thats seldom if ever been the advantage it seems, at first, since the exact same volume is available with either route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 hey I found a set of afr heads at a killer price almost brand spanking new. there currently on a chevy 400 I will be putting them on a 350 not my question I had the tpi before now the valve covers have 4 bolts around the outside mine have 4 down the center will they work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 probably , but youll need an adapter for the valve covers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NAL%2D24502540&N=700+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 hey grumpy the guy im buying the heads from is asking if i need 3/8 studs or 7/16 do you happen to know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 IF your buying USED HEADS why are the rocker studs not included and if they are not, why were they removed? ID suggest you call call AIR FLOW RESEARCH 661-257-8124 http://www.airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php (notice 3/8") http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php (notice 7/16") but the 7/16" studs would be my preferance, but not necessarly what was installed, as 3/8" is comon, or what fit the heads or your rockers, or rocker stud girdle, if you need to buy new studs, and lock nuts and rockers, etc.but since you didn,t tell me WHICH heads or how old they are or part numbers ETC... I can only guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 IF your buying USED HEADS why are the rocker studs not included and if they are not, why were they removed? ID suggest you call call AIR FLOW RESEARCH 661-257-8124 http://www.airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php (notice 3/8") http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php (notice 7/16") but the 7/16" studs would be my preferance, but not necessarly what was installed, as 3/8" is comon, or what fit the heads or your rockers, or rocker stud girdle, if you need to buy new studs, and lock nuts and rockers, etc.but since you didn,t tell me WHICH heads or how old they are or part numbers ETC... I can only guess they are he is asking me if I want the 3/8 studs or the 7/16 in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 if youve currently got roller rockers NOW, the rocker studs need to match,the holes in the rocker piviot bars,or roller axles the rockers rotate on, if your still going to buy them yet, the 7/16" are slightly stronger, but the 3/8" are more comon, your choice, but if you intend on running the engine hard get a matching rocker stud girdle that matches the stud spacing and adjustment nut size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 if youve currently got roller rockers NOW, the rocker studs need to match,the holes in the rocker piviot bars,or roller axles the rockers rotate on, if your still going to buy them yet, the 7/16" are slightly stronger, but the 3/8" are more comon, your choice, but if you intend on running the engine hard get a matching rocker stud girdle that matches the stud spacing and adjustment nut size cool cool I will get the 7/16 I always want to go a little stronger. thanks grumpy Oh yea is there anything you dont know about lol seems you know alittle about alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 cool cool I will get the 7/16 I always want to go a little stronger. thanks grumpy Oh yea is there anything you dont know about lol seems you know alittle about alot yeah! IM IN NEED OF ALOT MORE INFO ON HOW TO DEAL WITH WOMEN AND HOW TO MAKE MONEY FROM HOME! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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