Mikelly Posted April 13, 2000 Share Posted April 13, 2000 Oil. That wonderful golden colored stuff we change every XXXX miles to keep our bearings and other moving parts cool, wet, and lubricated....Sounds like the beginning of a harlequin novel! Oil systems have come a long way since the beginning, and along the way many myths have come about. Oil coolers, oil filters, heat exchangers, oil temperature in a given engine, design of different oil pans, accumulators, and the gizmos we put in them and our blocks all contribute to happy solutions or tremendous headaches! What is the absolute best thing you can do for your oiling system? Biggest bang for the buck? Depends on the engine and who you ask.... My current engine has all the oil journals screened. I had the internal block etched and painted, and all journals were de-burred and radioused, as well as the crank Journals. My Oil Pan is a Milodon "T" sump pan with windage tray, crank scrapper, baffels, and trap doors placed around the oil pickup. I use a Milodon Hi volume pump and pickup. The pan is a 7 quart pan. I relocated the the oil filter to in front of the radiator core support, mounted on the frame rail that the bumper struts would be afixed to. I used a 1/8th inch piece of aluminum for a mount for the filter relocation mount, and I have 8AN lines running from the block up to that location. I use a Canton Mecca Billet filter housing and 8 Micron filter elements. This location puts the filter out front and allows for a cool filtration of all oil that passes through the filter. Hanging off the Filter relocation mount is a line that runs to a Canton Meccu Accusump Accumulator with an electric "Pre-Lube" valve. The unit is a two quart unit that holds 80PSI and will automatically dump two quarts into the pan if pressure drops below 10psi. I have a toggle switch wired at the cage (Morosso 5 switch cage mount box with Starter Button) that allows me to pre-lube the engine before ignition... I usually have 20-30 PSI running through the block before I ever start it up. This reading comes from my Autometer Mechanical oil pressure gauge nestled in to the dash. This system has prooven to be very usefull, keeping the oil temps cool, and the lubricant circulating properly! I will switch to Synthetic Moble 1 oil at the 3000 mile mark! I'm a big fan of synthetic motor oil.... Some folks use Dry Sump Systems, of which I have no experience... Hopefully we can get some of the engineer types to also chime in on the oil Temp issue! What works best, why, and for which motors.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 13, 2000 Share Posted April 13, 2000 Hummm,, well way back when, I was an oil king in the u.s. navy, I tested all the fuel and oil that came on board my air craft carrier. At this time I was still racing motocross and cross country, the oil issue was going strong then as well.With that said I tested all the brands of motor oil I could get my hands on. keep in mind this was 23 years ago , so the only synth oil I could test was Klotz and Mobil 1. KLOTZ won that battle hands down , but petro based oils came in a little closer. But for overall protection against thermal viscosity dilution castrol GTX was the leader in all catigories. It seperated later than all other brands that I tested. It burned at a much higer temp than anything else I test. Now here is the shocker, pennsoil was second from the bottom of the list. big suprise to me , since I was a faithfull penns user. needless to say I switched to castrol GTX, and have been there ever since. Just my personal view, with very old testing to back me up. But I havent had a lubricant related failier in any of my motorized toys since then. 2 cents worth,,, Tony ------------------ 74 260, early 350,K.B.pistons,edelbrock manifold,carb,and cam,202 cast iron heads.Let the transformation begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 13, 2000 Share Posted April 13, 2000 Little related story, I was racing a porche in my old 65 442 olds hitting 6500 in top gear when I noticed the oil pressure needle bouncing on zero! I pulled it over and without turning it off, ran to my trunk for the ever present spare quarts(cans back then)There were none. But I did have a jug of 90 wt gear oil. In it went, pegged my pressure gauge. Made it home and filled 'er up. Engine lasted me another year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 13, 2000 Share Posted April 13, 2000 Related question: has anyone installed an oil cooler and if so what results did they get, i.e. did the temp drop and/or oil pressure increase accordingly? I know it should but I'm curious to hear actual experience. As per other posts I'm going thru overheating blues and am considering all options/combinations.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RON JONES Posted April 14, 2000 Share Posted April 14, 2000 Mike,nice oiling setup you have.As far as synthethic goes,ROYAL PURPLE seems to be the way to go from what I hear(for raceing anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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