lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 Here is a Z related question and I know it has been asked before but here goes. How do you connect the Tilton clutch master to the 93 Trans Am T56 Slave and once connected, how is it blead since there is no bleed screw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 I went and bought the aluminum not plastic slave cylinder for the T5, it bolts right up and has the bleed screw. I think it was like $35 from AutoZone, only thing I had problems was that it has the damm GM push on and pin hose fitting, I had to locate the AN fitting adaptor and then ran braided hose to the Tilton. I can get the part #'s I have them in a spreadsheet at work. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 Greg, thanks. I'll be waiting for those part numbers when you get a chance. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete84 Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 I've searched high and low, but no luck. How tall is a LT1 motor or a L98 TPI engine? Top of intake plenum to bottom of oilpan, Vette or F body? And how deep are the stop oil pans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 19, 2008 Author Share Posted December 19, 2008 a stock, TPI intake stands almost exactly 8.74" above the blocks forward wall top edge between the cylinders, the stealth ram is at 10.1" tall. the LT1 intake is at least 1.75 inches lower than the TPI. Most performancecarb intakes fall in the 8"-10" tall range, while obviously tunnel rams can easily be 16"-18" or more. Most oil pans extend a LEAST 7" below the oil pan rails and 8"-9" even 10" deep oil pan sumps are comon in stock oil pans http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 What msd will be my best bang for the buck. SCAT Crank Balanced 4340 Forged Rotating Assembly Forged/Flat Top Pistons (trying to swap to dished) Internal Balance Bore Size 4.030'' 6.000'' Rod 3.750'' Stroke 383 Cubic Inch 2-Pc Rear Seal DART SB-Chevy Iron Eagle Platinum Series Cylinder Head, 2.08'' Int/1.60'' Exh 1.550'' Springs, 195lbs @ 1.900'' .690'' Max Lift Angle Plug Weiand Stealth Ram EFI Intake Manifolds Idle to 6500 RPM Two piece design features short individual runners & a large upper plenum No EGR provisions D shaped runners promote high flow rates without turbulence. Dual 58mm throttlebody a1000 fuel pump A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulators mega squirtII MSD 8.5mm plug wires borg warner s 400 turbo Aiming for about 600hp at the wheels Also not sure what distributor i should run with this setup. I know I need the smallcap but havent looked much seence then. I found a good deal on a MSD6 AL box and wiring for 140$. He bought it and couldnt run it in his race class. Would this work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 19, 2008 Author Share Posted December 19, 2008 http://www.msdignition.com/pdf_catalog/2008_catalog_69-111.pdf'>http://www.msdignition.com/pdf_catalog/2008_catalog_69-111.pdf MSD Ignition El Paso, TX 915/855-7123 http://www.msdignition.com rather than rebuild your old and probably well worn chevy distributor you might want to look into upgrading to a new ball bearing shaft distibutor with modern electronics and a matched ignition. http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3206 PROVIDED its not defective if your buying it used? the reason I point that out is theres a few total slimeballs that sell burnt out components at swap meets, so your almost always better off buying ignition components that are NEW rather than used. the MSD 6AL ignition is just fine for most street/strip application when matched with the correct components http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Analog/6420_-_MSD-6AL_Ignition_Control_with_Rev_Control.aspx http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Analog/6420_-_MSD-6AL_Ignition_Control_with_Rev_Control.aspx http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Distributors/Chevrolet/Ready-to-Run/E-Curve/8360_-_Chevy_V8_with_Internal_Module_Distributor.aspx http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D79226&N=700+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 Is there any obvious way to tell if its deffective? PROVIDED its not defective the MSD 6AL ignitionis just fine for most street/strip application when matched with the correct components http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Analog/6420_-_MSD-6AL_Ignition_Control_with_Rev_Control.aspx http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Analog/6420_-_MSD-6AL_Ignition_Control_with_Rev_Control.aspx http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Distributors/Chevrolet/Ready-to-Run/E-Curve/8360_-_Chevy_V8_with_Internal_Module_Distributor.aspx http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D79226&N=700+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 19, 2008 Author Share Posted December 19, 2008 Is there any obvious way to tell if its deffective? http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3206 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 cool cool he also says he will buy it back if theres a problem with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 Hi, This is what I entered in my spreadsheet GM/BW/Tremec Slave clutch cylinder( Metal T5 from autozone) Pre 93 F body $44.94 Carshopinc.com GM hydraulic to -3AN adapter fitting (Russel 640281) $26.69 Summit 50" -3AN braided clutch line hose $30.00 If i go through the receipts I might be able to find the slave part number but I found it on the web site, got the number, called the local and picked it up. search their sight for 92-87 F-body (Camaro/Firebird) it is there. Thanks, Greg Greg, thanks. I'll be waiting for those part numbers when you get a chance.Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 Greg, Thanks for the numbers and here is the result. Auto zone had the 92 Camaro slave Part #10380 (metal) price $59.99. They also had a composite one for $53.99 but interestingly it did not have a bleed screw. Carshopinc.com had the -3 conversion fittings, 640281, 2 for $19.95 plus $10 for shipping, ouch. Tilton Master from AASCO (714-758-8500) $100. They build parts for race cars and build the race cars themselves. Porches. I bought the 75-875U because it is shorter and will not require moving the Winshield washer tank whereas the 74-875 would have. 875 = 7/8" bore. They both have the same stroke 1 1/8". The braided steel line I will get I hope from a place here in southern California called "The Hoseman". I understand that they make every kind of Hydralic hose you can imagine, once I decide on the correct length. Probably about $30 or so. So for about $210-220 I should be able to disengage the clutch. And all I thought I needed was a master? I could save $60 if I could learn how to bleed the existing Camaro Slave since it doen't have a bleed screw. Any Ideas on how this can be done? Thanks for all the help. It costs a few bucks but at least I believe it will work as it should. