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Custom Fiberglass parts, the flatter the better


thnikkamax

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I'm another one of those folks who also works in the aircraft industry and we're slooooooow right now.. to the point where i'm considering making vacuum forming tools during night shift for small plastic parts if the demand is there.. I'm already working on a foam tool to make Lexan shells for those RC Drift cars.

 

Hell, we already have the lumber to make the friggin molds.. and as I started typing this it was 3PM with everyone gone home for the day... all these 5-axis, vacuum form, and layup machines just sittin here... hmmm.. haha (i'm here til 5:30.. salary.. sucks)

 

Anyway, I need to make a flat wing and a flat front splitter for myself, but would love a template if anyone has one. I have that Xenon air dam with the brake cooling ducts, and a 240Z if you have a template for the rear wing similar to the one below...

 

I really want to make a rear wing similar to this:

469134675_aac17c09ac.jpg

 

Found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=761135&postcount=2

 

To keep it fair for myself and for those who will actually buy, I will only make things that I will use for myself so I'd have a product to show before taking money. And no CF, I don't want to hijack the projects from those other guys that are also in the process of making custom parts.

 

For the fiberglass I'll check how many layers we can start with, it will be oven cured prepreg that we buy in bulk so the price will not include materials & labor as much as it will include how many 12-packs i'll need to buy for every person that knows i'm doing this.

 

I just had them make me a flat 14.5" x 5.5" panel from nomex honeycomb layered in between the prepreg for my armrest (they potted in inserts that took the same screws it came with) .. that plywood that comes in there completely cracked to hell. Anyone interested in those? I had our tedlar ladies glue the leather onto it instead of stapling it back like original.

 

Here's of what I'm thinking of making for myself:

1. Armrest panel (done, glued cushion back on instead of stapling)

2. Flat rear wing

3. Front splitter, but entertaining the idea of the smaller 2pc instead of 1pc (like here http://www.mfdhk.com/newitems/size_2/UNIVERSAL_SPLITTER.JPG)

4. Paintable visors, or visor covers that can utilize existing hardware

5. Plastic 240Z center console shroud with opening angled to fit a screen and stereo below it (I'll make swappable attachments that can be used for gauges, switches, or maybe just a blank panel you can use to do your own cutouts.. i already have a prototype using a cut up stock panel but i want to do it right and make a vacuum formed shroud out of .090 thick material)

6....

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How about formed lexan windows!!!! use 3/16" high impact lexan.

A simplified rear hatch.

Pantera hatch

A cowl-induction carby pan to fit the various cowl-induction hoods.

bottom splitter that covers entire bottom fmro the airdam to the front crossmember.

radiator splash pan replicas

fiberglass doors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

^^^^^^~~~~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!~~~~^^^^^^^

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Ive got a template for the front splitter. I have the template but havent decided on what material to make it from..

 

I saw from the other thread that you sent it over to the CF guys. I think I'm going to stay away from large items at first. I'll let you know if I ever decide to go with the large 1pc splitter. Our machine shop is getting slow too, but not slow enough yet to sneak in custom projects.

 

 

How about formed lexan windows!!!! use 3/16" high impact lexan.

A simplified rear hatch.

Pantera hatch

A cowl-induction carby pan to fit the various cowl-induction hoods.

bottom splitter that covers entire bottom fmro the airdam to the front crossmember.

radiator splash pan replicas

fiberglass doors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

^^^^^^~~~~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!~~~~^^^^^^^

 

The windows seem easy, but the thickest lexan we have a ton of is .125 thk. Doors, hatches and hoods are too big for our vacuum formed machines :-(

 

And the splitter, as I responded to Challenger above, I want to stay away from that huge one for now. I def am aiming for a thick plastic angled at the edges.. 2pcs so they can be small enough to ship easily. These would obviously be more cosmetic than functional (if at all), but that's why I'd go the plastic route because fiberglass or cf down there can make a person queezy.

 

 

I really like the armrest and the center console proposals.

 

A splitter/full bellypan would be AWESOME!

 

Fiberglass body panels would be pretty crazy too.

 

Armrest is done so that can be the first to start producing once I figure out a price. I'll post a pic of it and let you guys decide what it's worth to you. See above for the splitter and large items. I'd love to, but I think those are too ambitious for now. I see the demand so it will stay in consideration.