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Bench bleed the Camaro slave by hand, bleed master and line together, keep line above master and connect to slave and then install slave. Also try the other parts stores, $59 sounds high, Advanced, Pep boys etc. The metal one has the bleeder. Better deal that I got on the adaptors. MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET THE PIN THAT SECURES THE GM CONNECTOR, YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO TRACK ONE OF THOSE DOWN!!!!! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-rib-73-240z Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 THE ISK-201274 would be my choice, the extra .040 lift (.490 vs .450) usually means more than the couple of degrees in durration, in fact adding 1.6:1 ratio rockers would boost the lift to .522 lift IF youve got the clearances necessary Back to this post as i had a thought recently, i might be moving to eather la or sacromento for school, and i was wondering with this cam would idle be a huge problem? With the 108 lobe sep and all? I wanted to be carbed for a while so i can learn to tune the old school way, but with gridlock and all being in the future would you sugest going aftermarket tpi or the like? (summit Weiand 7542 ) Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 2, 2009 Author Share Posted January 2, 2009 that isky cam will work decent with a carb and manual trans in traffic ,and produce good hp, but if your going to TPI style intake with its lower rpm band and efi sensors youll want a milder cam on a wider lsa like a crane 114132 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-rib-73-240z Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 ok thats just the info i was wondering on, what cfm would you advise for the carb? because id really rather have a carbed motor for a while i have always wanted to learn how to tune a carb. i think it would be a fun experience. Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 ok thats just the info i was wondering on, what cfm would you advise for the carb? because id really rather have a carbed motor for a while i have always wanted to learn how to tune a carb. i think it would be a fun experience. Thomas a 700cfm-750cfm HOLLEY OR DEMON CARB is usually the best performance choice on a SBC thats a street/strip combo, but a 750cfm-850cfm can be used very effectively on more radical combos, carb size is NOT nearly a critical as some guys pretend, the, displacement, heads,cam,compression and headers used, will effect results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Grumpy, I've got a problem that is stumping me. I raced my car the other night and then parked it, after it sat for 20 minutes I went to start it and it sounded like it was missing bad so I shut it off. A while later I started it back up and it ran fine so I loaded it back up on the trailer and took it home where it sat for 3 weeks. I then fired it up and it ran fine so off I went to go run around with some friends. I went to start it again and it sounded like crap, making noise in the valve train. I decided to limp it home after it wouldn't clear up. After driving a mile or two it went away and ran fine. I checked the wires, plugs, etc. and they are fine. I pulled the valve covers because it sounds like stuck valve or one out of adjustment but found nothing. Any idea's? It's a sbc 385, carbed, with a hyd. billet small base roller cam, new Comp mag. lifters, new comp springs and Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers. Heads are AFR 210 Eliminators. Oil pressure is great, running temp is great. Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 If you were local Id suggest you bring it over, here to check it out. my first wild guess (THERES DARN LITTLE INFO TO WORK WITH) is that its either a carb float level or fuel pressure problem or a stuck needle & seat issue, possiably a intermitant vacume leak. mechanical problems generally only get worse , once they occure, if its clearing up, its generally moisture in the ignition a loose ground or carb related, all clean up at times with heat or cooling from the engine, temp. but carb issues can get worse after the engine sits a bit and cooks with engine heat and fuel drains or over flows from that heat, into the intake and plugs foul,then clear as more heat and air flow tend to clear out the excess fuel in the engine, and burn the plugs clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdsk8ter Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Grumpy, I've got a problem that is stumping me. I raced my car the other night and then parked it, after it sat for 20 minutes I went to start it and it sounded like it was missing bad so I shut it off. A while later I started it back up and it ran fine so I loaded it back up on the trailer and took it home where it sat for 3 weeks. I then fired it up and it ran fine so off I went to go run around with some friends. I went to start it again and it sounded like crap, making noise in the valve train. I decided to limp it home after it wouldn't clear up. After driving a mile or two it went away and ran fine. I checked the wires, plugs, etc. and they are fine. I pulled the valve covers because it sounds like stuck valve or one out of adjustment but found nothing. Any idea's? It's a sbc 385, carbed, with a hyd. billet small base roller cam, new Comp mag. lifters, new comp springs and Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers. Heads are AFR 210 Eliminators. Oil pressure is great, running temp is great. Thanks, Mike Im not sure if its the same but I had a problem like this once ended up being the pickup coil take a hair dryer and heta it up befor you start it see if it still does it. Also whens the last time you checked you needle and seat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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