 

The center console will probably be the first vacuum form item to get produced.. I'll post pics later of my mockup. The hardest part of it is since it's angles inward towards the bottom then it's tough to make a straight face of it. The vacuum draw is no problem, I'm just wondering if it will have to sink in so much that it will be too deep inward.

 

I'll post pics of that prototype towards the end of the day, but as is would leave the stereo opening in tact, and would require ommission of A/C & heat system. I don't have A/C or heat in my Z so this is why I made it this way.

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The center console will probably be the first vacuum form item to get produced.. I'll post pics later of my mockup. The hardest part of it is since it's angles inward towards the bottom then it's tough to make a straight face of it. The vacuum draw is no problem, I'm just wondering if it will have to sink in so much that it will be too deep inward.

 

I'll post pics of that prototype towards the end of the day, but as is would leave the stereo opening in tact, and would require ommission of A/C & heat system. I don't have A/C or heat in my Z so this is why I made it this way.

Make the console with a/c and heat.. and im interested

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UPDATES:

 

1) The visors are a no go.. hat a set of extras and it would require you to send me your hardware so that I could re-do them.

 

2) Center Controls Console - Vacuum forming tooling is still in the works, we're making a mahogany tool instead of aluminum. This means that the finished part MAY have some tool lines in it (from the wood segments), but at least they'll be straight lines so it won't look that bad.. plus I found material with texture that matches the interior!!! A/C will definitely be ommitted. I can only make 1 tool, that is all I'm being allowed to waste time with.

 

3) SCCA Legit Flat Adjustable Spoiler - YUP, it's adjustable now! I'm making my own adjustment rod assembly with brackets that will also be adjustable (up and down movement) when attaching to the spoiler. This is so you can mount the brackets on your car (almost any car I hope), then adjust the spoiler vertically until it sits where you want on the car. How do I compensate for the curvature of cars??? Simple, a thin rubber lip about 2" bonded (not screwed or riveted) to the bottom of the spoiler so you get a clean mount without gaps on the ends. You'll need to cut out a semi-circle to clear the hatch button. Sketches coming soon!

 

Now, the spoiler is the project I'm most excited about, and I've spent enough time that I know I'm going to AT LEAST make one for myself for sure. If i don't reproduce it, I will release component part numbers, drawings, and dimensions for you guys to make your own. I do want to mass produce if it's a truly universal spoiler application though.

 

Current Spoiler Details:

* 0.1875" Thick Kydex Plastic Spoiler. The melting point for the 0.125" material is 160 degrees farenheit. This should stand up better to the heat but I will have it on my car a few weeks in the heat to see how it reacts.

* (4) Vertical brackets to support the height of the spoiler to prevent a lot of flex. 4 locations is better than 3 in case you're mounting this over a center brake light strip,

* Face of spoiler is currently up in the air... see below...

 

NEED YOUR HELP:

 

I am about ready to order my components for the adjuster rods.. I don't want to buy something that's already out there because I have a huge budget here at work, and a McMaster-Carr account :-)

 

That being said, the SPOILER HEIGHT can be dictated by the min/max lengths of the adjustment rods. I am using right/left threaded connecting rods so the wing can be adjusted without removal.. only monkey wrench needed.

 

I have two options:

A) Adjustment rod assembly is 4.8" at shortest, and 5.8" at tallest, Spoiler face is 6.5"

B) Adjustment rod assy is 6.8" at shortest, and 7.8" at tallest. Spoiler face is 8.5"

 

I don't want to overhang the spoiler too much from where the brackets end up the vertical. The adjustment rods look prettier on the taller version lol... but I remember the 7" Spoiler fuss from the wind tunnel tests topic posted to this site. I guess I can make it 7" and leave 1.2" overhang.

 

F-it.. I'll R&D both...

 

Here's my inspiration:

http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn83/240Z2NV/Other/?action=view&current=SpoilerBrace1.jpg

 

Thanks to speedgato, and 240Z2NV's pics

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UPDATE 2:

 

Yeah...... the custom adjustment bolts I was making, priced out to about $40ea for stainless steel (multiply by 4.. haha) but understandable because they were all aircraft grade aluminum, and pivot ball joints were used... so i'd rather get the cheaper looking turnbuckles for $2ea or less as seen in the pic with the Pontiac.. I'm going with the closed ones though, and then i'll send them out to get powdercoated or anodized a certain color to give them some coolness points.

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